Thread: Triton advice for newbie

Triton can be made accurate - just like your home built one can be made accurate. What is innacurate about your current home-made one?
(I'm a low hours Triton user, and now have an older cabinet-style table saw.... night and day.....)

I have a Mark 3 purchased new in 1983 - yes the design is 40 years old - but technology has moved on and there are better options now. All that thin pressed steel and equally light extruded components means that the Triton always flexes, and flex means inaccuracy. In one of their early VHF instruction tapes Triton boasts that the Mark 3 is accurate to one millimeter. Almost always I can get a better accuracy than that but almost any contractors saw will be far more accurate.

The Mark 3 also requires a lot of fiddly adjustment - a PIA - the later 2000 is much easier to use. But a dedicated saw bench is better.

[Now wait for the screams from the Triton evangelistos!]

PS: I still have and do use my Mark 3 for "bush carpentry".

I purchased my MKIII in the 80's as well, however I found a Triton 2000 with all the goodies and switched to that. If you are going Triton way, the 2000 is the only way to go. I know next to nothing about the compact table saw.

That said, I would suggest a 254mm contractor saw would be a far better alternative, one with a 305mm blade would be even better. Nothing at all wrong with Triton, I still use mine as it is all I have. But I would never suggest they are worth it these days unless you get one for an exceptionally good price; even then....................................

Mick.

seriously? there is no comparison Triton you are always adjusting, Ive had the old Mk111, the 2000 and now a Carbatec cabinet saw, yes sure more $$$ but the $$$ speaks for itself

How much space do you have? I actually have two Tritons plus most machines anyone could want but everything has to be mounted on wheels because my workshop is a 7m x 7m slab under the carport and everything is stored in the shed along with SWMBO’s car. Tiny space? I would definitely look for a 2000 series workcentre with all the goodies but I wouldn’t like to guess how often they come up for sale over your way. As Poundy says if you spend the time to set it up and align it properly the Triton is accurate. I spent 2 days setting up mine; never had to touch it since.

Have you considered a quality tracksaw instead, along with a cutting frame or stand that can cope with full 8 x 4 sheets? Before I bought the first Triton 17 years ago I used a cheap contractors saw (still have it actually!) and although I could cope with the inaccuracies the bigger PITA was that it really couldn’t cope with anything over 600mm wide or 1200mm long.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

..... As Poundy says if you spend the time to set it up and align it properly the Triton is accurate. I spent 2 days setting up mine; never had to touch it since.
.....

Two days at the mimum legal wage of $20 per hour equates to an investment of $320. Hardly a productive use of time.

And I am sure you are worth more than minimum wages, CT.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Two days at the mimum legal wage of $20 per hour equates to an investment of $320. Hardly a productive use of time.

And I am sure you are worth more than minimum wages, CT.

Ha; I couldn't afford to hire me for setting up my gear!

Nah; it took two days because I am anally retentive by nature and have had many years of experience setting up and aligning machinery to rather tiny tolerances. At the time I was making sure that every bit that was supposed to move was free to do so with zero snags and everything that wasn't supposed to move was solidly locked in the exact position it needed to be and doesn't impact anything else. Or move again. The proof of the pudding in this is that I've moved house four times since then (three of them interstate) and at the last three addresses it has had to be constantly moved between where it happened to be stored and where it needed to be used. The only bit that ever needs to be checked and occasionally tweaked is when I pull out the sliding extension and check that the slider is square to and level with the table; that is a consequence of the workcentre legs and the extension feet never being placed in the exact same spots on a concrete floor each time.

How accurate is it? Without doing a single check or test cut I can confidently state it's good enough for carpentry. For joinery purposes it's down at the bottom end of what you would want for cabinet work but that's fine for me because I refine with hand tools anyway. Contractors saws are designed for carpenters although I would imagine that at the upper end of the quality scale they give cheap table saws a run for their money.

But this is drifting away from the original thread. As I posted earlier a Series 2000 with most of the goodies may not come up too often around his neck of the woods so I feel it would probably be better to look at alternative solutions unless space really is a problem. Tritons fold up really small; it was probably their biggest selling point and really is the only reason I would recommend holding out for one and accepting no substitute.

A quality track saw, a quality chop saw and a cheap-ish contractors table saw can do pretty much anything you need it to. I made my first bookcase using just my cheap- contractors saw, a hand held circular saw, a cheap Chinese 1/4" router and a Kreg pocket hole jig. I still have it in the study...

G'day Dave,
There's a good Triton Club in Canberra in the ACT that may also be able to assist.
Cheers, crowie

TOCACT

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Two days at the mimum legal wage of $20 per hour equates to an investment of $320. Hardly a productive use of time.

And I am sure you are worth more than minimum wages, CT.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Ha; I couldn't afford to hire me for setting up my gear!
.....

How accurate is it? Without doing a single check or test cut I can confidently state it's good enough for carpentry. For joinery purposes it's down at the bottom end of what you would want for cabinet work but that's fine for me because I refine with hand tools anyway. Contractors saws are designed for carpenters although I would imagine that at the upper end of the quality scale they give cheap table saws a run for their money......

I did have my tongue just a little in my cheek when I posted above, CT.

We are pretty much on the same page. I interpreted the OPs' original statement "My current table saw, a home made one, isn't to bad but just not accurate enough." as indicating that he was equipping to work towards the joinery end of the woodworking spectrum, and that he was interested in repeatable accuracy.

I think the the Triton is incredibly important in the evolution of non-professional woodworking. I learned and developed so much doing so many things that I would never have attempted without the Triton. For so long - a Triton + a shooting board = accuracy. And the Triton was so chaep - mine cost $199 new, when the cheapest reasonable table saw was around $2,000.

But times change. Table saws now are not so expensive. Add the cost of a Triton plus the saw sliding jig plus a reasonable 235mm saw (Triton, Makita, whatever) and you are up around or above the cost of the saw bench, with a cast top.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

I think the the Triton is incredibly important in the evolution of non-professional woodworking. I learned and developed so much doing so many things that I would never have attempted without the Triton. For so long - a Triton + a shooting board = accuracy. And the Triton was so chaep - mine cost $199 new, when the cheapest reasonable table saw was around $2,000.

I have a Triton 2000 and it still gets used particularly with the sliding extension table. As far as accuracy goes, years ago I won a bet by slicing 1/10mm off the end of a short board. (done with smoke, mirrors and a home made micro-adjuster) It is what it is and I have done lots of things with it. It owes me nothing and is still giving.

If I was starting from scratch today I would not buy Triton. It has had it's day and it was a great day. When I bought the series 2000 a basic tablesaw was probably around $5000 and I bought heaps of Triton gear for far less than that. I sold on the router table a long time ago but the four multi-stands and two super-jaws are invaluable in my shed.

Best thing about Triton is that it was all the same colour, so when you smuggle in something new and the missus asks about it you can tell her you got it at the same time you got all the other orange stuff.

Good afternoon Big Dave

I have just taken delivery of a used Triton 2000 with the Maxi sliding frame. I decided to upgrade from my circa 1986 Mk3 series, as I wanted the sliding extension and that was what became available of Gumtree. But I have used my MK3 on and off since 1986 for everything from house renovations to making jewellery boxes (using an Incra Jig attachment). It's been bounced from Sydney to Cairns, back to Sydney and finally Brisbane and all it's ever needed is a bit of realignment using the original setup instructions. I'm about to hand over the MK3 to my son-in-law and I have to say it's a bit of a mental tussle to give it away. The secret to accuracy for me was getting a decent 9 1/4" saw with a 40 tooth blade. If you can find a MK3 with its extension table (different to the 2000 variant) get one. Otherwise the 2000 series (although more expensive) is another option - and it has more user friendly (but not necessarily mandatory) features. Either way you can't go wrong. Good luck. Bob

Just to point out that the sliding extension table also fits the Mk3.

For what it's worth, We have two Mark 3's one I bought in 1986, and put the 9-1/4" makita saw onto it. It's been a ripping bench ever since. Before I got a thicknesser, I used it for thicknessing, too.
A GOOD blade, and a sharp blade are the keys.
I picked up a 2nd hand Mk3 8 years ago with a Triton saw under it. It's handy having the two - you can set the fences for different widths during a project and know they're right.
I REALLY like the knee-kick off-switch.
I have 2 more Mk3s I bought cheaply, to make into permanent router tables. One is a permanent pattern-following bit machine.

But we also have a Carbatec 12" tablesaw. It's useful for being able to rip through 3' & 4" boards in one pass, just, but setting the riving knife properly is a pain. It had a 2hp motor that was gutless, so I bought a 3hp one and fitted it. Sharp blades are the key - and don't hit any nails.
The Mk3s are far more accurate than the big Carbatec.

I just wish it had a knee-press off-switch like the Tritons!

So after much reading and looking around, and taking into account I don't have a lot of space, I have bought this little gem for a song. Wish me luck .
Triton MK3.jpg