Thread: New top for MK3 - I can cut straight now!

Well done I like your recycling attitude instead of tossing the old and just going to buy a new one. Best of luck with the rest of the project.

Blackout

Ingenious, looks like you got it mastered.

I used it today to cut some laminated panels - 40mm thick hardwood/ 40mm repetition cuts. Normally each strip would come out sightly tapered and the whole triton would scuttle & jump with 2" Merbau but this time it did it perfectly. All the strips are parallel and the machine was very smooth to operate, I actually enjoyed using it and even look forward to using it again.

Professional...

geez - was it t hat hard, missionaryman?

you're looking totally wasted!

or did you just fall asleep in the corner?

that's Harry in the corner, used to be our youth group mascot but now he just keeps me company in the shed and helps me bounce ideas off him.

Well done MM looking for a Mark 3 to put router top on

cool idea with the saw table did you oh just read that you did zero tolerance

Hum Harry looks awfully familiar must have seen him hanging out round Sydney

Harry was once kidnapped & rescued in Parramatta Park one night, the rangers got involved...

Only problem is I can't use the router table any more, I might get an insert and fit it to the right of the saw, sell the router & jigsaw set up on ebay to fund the new insert.

G'Day MM,

Well done and simple idea.

How did you mount it onto the MKIII?

Cheers

Rod

Originally Posted by Rodt68

G'Day MM,

Well done and simple idea.

How did you mount it onto the MKIII?

Cheers

Rod

I just used 1/4" countersunk head bolts with a nut & spring washer on the bottom. It steadys the whole thing up really well but the problem is I have lost about 20mm of cutting depth. I the maximum cut depth with a 235mm blade is now only 40mm.

Originally Posted by missionaryman

I just used 1/4" countersunk head bolts with a nut & spring washer on the bottom. It steadys the whole thing up really well but the problem is I have lost about 20mm of cutting depth. I the maximum cut depth with a 235mm blade is now only 40mm.

I'll precede this with 3 notations

1) I have the height winder kit installed.
2) My saw NEVER comes off the Triton MK3, and NEVER gets used by hand.
3) I am only telling you what I have done.

When I made up the crosscut sled for my MK3 it was great, but cost 12mm on the max cut I could do (235mmm saw). So I removed the rotating saw guard, and fitted the saw with a 10" blade. Fits in the saw body fine, and recovered the lost cutting height. I know that at least a couple of the forum members have done the same thing.

Originally Posted by chrisb691

I'll precede this with 3 notations

1) I have the height winder kit installed.
2) My saw NEVER comes off the Triton MK3, and NEVER gets used by hand.
3) I am only telling you what I have done.

When I made up the crosscut sled for my MK3 it was great, but cost 12mm on the max cut I could do (235mmm saw). So I removed the rotating saw guard, and fitted the saw with a 10" blade. Fits in the saw body fine, and recovered the lost cutting height. I know that at least a couple of the forum members have done the same thing.

I remember seeing a thread about this and I was looking for it yesterday but couldn't find it, I'm going to do the same thing myself.

Do you use a saw stabilser in yours with the bigger blade?

Originally Posted by missionaryman

I remember seeing a thread about this and I was looking for it yesterday but couldn't find it, I'm going to do the same thing myself.

Do you use a saw stabilser in yours with the bigger blade?

I use the stabiliser, regardless of blade size. It's the motor weight that causes the slump, not the blade.

I'm going to get one soon, it's a necessity.