Thread: Triton TRA001 router died and fixed

Originally Posted by chubs

Hi all,
My triton tra001 router died the other day which was a shame (many pieces of timber had a reprieve in their death sentence). Did a bit of googling and found an extended review where some guy said his power switch had to be replaced within a year's use.

So... i pulled the router apart, and pulled the wires out of the back of the switch. There were two blue wires and two brown ones. Soldered these together neatly with a bit of heatshrink tubing, and she's as good as new! Except the switch does nothing now... which in my case is fine as the router is table mounted.

Lucky it wasn't the circuit board!

Just thought someone might be interested and be inspired to fix theirs rather than turfing it.

Gday Chubs

Any chance of the link. Could be very useful.

Here's the link, half way down is a picture of the switch they replaced:

One Year Later, Triton Router TRC-001 Review

I realise the review is for the smaller triton router but i assume they share the same switch.

Thanks chubs

Originally Posted by chubs

I realise the review is for the smaller triton router but i assume they share the same switch.

No, the review you linked relates to the larger unit, but in the US 110V version.

TRA001 is 220/240V
TRC001 is 110/120V
MOF001 is the 1400 W unit (code does not appear to change between 110 and 240 V units)

Although you have bypassed the switch assembly, it will still mechanically influence the spindle lock mechanism for above table bit changing, but there is the possibility to have the switch in the OFF position, fully elevate the motor engaging the spindle lock, and then apply power from the external switch.

If this sequence ever does occur be assured that mayhem will occur, the least nasty outcome being smoke release and a permanently dead router, the worst being mechanical failure of the collet housing or spindle lock components, resulting in the failed components being flung around the room with great force.

Ah-ha, so it was the same version.
Yeah, i thought about the danger of it being turn-onnable while being all the way up, and i figure i'll just be careful. I can't really imagine the motor having the torque at zero RPM to rip out the spindle lock, i mean the torque i apply to the spanner when undoing the collet when it's jammed tight has to be right up there. I'd assume it'd burn the motor first.
BUT you have a good point! I'll be careful. Still, pretty stoked that i don't need to go buy a replacement.

Universal motors (i.e routers etc) produce their maximum torque when stalled, it's what gets them going and what helps the smoke and smell escape. Its also possible to weaken shaft lock mechanisms through extended use, particularly if you load them up in use. This could render them more prone to disintegration in a spindle locked power up situation.

Originally Posted by chubs

Just thought someone might be interested and be inspired to fix theirs rather than turfing it.

Yes, indeed - and well done chubs for getting the result you wanted.

This may not need saying, especially after some of the previous posts, but if you've now got thoughts about bypassing the switch for convenience, please think again.

chubs knew what he was doing and that it would compromise safety (inasmuch as the power switch/bit changing mechanical lockout could be over-ridden). If, after a bit change and with the spindle lock still engaged, the motor would probably suffer a catastrophic failure if started, rather than break the spindle lock.

In addition, it would be possible to adjust the bit height, either with the motor running or not, to such a position that it would slightly engage with the spindle lock. This would probably render the spindle lock ineffective by rounding off the indent edges or the lock itself.

Whilst the modification has worked for chubs, please bear in mind all possible ramifications if you're considering doing it for any other reason.

Ray

Remind me NEVER to into this guys workshop