Thread: Triton Planer Attachment - any thoughts?

Do somthing else

Do ANYTHING else!

Ray

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <woNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> I have one, came as part of a complete set of accessories for the 2000. Mine was second hand, but it came with an electric planer attached and was very well priced, that well priced you don’t wish to know.

For doing melamine edges and stuff like that, I would think a router is probably a far superior tool for the job. It is what I use.

For dimensioning timber, yep will do that, but you will be restricted to the width of your planer blades, which are probably about 75mm or so. Reversing the timber end for end to get a double cut, will effectively allow you to plane about 140mm to 150mm, you will have to be careful. It does work though! I have done this successfully before, it is fiddly to use, but if set up correctly, it is really good for many jobs, not brilliant, just good.

I have dimensioned timber quite successfully and having just had a new garage erected yesterday, the timber taken from the verandah to make room for the garage, will be dimensioned with my saw first, then the planer attachment.


The Triton is good as a single piece of equipment with very limited space and for someone like me who works around its limitations. If you have the accessories, and I have all of them, it is reasonably brilliant with what you can do.

I purchased all of my 2000 stuff, including the saw bench and router table along with the Triton saw and Triton router and every accessory made for the saw bench, all second hand in one hit.

If you are still contemplating the planer attachment, and/or any other attachment, be patient, be prepared to travel a bit, be prepared to act instantly, you should be rewarded with good stuff at a good price. That is how I got my stuff.

Mick.

I purchased a planer attachment when I bought my saw bench.

" I WISH I HAD SAVED MY MONEY". Useless for most applications.

Paul.

I have one sitting on a shelf, it not only didn't fit the planers I had, offest fence holes or too large, it's fiddly and a right bugger to set up.

Mine will end up on Ebay methinks.

Mate
Sell it sell it sell it

I was a triton demoer

Appreciate the feed back guys and will probably find other ways to achieve what I need, including getting my hand planing skills up for dimensioning timber.

Playing around on the weekend and with a Irwin 60T blade, the quality of cuts through melamine is much better than just belting a circular saw along freestlye. Still just a bit short of perfect though. I'll post a seperate thread to find out the best way to set up a router to clean the edges (I don't have the triton router table top, and undecided as to whether I will or not).

After reading this thread I decided to have another stab at setting up the planer and did so succesfully!!

I upended it, supported each side and just fiddled about with getting the rear and front shoes square, took no time at all, approx 3 hours .

Now it's going on ebay........

ONLY 3 HOURS.

@ $25.oo per hour, per set up. That makes the tool "WORTHLESS".

That's my opinion anyway.

I can't even be bothered to get mine off the shelf. If I knew how to work, FleeBay I would get rid of it.
I will just wait till some poor sucker comes along. I will issue warnings with the deal though.

Paul.

I was just reading this thread and thought I'd comment. I've got the planer attachment and do find it useful although initially I had set up my bosh planer (or tried to) and I couldn't get it square front and back so it was held at a skewed angle to the table, what a PITA. for some reason I went and bought an El Cheapo XU1 planer and this proved to be easier to set up probably less than 1 hour. Where I see the advantage is in planing square sides from rough sawn material albeit less than 70mm thickness. I find this next to impossible on the thicknesser which gives me parallelograms instead. So I tend to dress the edges on the Triton planer attachment after thicknessing and I end up with nice DAR stuff. Incidentally I find that all I need to do now is get the planer blade square to the Triton saw table each time I swing it up. It is a little heavy hanging off the side and tends to lift the opposite end of the table and the ripping fence is another PITA to adjust as I have not yet made the MDF fence guide recommended in the user manual.

I had the planer attachment for a number of years and it did a good job when set up correctly but suffered from the size of the blade of the planer that was being used. I would strongly suggest you use the $200, add another $150 and buy yourself a planer/thicknesser from any of the tools stores around Australia. I did and have not looked back and now can plane boards 12 inches wide.
Terry

Terry, Good advice although how do you plane the edge of a board 24 inches wide by 2 inches thick in a thicknesser? I don't think the planer attachment was ever intended to thickness boards as I think this is the misunderstanding a lot of people have. I have both a thicknesser and the triton planing attachment plus a spare Bosch hand held electric planer. The trouble with a thicknesser is that it planes parallel to the reference surface whereas the Triton attachment planes at 90degrees to the reference surface which in my opinion is an advantage and it can be very accurate. As accurate as you choose to adjust it. Anyway as an example , I had several metres of rough sawn 4x4 timber to make posts and handrails for my staircase. I dressed it on the thicknesser and found that it would simply follow the original out of square of the RS timber, no faces square and out by up to 5mm. I had dressed parallelograms, that was to be expected. I ordered 3x3 dressed beams for the hand rails and on checking they were out of square too because they where thicknessed not planed. I used the Triton planer attachment to get them square. I could have used the saw to rip them square then thickness each side again. That's not going to work with wide boards. I've seen people use the router sled in docking mode on the saw bench to thickness boards, very tedious but it does work but not perfectly or as cleanly as the dedicated thicknesser.

Originally Posted by terryvk6pq

I had the planer attachment for a number of years and it did a good job when set up correctly but suffered from the size of the blade of the planer that was being used. I would strongly suggest you use the $200, add another $150 and buy yourself a planer/thicknesser from any of the tools stores around Australia. I did and have not looked back and now can plane boards 12 inches wide.
Terry

There will always be jobs that your workshop equipment just won't be able to get around. Some jobs will need to outsourced like a 24x2 inch slab. I do all my jointing on the router now, but then I also have to make that first edge square first.
A jointer would be ideal but for the number of times I would use one, it's not worth the outlay.
Terry

I have one of these on my triton saw and just don't use it since I picked up at 15" Triton Thicknesser. I really should get rid of it.

I've got a good Makita electric plane attached to it which I could probably put to better use.

Craig