Thread: triton 2000 sawtable top

No, it's not normal. two possibilities come to mind. If you have the height winder fitted, the chassis may not be in the right position to allow the channel in the top to sit in the red plastic locator. You need to squat as you lower the top to see if this is the case.
Otherwise, it may be that you have not fully clicked the top holding tabs into position. If the top is not exactly in position this can happen. There are arrows in the top to show when it is properly located, and if the fixing tabs are fully in there should be no red showing.
Chris

Thanks Chris, I will check this arvo.
I have also found I am missing one of the saw alignment cams, but the saw seems to be pretty squared up.
Lyle.

Well I am blowed if I can figure out why the table top is loose. The lock tabs are fully inplace and the table top is correctly placed. But I can still lift the sides up and down by about 6mm.
Any ideas on how to fix? Anyone else had this problem?
I thinking of putting some bolts and spacers through the table top with wing nuts for easy removal.
Any thoughts.

When you say 6mm, are you having the top on with one side flush with the table, and the other side of the top extended to one side? Mine is currently in that position and even though I didn't believe I could move the top, I can.

However it does take a bit of pulling to lift the top on one side, when I do I would guess it moves up about 5mm give or take. This was in a dimly lit shed a few minutes ago. there is movement and it is most apparent when using the saw winder to the extreme height. When one winds the saw up to get maximum blade above the top, one can and does bend the table top a bit on one side. Standing at the switch end it's the left side that comes up.

I first noticed this when I did some cuts with maximum, and I mean maximum blade showing by really winding the saw up until it gets sort of hard to wind. After doing a number of cuts I realised one cut wasn't square looking. I checked, it was out, so were all of the others I had cut. Took me a bit to find out why, after lowering the winder a tiny bit I noticed the tabletop dropped down a tad, that is how I found out that the table top can and does move a bit.

There is play in the system as all of the saw is a series of aluminium sections and pressed metal with locating tabs. It is a sort of precision fit system, but the nature of the animal is that there are spaces to allow manufacturing plus and minus norms. When set up correctly, and they usually stay that way, plus minus 0.5mm is the norm if care is taken. As in any system, care must be taken for repeatable accurate results. It is not as good as a table saw like the saw stop we have at my men's shed, but it is more versatile. I can do more with the Triton than many think possible at my men's shed, depth of cut and the ability to place the blade at any angle other than 90º, is it's Achilles Heel.

I would suggest you take your saw chassis out, pop your top back on and check with the saw and it's chassis completely out. You may find there are some loose nuts and bolts somewhere. With your table top off, check the squareness of your chassis while you are there, this does make a difference.

If set up well the 2000 is a wonderful system, not cheap to purchase new any more, but a marvelous system with many of the accessories, especially the large sliding table, that sliding table is a dream to use and so versatile.

Mick.

I'll check mine in the morning, but I've never tried to lift it up and in practice I don't think it would affect anything even if I can.

Thanks for the replies.
My top is easy to lift either side. It doesn't come out as the lock tabs are in, it just lifts/tilts easily. I wish I could take a short video.

I am concerned that if cutting a strip off a wide-ish board it may tilt as I am sawing and jam or not cut correctly.

I am thinking of bolting it to the rails with countersunk bolts and wingnuts to facillitate security and ease of changeout to router table top. It'll need spacers between the top and the rails though.
Anyone done this?

Lyle.

I just checked mine (after all these years!) and found I can lift the right hand side perhaps 2.5mm, and the left hand side almost none.
When the fence is locked into position things are tighter still. There is no way in my view that the top could lift while in operation.
Chris

FWIW I just checked mine after having it since new.
Like Chrism3, very small play (not more than 3mm) on both sides. My table _seems_ to move around the locking pin furthest from the side I try to pull up. My guess would be most of the play comes from wear on the locking pins (or the locking pin holes in the frame).

Regards
SWK

Thanks, I will check the lock tabs and holes for wear.
Lyle.

Hi,
I have had no trouble when ripping but in cross-cut mode I found it was not cutting square, checked it out with a square a few times before I discovered I was putting too much weight on the corner when holding the job down, so modified my method and it cut square. What I am saying is that there seems to be a bit of play all round and one needs to be aware and compensate. Like the rattling fit of the protractor in the mitre tracks.
A real Titon user loves it for it's faults and idiosyncrasies and together they do some amazing work.
Yours in the hobby

Are the springs securely holding your locking tabs in place? They are quite strong, but can be dislodged.

Thanks for the replies and PMs.
The lock tabs are secure. The lock tab holes may be worn. So will check that out but they seem to be locking the tab OK.
Another area may be the assembly. I did not put it together but from a youtube video there doesn't seem to be much adjustment required.
But my table top seems to be not resting fully on the support underneath.
I have made a few cuts and it works OK, but... the looseness of the top bothers me.
Anal??? I don't know as I haven't seen another 2000 up close to see if it is the same.

Merry Christmas to all.
Lyle.

Lyle,
Compare the locking holes in the top frame with the locking holes in the crosscut frames, which have likely been used far less. That will give you an indication of any wear. Although the top is steel while the crosscut frames are aluminium, so i would have expected the steel to stand up to wear..
Chris

Rather than drilling holes and installing bolts, which rather defeats the easy dismantle & store feature, try using tapered shims between the rails and the top. You will have to check for 90 degree alignment but that should both tighten the fit between the tabs and slots as well as give you an extra set of bearing points.

If you find you need parts for your Triton several members have found a company in the UK to be the quickest and cheapest source of parts - have a look at some of the older posts about spare parts.