Thread: Zero clearance insert for MK3 table top

Make a false table top using 3mm MDF with grooves routed in it for the fence, or alternatively clamp a battern it as a fence. You need to clamp this top down on both sides of the blade. Then with the saw running, gently plunge it up through the MDF and you now have zero clearance around the blade. You also have no riving knife or overhead guard unless you can come up with a way to cut the slots for them.

Thanks Chief Tiff

I won't run the saw without a riving knife. I think I shall junk the table and spend money on a mid size table saw. Table saws without riving knives scare me.

Thanks from one Pastafarian to another.
Grahame

Can't you just extend the slot you just made in the 3mm mdf so the existing riving knife will protrude?

I had a similar need for zero clearance recently. Ripping short, narrow peices would be safer and easier with a zero clearance top.

I'm new here and still learning about this triton gear.

Glenn

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Make a false table top using 3mm MDF with grooves routed in it for the fence, or alternatively clamp a battern it as a fence. You need to clamp this top down on both sides of the blade. Then with the saw running, gently plunge it up through the MDF and you now have zero clearance around the blade. You also have no riving knife or overhead guard unless you can come up with a way to cut the slots for them.

Originally Posted by Glenno11

Can't you just extend the slot you just made in the 3mm mdf so the existing riving knife will protrude?....

I use a variation of what is proposed by CT and Glenno.

• Cut a piece of 3mm MDF about 25mm larger than the gross area of the Triton table top - not just the top insert.
• glue two 10 mm battens along long sides of MDF snug against table top. Glue third batten across right hand end.
• route four slots for the fences to slide in.
• put MDF top in place, clamp down (at least 4 clamps), switch saw on and rotate through MDF to maximum,
• with saw still running, ease clamps and slide MDF 100mm to right. This cuts extension slot for splitter*.
• Glue fourth batten across left hand end of MDF. The battens accurately position the MDF on the table.
• With the splitter attached to table, take guard off the splitter, slide the zero clearance slot over the splitter, reattach guard.
• For security, I tie the MDF top down with cable ties around those cam locks on each corner.

* Although Triton refer to the doodlelacky as a riving knife, it does not move up and down with the saw blade, cannot be retracted, and I think it should more accurately be called a splitter.

The snug battens around all four edges really hold the MDF precisely in place. Before I did that I found that every time I adjusted a fence the MDF moved a little and enlarged the zero clearance slot, and that securing clamps usually got in the way and/or worked loose.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

I use a variation of what is proposed by CT and Glenno.

• Cut a piece of 3mm MDF about 25mm larger than the gross area of the Triton table top - not just the top insert.
• glue two 10 mm battens along long sides of MDF snug against table top. Glue third batten across right hand end.
• route four slots for the fences to slide in.
• put MDF top in place, clamp down (at least 4 clamps), switch saw on and rotate through MDF to maximum,
• with saw still running, ease clamps and slide MDF 100mm to right. This cuts extension slot for splitter*.
• Glue fourth batten across left hand end of MDF. The battens accurately position the MDF on the table.
• With the splitter attached to table, take guard off the splitter, slide the zero clearance slot over the splitter, reattach guard.
• For security, I tie the MDF top down with cable ties around those cam locks on each corner.

* Although Triton refer to the doodlelacky as a riving knife, it does not move up and down with the saw blade, cannot be retracted, and I think it should more accurately be called a splitter.

The snug battens around all four edges really hold the MDF precisely in place. Before I did that I found that every time I adjusted a fence the MDF moved a little and enlarged the zero clearance slot, and that securing clamps usually got in the way and/or worked loose.

I bought a MK3 a couple weeks back and it’s cutting pretty good but like others found its downfalls. I’ve been looking of upgrading the table to make a custom fence and making tracks to make a sled and you’ve just given me the best low tech way to do it.

Thanks!

Good evening Grahame

On the issue of the rusted table. I have just had my MK3 table grit blasted, rust proofed and powder coated. Looks like new, but I had to go for a 'safety yellow' colour as the orange available was too dark. It's completely rejuvenated the table and only cost $80 (in Brisbane), but a word of warning - the bracing on the underside is glued on and will separate in the power coating oven. So if you get it done, take a few pictures/measurements beforehand so you can reposition it accurately. I removed the fence scale strips before getting the table treated. They came off quite well and I'll try to put them back, but have bought a couple of self adhesive replacements from eBay (about $22) just in case.

On the zero clearance issue. I agree with the other posts below. I used 4mm ply years ago to span the table. You bring the spinning blade up through the clamped ply (in table saw mode) to create a slot long enough to accommodate the splitter and blade. You can then 'fettle' the slot (if needed) to allow the splitter to fit neatly. I then created slots for the fence locks. The fence locks will normally hold the ply in position, but a couple of clamps will help as well.

Hope this helps. Good luck with it.

Originally Posted by Joshkeogh

I bought a MK3 a couple weeks back and it’s cutting pretty good but like others found its downfalls. I’ve been looking of upgrading the table to make a custom fence and making tracks to make a sled and you’ve just given me the best low tech way to do it.

Thanks!

Hope it goes well, Josh.

I omitted to say that I use furniture polish on the top of the MDF sheet to make sure everything slides smoothly. Its really worthwhile.