Thread: USA style router collet for Triton

$400 for a Triton router is a bargain, compared to teh $500+ some pay on ebay

Hi Guys
I was entering in the prize draw on STU'S site until I won This on ebay!
There is SOOOOO much difference in the performance of the routers now that I wish I'd had these before suffering all the original trauma's of damaging work pieces because of projectile bits, not the least of the damage was a VERY expensive piece of Ebony I had almost finished working on
I know I paid too much for it but to me it is the very best thing I have managed to get as I chased all over the world before this one came up on ebay.

Bob

The guy is now selling them at $125 'buy it now'

Originally Posted by blackhole

The guy is now selling them at $125 'buy it now'

Might it be the fact that CMT is selling the big triton router with the US Collet assembly. Should be possible to order the collect from CMT as spare part in near future I would think (hope!)

I have a TRA001 router bought in UK with a 1/2" collet.
I was hoping to get the 12 mm through the CMT spares, but collets are different.
Triton chuck is a one piece, male that goes into the collet, while CMT are like DeWalt or others that have a two piece assembly (although you cannot disassemble them, unlike DeWalt that has a nut and a collet that can come apart).
Shame...
Alberto

Originally Posted by blackhole

The guy is now selling them at $125 'buy it now'

Based on comments about CMT not being compatible I splurged and bought one of these. Seems everyone who has one no matter how much they paid or did not pay vouches for how good they are.

Cheers
Jason

Jason, could you please provide some feedback as soon as you get to test the collet?
Regards
Les

Originally Posted by AlbertoA

I have a TRA001 router bought in UK with a 1/2" collet.
I was hoping to get the 12 mm through the CMT spares, but collets are different.
Triton chuck is a one piece, male that goes into the collet, while CMT are like DeWalt or others that have a two piece assembly (although you cannot disassemble them, unlike DeWalt that has a nut and a collet that can come apart).
Shame...
Alberto

Alberto, The UK/Ausie versions of the router have a collet assembly as you describe, ie one piece collet and nut. However the US version has a different DeWalt style chuck assembly. Some of the US style units have made it Australia and are being purchased and retrofitted to local units. This is the origin of this thread. The US chuck assembly consists of a body, and seperate 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch collet and nut assemblies, and is supposedly easy to retrofit to the TRA001.

I have also recently noted on the forums that CMT has released a router very similar to the TRA001 except that the power rating is 2000W instead of 2400W. From what you have said above, you would like a direct 12mm collet for your TRA001. I suspect that the CMT collet might either fit the US style collet system, or that alternatively the CMT chuck assembly might also fit the TRA001. Obviously not as cheap as simply buying and using the collet, but possibly a viable solution for you.

Originally Posted by malb

The US chuck assembly consists of a body, and seperate 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch collet and nut assemblies, and is supposedly easy to retrofit to the TRA001.

In case anyone needs to know how to do the retrofit on the TRA001, here's the process for you:

1) Remove the dust shrouds, if still fitted.
2) Completely remove both carbon motor brushes, noting their position and orientation for replacement.
3) Wind a suitable piece of string or light cord around the motor shaft so that when you pull it, it will revolve the shaft in the opposite direction to that of normal travel (see the arrow that indicates normal rotation on the base of the router for confirmation). **
4) Pull the string or cord just as you would to start a gyroscope and when the shaft is spinning, swiftly push in the spindle lock by hand. The shock should release and unwind the collet chuck assembly. If it didn't, spin the shaft faster.
5) Replace the collet chuck with the new style, winding on the upper part (with the three indent holes) as tight as you can by hand.
N.B: Do NOT try to tighten the whole assembly by using the wrench on an empty collet.
6) Plunge the router and mount a straight cutter in the ½" collet.
7) Replace the carbon brushes in their original orientation and fire up the router. Plunge the bit into a piece of scrap hardwood to ensure final tightening of the assembly.
8) Replace the dust shrouds if you use them.

** If you have an airline, you can use this instead of the string or cord. Just point it at the cooling fan (at step 3) above) to spin the shaft backwards. Don't go mad with the speed of rotation!

HTH

Ray

Originally Posted by lesmeyer

Jason, could you please provide some feedback as soon as you get to test the collet?
Regards
Les

Will do, might take me a while as I have to build a router table first

Thanks... in the end I sold my UK Triton router and bought a new CMT... I have a good number of 12mm router bits, but someone who is "starting" can use a 1/2" and buy bits of this size, that is the case of the friend I sold it to.
So, the CMT7 (Triton like) collet and nut (De Walt style!) is selling in Europe for 15€ (well discounted!)... If you need to know any measurment of it please let me know as I can take it for you to know if it is compatible with the routers you have, it will be a pleasure!
Alberto

Originally Posted by AlbertoA

So, the CMT7 (Triton like) collet and nut (De Walt style!) is selling in Europe for 15€ (well discounted!)...

Just to make it clear, the female collet nut itself, with the internal shoulders, will not fit the TRA. It is the whole collet chuck assembly that is needed for a retro-fit, including the outer shaft adapter (with the three indents machined into it).

If anyone is in any doubt, I'll put up some photos if it would assit? HTH

Ray

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

In case anyone needs to know how to do the retrofit on the TRA001, here's the process for you:

1) Remove the dust shrouds, if still fitted.
2) Completely remove both carbon motor brushes, noting their position and orientation for replacement.
3) Wind a suitable piece of string or light cord around the motor shaft so that when you pull it, it will revolve the shaft in the opposite direction to that of normal travel (see the arrow that indicates normal rotation on the base of the router for confirmation). **
4) Pull the string or cord just as you would to start a gyroscope and when the shaft is spinning, swiftly push in the spindle lock by hand. The shock should release and unwind the collet chuck assembly. If it didn't, spin the shaft faster.
5) Replace the collet chuck with the new style, winding on the upper part (with the three indent holes) as tight as you can by hand.
N.B: Do NOT try to tighten the whole assembly by using the wrench on an empty collet.
6) Plunge the router and mount a straight cutter in the ½" collet.
7) Replace the carbon brushes in their original orientation and fire up the router. Plunge the bit into a piece of scrap hardwood to ensure final tightening of the assembly.
8) Replace the dust shrouds if you use them.

** If you have an airline, you can use this instead of the string or cord. Just point it at the cooling fan (at step 3) above) to spin the shaft backwards. Don't go mad with the speed of rotation!

HTH

Ray

ALso on refitting the new collett you can reverse the dismantling proceedure with the string going in the reverse direction but this should be done several times to make sure the base is tight enough.
A FURTHER WARNING ON USING AIR TO SPIN THE SHAFT!!!!!!
Dont use too much air to spin the shaft too fast !! as this can cause premature bearing failure.
Bob

I took a picture of the CMT7 collets and "mount", than one of the Triton UK...
So, can the whole "chuck mount" be removed?
I saw the ebay auction and that is very clear.
There is not such a "piece" on the CMT catalogue, but maybe it is part of the spares available at repair centres.
Thanks for the information, it is very interesting.
Alberto