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Thread: Triton Saw Blade - Rust
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13th October 2005, 01:16 PM #1Novice
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Triton Saw Blade - Rust
Whilst changing my Triton saw from crosscut to rip mode on my trusty old Mk3, I noticed that rust has appeared on the blade, just below the hardened tip and the trailing edge [probably a more technical term for this] and wonder if it is normal for this to happen.
The saw has had reasonably regular use over the 12 months I've had it and have only just recently used it to precision [well almost] cut 140 separate 45 degree angles on 90 mm MDF skirting boards and wonder if it could be the glue in the MDF that has left a residue on the blade that looks like rust. I haven't left it outside or used it to cut damp timber.
I'm loathe to remove the blade and sit with it on my lap in front of TV and clean each tooth with glass paper or steel wool, as I'm sure SWMBO would soon banish me to the Garage. Question is, should I just forget about the rust [or glue] and hope it just eventually goes away with more regular use, or is there another way to remove it now to avoid possible pitting?
Ron
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13th October 2005 01:16 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th October 2005, 01:25 PM #2
Blade Cleaning
Don't scrape or scratch. Use spray on oven cleaner.....outside...... leave on for 10-15 minutes, wipe off and wash clean to remove all residue. Dry well.
Works a treat on all my blades.
Kev M
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13th October 2005, 02:49 PM #3Banned
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well if it is rust, it certainly isnt from lack of use!!
my recommendation is to spray it thoroughly with wd40 or similar, let it sit for half an hour and clean it with a hard toothbrush. wipe it clean then spray with wd40 again. this should fix it if its rust OR residue from the mdf. oven cleaner probably wont harm your blade but i beleive in not using such harsh treatment until a softer treatment proves ineffective.
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13th October 2005, 06:50 PM #4
the glue from mdf can and some times appear on a saw blade as rust,. but to make sure that it is the mdf and not actually rust i would suggest that you first clean the blade using vinegar this will reduce the chance of damaging the blade. this will also show if it is actully metal rust rather than just wood stain on the blade. if it does show as metal rust i would dispose of the blade and buy a new one. once you have cleaned the blade you will know if it is rust by the pitters in the blade.
cheers
al
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13th October 2005, 09:30 PM #5Banned
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well now we have Kevm recommending alkaline products and alspine recommending acid on the metal sawblade. well im sure that they will clean it but at what cost to the metals in the blade?
Maybe there are those out there in the forum who have a wider knowledge of metallurgy than i do, and if so i for one would welcome their input, but i would try less destructive methods first, as i said in my previous post
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13th October 2005, 09:51 PM #6
I'm with Doug.
I use WD40 straight after I use all my blades (TS, SCMS, BS CS etc etc) and router bits to ensure they don't get rusty.Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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13th October 2005, 10:56 PM #7Banned
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Originally Posted by doug the slug
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14th October 2005, 12:22 PM #8
your an unbelievable world of knowledge doug.
to think that the most versatile cleaning product known to man would destroy a metal blade thats incredible.
ho! and by the way, triton recommends that you DO NOT use wd40 on its products but rather a silicon lubricant.
but doug seem's to know more than the designers at triton.
al
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14th October 2005, 01:10 PM #9Originally Posted by alspine
I personally wouldn't let silicone lubricants any where near my workshop.
Growing old is much better than the alternative!
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14th October 2005, 01:32 PM #10
this is true sprog, george did use wd40, but that was many years ago.
remember that triton sells thousands of these w/c per year all over the world,
so after a period of time, dont you think that triton would have learn't something about what some of these luricants can and can not do,
I my self used wd40 until it was pointed out to me by a demostrater why they now use a silicon lubricate.
sounded good to me so now i use a silicon lubricant and i can now agree that the performance of my equipment has improved greatlly.
some will agree and some wont.
i guess we will just have to agree to disagree
al
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14th October 2005, 01:48 PM #11Originally Posted by alspine
Do the research yourself.
Silicone lubricants and finishing do not mix, you use it if you wish.
Growing old is much better than the alternative!
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14th October 2005, 06:02 PM #12Originally Posted by alspine
I'm wondering what you put on your fish 'n chips. :confused:If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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14th October 2005, 06:11 PM #13Deceased
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Originally Posted by Gumby
Peter.
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14th October 2005, 11:51 PM #14Banned
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Originally Posted by alspine
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15th October 2005, 12:04 AM #15Banned
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and by the way, Al, ive been trying for a while to post a few references to wd40 from the triton site but my computer locks up every time i try to post, but it is still listed on the site as being recommended for a variety of applications.
nothing i posted here is contrary to anything listed on the triton site. if you as a new triton domonstrator have more information on their products than i do then i suggest that you find a less abrasive way to convey them to the public than by belittling members of the forum who arent privy to the information you get as a demonstrator
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