Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 29
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    78
    Posts
    10

    Default Triton Saw Blade - Rust

    Whilst changing my Triton saw from crosscut to rip mode on my trusty old Mk3, I noticed that rust has appeared on the blade, just below the hardened tip and the trailing edge [probably a more technical term for this] and wonder if it is normal for this to happen.

    The saw has had reasonably regular use over the 12 months I've had it and have only just recently used it to precision [well almost] cut 140 separate 45 degree angles on 90 mm MDF skirting boards and wonder if it could be the glue in the MDF that has left a residue on the blade that looks like rust. I haven't left it outside or used it to cut damp timber.

    I'm loathe to remove the blade and sit with it on my lap in front of TV and clean each tooth with glass paper or steel wool, as I'm sure SWMBO would soon banish me to the Garage. Question is, should I just forget about the rust [or glue] and hope it just eventually goes away with more regular use, or is there another way to remove it now to avoid possible pitting?

    Ron

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Margate Tasmania
    Posts
    1,148

    Post Blade Cleaning

    Don't scrape or scratch. Use spray on oven cleaner.....outside...... leave on for 10-15 minutes, wipe off and wash clean to remove all residue. Dry well.

    Works a treat on all my blades.

    Kev M

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Default

    well if it is rust, it certainly isnt from lack of use!!

    my recommendation is to spray it thoroughly with wd40 or similar, let it sit for half an hour and clean it with a hard toothbrush. wipe it clean then spray with wd40 again. this should fix it if its rust OR residue from the mdf. oven cleaner probably wont harm your blade but i beleive in not using such harsh treatment until a softer treatment proves ineffective.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    qld
    Posts
    32

    Default

    the glue from mdf can and some times appear on a saw blade as rust,. but to make sure that it is the mdf and not actually rust i would suggest that you first clean the blade using vinegar this will reduce the chance of damaging the blade. this will also show if it is actully metal rust rather than just wood stain on the blade. if it does show as metal rust i would dispose of the blade and buy a new one. once you have cleaned the blade you will know if it is rust by the pitters in the blade.



    cheers

    al

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Default

    well now we have Kevm recommending alkaline products and alspine recommending acid on the metal sawblade. well im sure that they will clean it but at what cost to the metals in the blade?

    Maybe there are those out there in the forum who have a wider knowledge of metallurgy than i do, and if so i for one would welcome their input, but i would try less destructive methods first, as i said in my previous post

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Nerang Queensland
    Age
    66
    Posts
    10,766

    Default

    I'm with Doug.

    I use WD40 straight after I use all my blades (TS, SCMS, BS CS etc etc) and router bits to ensure they don't get rusty.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doug the slug
    spray it thoroughly with wd40 or similar, let it sit for half an hour and clean it with a hard toothbrush.
    OOps, one thing i forgot to mention before, and its important in this world of workplace health and safety, lawsuits etc, PLEASE make sure that if you do this you rinse the toothbrush thoroughly befroe cleaning your teeth with it

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    qld
    Posts
    32

    Default

    your an unbelievable world of knowledge doug.

    to think that the most versatile cleaning product known to man would destroy a metal blade thats incredible.

    ho! and by the way, triton recommends that you DO NOT use wd40 on its products but rather a silicon lubricant.

    but doug seem's to know more than the designers at triton.

    al

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,251

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alspine
    ho! and by the way, Triton recommends that you DO NOT use wd40 on its products but rather a silicon lubricant.

    but doug seems to know more than the designers at Triton.

    al
    Hmmm, I seem to remember George recommending and using WD40 and CRC in the videos!

    I personally wouldn't let silicone lubricants any where near my workshop.

    Growing old is much better than the alternative!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    qld
    Posts
    32

    Default

    this is true sprog, george did use wd40, but that was many years ago.
    remember that triton sells thousands of these w/c per year all over the world,
    so after a period of time, dont you think that triton would have learn't something about what some of these luricants can and can not do,
    I my self used wd40 until it was pointed out to me by a demostrater why they now use a silicon lubricate.
    sounded good to me so now i use a silicon lubricant and i can now agree that the performance of my equipment has improved greatlly.
    some will agree and some wont.
    i guess we will just have to agree to disagree

    al

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,251

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alspine
    this is true sprog, george did use wd40, but that was many years ago.
    I my self used wd40 until it was pointed out to me by a demostrater why they now use a silicon lubricate.

    al
    Just because a demonstrator said it, does not make it correct.
    Do the research yourself.
    Silicone lubricants and finishing do not mix, you use it if you wish.

    Growing old is much better than the alternative!

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
    Posts
    6,786

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alspine
    this is true sprog, george did use wd40, but that was many years ago.
    remember that triton sells thousands of these w/c per year all over the world,
    so after a period of time, dont you think that triton would have learn't something about what some of these luricants can and can not do,
    I my self used wd40 until it was pointed out to me by a demostrater why they now use a silicon lubricate.
    sounded good to me so now i use a silicon lubricant and i can now agree that the performance of my equipment has improved greatlly.
    some will agree and some wont.
    i guess we will just have to agree to disagree

    al
    Vinegar on a saw blade ?
    I'm wondering what you put on your fish 'n chips. :confused:
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    ...
    Posts
    7,955

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gumby
    I'm wondering what you put on your fish 'n chips. :confused:
    I'll have lemon juice on the fish and mayo and a touch of mustard with the chips please Gumby.


    Peter.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alspine
    your an unbelievable world of knowledge doug.

    to think that the most versatile cleaning product known to man would destroy a metal blade thats incredible.

    ho! and by the way, triton recommends that you DO NOT use wd40 on its products but rather a silicon lubricant.

    but doug seem's to know more than the designers at triton.

    al
    Al after the first line you lost me

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Default

    and by the way, Al, ive been trying for a while to post a few references to wd40 from the triton site but my computer locks up every time i try to post, but it is still listed on the site as being recommended for a variety of applications.

    nothing i posted here is contrary to anything listed on the triton site. if you as a new triton domonstrator have more information on their products than i do then i suggest that you find a less abrasive way to convey them to the public than by belittling members of the forum who arent privy to the information you get as a demonstrator

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Choosing saw blade for Triton
    By Bodgy in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 8th September 2005, 11:30 AM
  2. Triton, here I come.... I think...
    By Giesse in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 41
    Last Post: 27th May 2003, 08:52 PM
  3. Triton saw blade
    By damai in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 4th December 2001, 08:49 PM
  4. Triton Saw Blade
    By FrankN in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 7th June 2000, 09:42 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •