Thread: Triton router mounting

You should be able to unscrew the plastic base plate from the router and use it as a template to mark/drill the holes. Hope I'm understanding what it is you want to do!

Good luck

Thanks Hitch. I had used the base plate but the punch set I have is slightly loose. Probably the holes are metric so there is a little play. I found out that the hole pattern matches the Porter Cable 7518. Jessem says it's aprox. 4 1/16 so I'll go with that. Thanks again.

New to this forum and to Triton gear. Greetings all!

Are you happy with the mounting choice described above?

As of yesterday I own a 1/2" Triton Router (TRA001) and an RSA300 router stand. My router table is an older model that I purchased along with a second hand MK3 work center and so I find myself using a router slide plate which appears to be part RTA017 from the AJA150 kit. The L-shaped top clamps and wing nuts are missing so the best I could do was to securely bolt the U-shaped locater brackets in place to at least serve as guides for centering the router over the opening in the slide plate.

Before mounting the router for under table use, the two sets of black knobs, springs and coach bolts (that would normally secure the included fence plate to the router base) are removed in addition to removing the plunge spring.

I discovered that the nut and flat washer from a discarded bicycle brake pad exactly matches the thread on this coach bolt. Coincidentally the 10mm nut is an exact match to the ring spanner end of the collet spanner that comes included with the 1/2" Triton Router!

The router is placed over the center of the slide plate. The locater brackets keep it centered very nicely as the router is rotated in place until the two coach bolts can be passed upwards through prefab slots in the slider plate and continue through the base of the router. The coach bolts are secured using a flat washer and nut. Securely tighten with the collet spanner.

Since the mass of the router is considerably more than the fence plate and anticipating forces from torque, vibration and bumps - I was a little concerned that the integrated brass threads inside these black knobs might eventually separate from their plastic enclosures. So I decided to use a flat washer and nut to secure the coach bolt to the router base assembly.

1. The slide plate is not modified.
2. The plastic base plate remains in place on the router.
3. If an extra 3-4mm of plunge depth is needed then the option is there to remove the router's base plate before mounting.
4. One collet spanner conveniently serves a second purpose.
5. Mounting takes 3 to 5 minutes.

One day I hope to own a Router Raizer in which case I will have to drill a hole through the slide plate and router table. Until then however, I believe the fewer modifications the better.

enjoy!