Thread: TRITON DUSK MASK RELEASED!

Aw, c'mon Eastie - I've been waiting for your input.

I've got nothing else to do since I broke my last needle...


Johnno2

I am curious as to whether the neck cloth has an effect upon the filtration rating of the respirator. If the neck cloth is breathable fabric doesn't that mean that dust particles can permeate it? Wouldn't that mean that regardless of the rating of the filter the overall rating would be governed by the lowest standard item utilised? Hence the respirator would be P1 regardless of how good the filter was rated?

Anyone more knowledgeable out there who can shed some light on this?

The whole point of the "cloth" is that is decreases the exit points for the air supplied via the filters, causing a positive pressure to exist inside the helmet. I don't think you will find that the "breathable" nature of the fabric is anything compared to the massive hole at the bottom for your neck! (Irrespective of the drawcord).

Thanks Stu, that puts things into perspective for me as to the role of the neck cloth in assisting positive pressure being maintained.

Is it fair to suggest that the whole mask/helmet thingie is going to work the best when the drawcord is really really tight?

The directions state that the drawstring should be as tight as a dress shirt collar. Allow about a finger width space between the drawstring and neck.

The fit needs to let air out – if it did not, one’s head would implode, and you can imagine the mess that would be to clean up.

For all you Perth people, I just got my Triton Respirator from Stillitanos Home Hardware, Alexander Drive, Mallaga, for $235. Ordered it yesterday collected it just a while ago.
They always give great prices, give them a go.
I have no connection with them, just like their service.

Hopefully I can answer at least some of the question re filter efficiency, however I still haven’t had the time to put pen to paper in an effort to make plain english of the standards involved. Perhaps I will put do that in the near future?


Firstly, a couple of terms:

'Micrometre' -(µm) (micron) represents one thousandth of a millimetre. A strand of human hair is approximately 50 µm in diameter.

‘PAPR’ - Powered air-purifying respirator—a device incorporating a half facepiece, full facepiece or head covering which provides the wearer with air passed through a powered filtering unit, comprising one or more filters, and an electrically operated blower unit.

Particulate filter - a filter which removes finely divided solids or liquid matter from the air to be inhaled by the wearer.

Particulate Filter Classes
· Class P1
· Class P2
· Class P3


TESTING (irrelevant but may answer some questions)

An aerosol of solid sodium chloride (salt) is generated from a solution of pure sodium chloride in distilled water. This aerosol contains particles mainly within the size range 0.02 µm to 2µm equivalent diameter and has a mass median particle diameter of approximately 0.3 to 0.6 µm. The aerosol is dispersed in an air stream of sufficient volume and passed onto the filter, which is attached to a machine that simulates breathing.

How filters are rated is determined not by the size of particles they will capture, but on how much “breakthrough” occurs – or in other words how much of the sodium chloride is in the air that passes through the filter. During testing the air that passes through the filters is monitored, with accurate determinations in the range <0.001% to 100% filter penetration measurable. Thus they can tell if a minute amount or 100% of the solution passed through the filter.

Particulate filters used with a PAPR when tested in accordance with Australian Standards must not show breakthrough:

(a) Class PAPR- P1 . . . . . not more than 5%.
(b) Class PAPR- P2 . . . . . not more than 1%.
(c) Class PAPR- P3 . . . . . not more than 0.05%.

This tells us something about them, but not that much really – especially in relation to how to ensure the filters you use will be protecting you. This is where it gets messy – very messy. When looking at the above table keep in mind that P3 is designed for highly toxic environments and for use with full face respirators.

All I will say for now is that half face respirators, including disposable masks and replaceable filter types offer significantly less protection than PAPR with a head covering.

I hope this provides some answers. As I said above, when I get time I'll look at putting pen to paper to give you a better understanding as I find it an interesting topic (I'm sick - I know .

Best wishes,
Mark

Greetings to the land that invented the orange woodworking widow maker,

I've had my Triton for about 18 months now - Triton 2000 + Triton saw. It is so good to be able to own a piece of gear this good, that would cost 3 times as much if it was on a cast iron table.
About your respirator...
I've got the Trend Airshield - got it for half price from a charitable trust. I thought it was a good bit of kit, until one day I used it for 4 hours straight on my Record DML24 lathe. The lathe is far too low for myself - I will make a stand for it one day, and with the weight of the Trend Airshield, after 4 hours I could not straighten at all. Took 2 days off work to recover. And all Trend could do was tell me that the Trend was "the best product that they had seen" and completely ignored my suggestion that they should warn people to only use the Airshield when working without inclining the head.
Looking at the Trtion resp, it looks like most of the weight is shifted away from the helmet. Does anyone have any experience to compare whether there would be less neck strain on the Triton than on the Trend, when working with head inclined, like on a lathe?
Cheers

Snedger you have answered your own question. To make yourself comfortable while working you should have all equipment at good working levels. If as you say your lathe is too low then you only have yourself to blame. All brands of masks Trend, Airlite, Triton will have a moderate amount of weight on your head making you nod slightly but if your lathe is too low then you create a further stoop and this will play merry hell with your neck and back.

Just out of interest, I have been using my mask now for 3 weeks or so (ok, on weekends), and still have not had to charge the battery. No idea how much actual operational time it has had- I turn it on when I need it.

Getting to like it more and more- I'm feeling a lot healthier after a full day- the dust was getting to me, despite my previous face mask.

I have made one mod to the helmet- HEAPS more velcro to hold the vent in place. I have a tendancy to take the helmet off without unclipping from the belt, and letting the helmet hang, or drape it over a shoulder, and it was pulling the vent loose. Don't have that trouble any more!

I have been using mine to do absolutely everything where dust is involved.

It is magic with my scroll saw, and I was sanding this afternoon and I even forgot that I had it on.

When you see the fine dust that routing MDF produces, I am thankful that my lungs are no longer the repository.

The only minor problem I have noted is that fine wood dust seems to be electrostatically attracted to the front of the shield - can the shield be de-sensitised?

Bob J

One thing that I have heard mixed reports about is a doohickey called and "ioniser". Apparently it negatively charges the air and is supposed to do two things, first to make you feel better (HUH?) and secondly it suposedly drops dust out of the air much more quickly.

I would imagine that means that it would be maily suited to use in the shed/workshop rather than open air, but then that is always a bad place to cut MDF anyway.... That stuff is nasty, causes bone cancer apparently, and does it where it settles, mostly inthe nasal passages. Bone cancer inthe brain box? Sure as heck thats going to be inopperable.

Anyway, so much for the rant... I dont know if these ioniser thingys work or not, but I wouldnt be trusting it, just take the MDF outside, use a dust mask and a decent extractions system.

Originally posted by bob.jager


The only minor problem I have noted is that fine wood dust seems to be electrostatically attracted to the front of the shield - can the shield be de-sensitised?

Bob J

Try the anti-static lens cleaners for glasses from an opticians.