Thread: Ryobi router on RTA300 sub-plate; cutters aren't fully exposed above table

Originally Posted by tryingitathome

Scratching my head here... first time attempting to use the RTA300 router table. (Got it mounted on an old Mk3 workcentre stand/table.)


I have a big ole Ryobi plunge router mounted to the sub-plate -- locked at full depth and oriented diagonally, as per the Instruction Manual. However, when I insert a bit, I can see the cutters aren't fully exposed above the table slot.

It seems a lot of "extra distance" is created by the sub-plate and the rubber plate spacers, but methinks user error given my novice-ness-ness.


Any ideas what could be going on here? I searched this forum to see whether what I'm encouring is a common issue, but couldn't find anything.

A photo would help, but you don't really need the sub-plate for a non-Triton router.

That seems odd, I don't remember having that problem with a makita mounted on the sub plate

if the ryobi has a removable plastic base plate you could probably gain about 5mm by taking it off

as mentioned a photo would be a great help

Hodgo

Not sure how thick the "sub-plate" is that you are using, but that is probably your problem.

I have a home made router table set-up using an old Ryobi 1600W plunge router (and a Supercheap Auto router lift) - I bought a Kreg table insert and have bolted the base of the router directly to that, lowered it into the table and bolted the plate down into the table - and I have no problems with getting enough height to expose the full length of cutters above the table / insert plate.

IMG_2505.jpg IMG_2508.jpg IMG_2507.jpg

Thank you.

I removed the plastic baseplate from the router as suggested. I also found this between the sub-plate and the mounting plate (i.e. the piece that goes into the RTA300 table top):

20221220_130635.jpg

I have no idea what it is, but removing it and the plastic baseplate from the router itself made a difference. I'm 99% sure the cutter was fully exposed above the table. I say "99%" because, unfortunately, I have a different problem now... ***sigh***

After doing a couple of test cuts, I tried changing the bit only to find the adaptor sleeve (1/2" >>> 1/4") is stuck inside the collet... I had to wrestle the existing bit out and I can't get another one in.

20221220_162743.jpg

I have no idea how to get it out without (most likely) doing damage! I've searched the interwebz this way and that, but can't find a solution to that specific issue. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by BMKal

Not sure how thick the "sub-plate" is that you are using, but that is probably your problem.

Yep, clearly it is. I'll double-check in the morning, but I don't think my Ryobi will attach directly to the table insert for the RTA300. I suppose I could drill my own holes in the sheet metal table insert and counter-sink them with one of those turnip-shaped bits. ?????

Originally Posted by BMKal

Supercheap Auto router lift

Gold! I love it.

It sure is a killer trying to push that router back up to full "depth" from under the table. I figured there must be some kind of solution for that et voila! a thing called a "router lift" that I'd never heard of before. I particularly like your $50 vs $500 dollar solution.

Is the 1/2" collet meant to be captive in the nut? By that I mean, as you undo the nut it pulls the collet up with it releasing the collet from the taper in the shaft.

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Is the 1/2" collet meant to be captive in the nut? By that I mean, as you undo the nut it pulls the collet up with it releasing the collet from the taper in the shaft.

I've only seen that setup on the triton, where the collet is captive in the nut, both 1//2 and 1/4

this looks the same as a makita where the 1/4 " collet slides inside the 1/2" and is tightened in place

The whole assy will probably have to be removed so the collet can be driven out , unless you can devise a slide hammer arrangement that will hook in behind the collet and pull it out, a soak with WD40 overnite might help too

good luck

Hodgo

Originally Posted by tryingitathome

Thank you.

I removed the plastic baseplate from the router as suggested. I also found this between the sub-plate and the mounting plate (i.e. the piece that goes into the RTA300 table top):

20221220_130635.jpg

I have no idea what it is, but removing it and the plastic baseplate from the router itself made a difference. I'm 99% sure the cutter was fully exposed above the table. I say "99%" because, unfortunately, I have a different problem now... ***sigh***

After doing a couple of test cuts, I tried changing the bit only to find the adaptor sleeve (1/2" >>> 1/4") is stuck inside the collet... I had to wrestle the existing bit out and I can't get another one in.

20221220_162743.jpg

I have no idea how to get it out without (most likely) doing damage! I've searched the interwebz this way and that, but can't find a solution to that specific issue. Any ideas?

The red circle is a spacer to stop the subplate from being compressed. It belongs there.

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Is the 1/2" collet meant to be captive in the nut? By that I mean, as you undo the nut it pulls the collet up with it releasing the collet from the taper in the shaft.

No - the collets are independent of the retaining nut on the Ryobi router, and they can be difficult to remove when you want to change them over. Once you have it out (and it took me some time to get mine out) - I remove the collet whenever not using the router and store both collets and the retaining nut with my router bits. This seems to keep the assembly cleaner and the collet usually will not stick after this. I never put any lubricant on collets or in the hole - this only attracts dust etc which will stick in there and cause you problems. Keep everything clean & dry.

To get the collet out - if you have compressed air in your shed, you can get a hand gun with various interchangeable rubber tips. One of these is about a 60 degree cone (about the same size as a 60 degree live centre on a lathe). I find that if I push this down into the centre of the stuck collet and hold it in place, then pull the trigger and give a full blast of air, the collet will usually pop out. If not, remove the retaining nut and tap around the top of the collet with a hammer and a decent size flat ended pin punch - that will hopefully break the bond of whatever is sticking in there - then compressed air after that if needed.

Originally Posted by Chrism3

The red circle is a spacer to stop the subplate from being compressed. It belongs there.

Thank you, Chrism3. I guessed as much, but it seemed to really push the plates apart a long way. I probably didn't have it seated correctly. I'll try again.

Originally Posted by BMKal

Once you have it out (and it took me some time to get mine out)

Well, that's some consolation, I guess!

Originally Posted by BMKal

I remove the collet whenever not using the router and store both collets and the retaining nut with my router bits. This seems to keep the assembly cleaner and the collet usually will not stick after this. I never put any lubricant on collets or in the hole - this only attracts dust etc which will stick in there and cause you problems. Keep everything clean & dry.

Sounds like good advice. Thank you.

Originally Posted by BMKal

if you have compressed air in your shed

I do. I've got a hand gun but probably not the type of head you mention. I'll try your recommendations as best I can anyway. Very helpful.

There's a notch in it that lines up with something.

Originally Posted by Chrism3

There's a notch in it that lines up with something.

Thanks. You're right. I put it back in.

This sleeve adaptor is doing my head in! I spent a chunk of time this afternoon trying to fish it out of the collet. I could feel myself scratching the bejesus out of it... (i'll have to buy another one)... and it's still stuck in there.

I'm completely at a loss. I'll try posting in the dedicated Routing forum. As for the original issue of whether the cutter will fully protrude through the table top, I can't double check until I can get another bit in there.


The design of the Triton table is clever but leaves me a little confused. I mean, the sub-plate with the four hold-downs is a terrific workaround if you can't bolt your router directly to the main plate. However, do you need a router with a "longer than average" plunge distance to compensate for the extra distance away from the plate? Or is it all about taking off the plastic baseplate on the router? I don't know whether routers have a "standard" plunge distance all/most manufacturers adhere to ????? -- and, if not, whether my router simply doesn't plunge as far as other routers. No idea.

I'm completely new to using routers and I really liked the look of the Triton router table (fence with hold-down fingers and dust extraction port, sliding or stationary side-pressure fingers, sliding or locked protractor). Also, I've been using the Triton Workcentre for a couple of years so the set up was familiar. Seemed like a good choice for a beginner, which is why I snapped it up at a garage sale for 50 bucks. I might have to modify the main plate, though, so that my non-Triton router can attach directly to it because losing 15mm or so means I'm not entirely sure whether the cutter fully clears the table and changing bits is an ordeal because the collet nut doesn't come up through the hole at full plunge. Urgh.