Thread: $2 Brass Back Saw

Looks very much Spear & Jackson to me and maybe 1970s to 80s

Hi Darren,

I agree with Claw Hama, the style is Spear and Jackson, the closest I could find is a Lloyd Davies (one of the many S&J brands).



As far as a date goes, it's pretty hard to tell, but S&J handles from the later period had that space age styling, so I think it's earlier. Probably later than 1920's but earlier than 1970..

The three holes in the handle would have been drilled by someone trying to hang it on a nail.... why three? just guessing but maybe it took three goes to find the right spot?

Why no stamp? Best guess is it's a budget model for a specific customer, maybe a hardware retailer. Probably had an etch on the blade which has long since disappeared.

Traditionally a 14" saw would be called a "sash tenon saw" 20ppi is however way too fine for that? Maybe it has been re-cut for a special purpose?

Congratulations on getting the bargain of the year ... $2 Where did you say this tip is?

Regards
Ray

Thanks for the input Ray & Claw Hama. If it is a S & J, were the pre 70 saws any good? The saw doesn't look like it's been re-cut, but then I wouldn't know so it probably has been. The three holes in the handle have me stumped though Ray. The hole in the middle is larger than the 2 on the outside, being 1/4 inch. The 2 outside holes are 3/16 inch. Centre to centre the outside holes are 1 1/8 inches apart with the larger hole equidistant in the middle. All three holes are 5/6 inch from the chamfer on the outside edge of the handle. All these measurements are really precise and, whilst maybe not shown too clearly in my photos, lend me to think that something was attached there by either the manufacturer, or possibly by the distributor, rather than by a previous owner looking to hang the saw off a nail. Does anyone out there know of a saw maker that put their name on a badge? attached to the handle as opposed to stamping the blade or carving it in the handle.

Hi Darren
I bought one of the last of this model in the mid 80s, there was a 14 but got the 12, I have never seen them for sale since. I still use it although I have put a custom handle on it and been shapened quite a few times.
Badge question, I have never seen a badge of any type on a timber saw handle. Plastic handles are diferent, they stick things everywhere. If it was a badge I don't think they would have used such large holes, I would think they would have only used 1/8" at the largest. Good luck with it.

Oh and the name was only a faint etch on the blade that disapeared after the first half a dosen cuts.

Darren, I too go with the view those holes were for hanging - or even accidental. As Claw says, no badge would need fixings of those poportions. And I know people do some odd things, but I can't imagine anyone attaching a plate to the handle of a tool - it would be distinctly uncomforatble to say the least!

The pics of the blade show some rust, but as long as it's not pitted where the teeth have to go, it should be fine. I reckon you could have a real bargain on your hands. I clean old blades up with wet & dry using kerosene as the 'wet' bit - working through from about 220 to 400 gives a nice finish without getting too carried away.

I cannot imagine why it has 20 tpi - perhaps it started life as a 10 tpi, which would be quite appropriate on a saw of that size, and someone decided to double the number. I would have it recut at 10 or 12 - it will be much more useful in that configuration.

Cheers,

Thanks all, I will bow to the greater knowledge and assume a previous owner decided to drill some holes to hang the saw off a nail. Just as a follow up, roughly what would it cost to get the saw either A) sharpened or B) re-cut at 10/12 PPI.
Cheers

Darren

Originally Posted by LifetimeBan

...... Just as a follow up, roughly what would it cost to get the saw either A) sharpened or B) re-cut at 10/12 PPI.
Cheers

Darren - should cost no more than about $15 max., for re-toothing & sharpening. It doesn't matter to the sharpener how many tpi you want - they just dial it up on the machine & watch them appear. You could file off the old teeth, but most places tell me there really isn't any need to do that. The job you get back may vary greatly in quality - rip profiles are usually no problem, but a lot of places don't make a very satisfactory job of sharpening crosscuts. They get the rake angles & general tooth profile ok, but often with no, or very little, fleam.

However, that's not a big hurdle - armed with the proper file and something like this to guide you:

Welcome to Vintage Saw's Saw Filing Treatise

This may be a good time to start learning about the mysteries of saw sharpening. You have nothing to lose but $2!

Good luck - this may be the start of something big....

Cheers,

Darren,
You have scored a bargin at 2 bucks for a brass backed saw. Spear and Jackson are good tools and it looks like one. Regardless of what it is it is a good quality saw with brass hardware. As the others said have it recut and sharpened and it should last a few lifetimes. The 20tpi teeth were probably put on it for a special job. Could have been picture frames or something. The holes in the handle are just holes and I have no idea why. Maby the kids got hold of it. Would be easy to plug them if you intend refinishing the handle.
Regards
John

Is the saw really 20ppi? I don't think I could photograph teeth that small. Examining the photo close-up of the teeth, there were 10ppi (if the photo is actual size). The full length picture should show 280 teeth, but my quick check of heel suggests 10ppi as well. Of course I may be completely wrong!

As Ian says - get the teeth re-cut to change the ppi, but do your own sharpening and setting. That way you can get it just right.

If 10ppi, then the teeth are not too bad and should sharpen up well.

Cheers
Peter