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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Roslin, Scotland
    Age
    69
    Posts
    67

    Default Triton saw arbor float?

    Hi all,
    this is my first post here, so please be gentle with me. I've had a WC2000 for about 9 months and been using a makita 190 mm saw with good results. It was a bit underpowered and the depth of cut was not great, so I 'upgraded' to the Triton Precision 235 mm saw partly from what I had read while lurking on this forum. I set it up last week and have been struggling ever since to get clean rip cuts or square cross cuts. I'm pretty sure everything is set up as per the manual. I had my Makita working really well but it was a pain to set up. The Triton saw, on the other hand, appeared to be much easier to set up. After a lot of swearing and fiddling I remembered that 'cheaper' saws sometimes suffer from arbor float so I checked my new Triton. If I grip the blade at the teeth and try to move it sideways I can feel it rock back and forth. I'm sure the blade is installed properly and everything is clean (it's a brand new saw) and tightened. If I take the blade off I don't feel any movement in the arbor. Any thoughts? Is it a dud saw or something in the blade instalation? I've contacted the guys at Triton Workshop Systems UK who I bought the saw from, and I'm just waiting on them getting back to me. In the meantime any suggestions would be very welcome. (sorry if I've rambled on a bit)

    cheers

    George

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    536

    Default Welcome!

    George,

    Welcome in from the cold world of lurking.

    Quick easy test for arbour float is to cut half way into a piece of wood and stop the saw. Measure the width of the cut. If it is more than 3mm, you have a problem.

    The problem may be arbour float, or it may be a dud blade. Dud blades happen more often than arbour float.

    There are three likely causes of arbour float from what I have found.

    First, naturally enough is the attachment of the blade to the saw.
    Second is the attachment of the "Jack Shaft" to the body of the saw.
    Third is a problem with the bearing or construction of the Jack Shaft.

    I have listed these in order of likelyhood.

    The 2 black flanges that go either side of the blade are a tight fit. You will need to be absolutly sure that they are fully home after tightening the bolt.

    You will also need to insure that the silver bush in the middle of the blade is fully home. If it is not, it can give you the feeling of the bolt being tight, when the flanges are not fully clamped.

    Assuming the blade is true and fully secure, the next possibility is that the jack shaft is not securely attached. (I have read about this once on this forum). To access the jack shaft, remove the blade and the black flange behind it. Next remove the saw safety guard. (Open and remove the circlip) You will see 2 Phillips head screws holding the Jack shaft in place. Befor removing them, give the jack shaft a feel. Any movement? Both screws should have a star washer underneath them to prevent the screws becoming loose. Check that the washers are there and the screws are tight.

    If all is OK, you can remove the Jack Shaft and try and test it for wobble. Wouldn't recommend this though. I have had damaged Jack Shafts come back (Through misuse) and out side the saw, you can hardly tell.

    The saw will be under warranty. If you have no luck with the above, the Triton boys in the UK will be more than happy to do what they can for you.

    Hope this helps.

    Steve

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Roslin, Scotland
    Age
    69
    Posts
    67

    Default

    Steve, thanks for your comments. When I bought the saw I also bought a 60 tooth Triton 'Professional' range blade. I get the same wobble with that blade installed. I sure the black flanges are seated ok and the adaptor bush in the centre of the blade is also installed ok. Incidentally, why do Triton only use a 16 mm arbor and thus need arbor adaptors, when most heavy duty circular saws have 30 mm arbors? As my saw is under warranty I won't dismantle anything, I'll just send it back.

    cheers

    George

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Roslin, Scotland
    Age
    69
    Posts
    67

    Default

    Just had Triton UK on the phone. They can't find a problem with my saw and are sending it back to me. Have I been doing something stupid when installing the blade to make things feel loose? I reckon I had the arbor adaptor installed correctly and the blade retaining bolt done up as tight as I could with the little spanner that comes with the saw. One thing the guy from Triton said was that the adaptor was unmarked and they thought that maybe I had forgotten to put it on (which I hadn't). I tried putting the adaptor in the central bore of the blade and then putting the blade in the saw. I also tried putting the blade in first, then putting on the adaptor and pressing it into the bore...it didn't make any difference either way. I didn't want to over-torque the arbor bolt so I only used the spanner provided. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?

    cheers

    George

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    If you are sure that you have no arbour movement without the blade, then somehow, something must be wrong with how the blade is being installed.

    Hopefully if that is the case, then Triton UK would have removed and replaced the blade to check things out, and it may now be right.
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


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