3 saw rescue

**pjt** · 11th August 2011, 02:43 AM

Hi all, I recently cleaned up a panel saw and you know how one thing leads to another

I had a look at some of Dad's other saws that I also want to bring back to service, I have a few questions tho that the darksiders will know

I'm only a sometimes darksider
Here's the 3 handsaws I want to bring back to reasonable service
Attachment 178751
The top one is a auction pickup and I cant see a maker's name on it, the blade is quite a bit narrower than the other CC so I was wondering.... Would it have been for a special purpose?
The handle is quite comfortable, it is also narrower, once again I'm thinking A special use?
or Has it just had lots of sharpens? Being a 7tpi suggests that it was for thicker stock and would not have needed to have a narrow blade

At the time of the split nut group buy I thought Nah I don't need them

as you can see there are two missing from the top saw, Would there be any split nuts left over or has anybody got any they didn't use?

Both the CC saws have the hollow back indicating a tapering blade, Does this mean that the set of the teeth can be a little less than for a non taper blade? Are there other advantages to have a tapering blade?

The red handled one(plastic

) has the two dragons on the handle or what look like dragons

someone else (Virgil) in another post suggesting a Sandvik.

The rip has a straight back. no taper, I'm thinking that this might have been the norm Yes/No? and a wider blade to keep the saw on a straighter path, Is my thinking

or

This is a collection of unknown brands (auction job lot) Would the steel be any good for scrapers or making up some tenon/dovetail saws?
Attachment 178753 Attachment 178754

From what I read on here it seems to be good to have one tenon/dovetail backsaw with teeth set for rip and one set for cross cut Yes/No?
If this is the case and we had two set for rip then we'd just refile the teeth for CC on one of the saws, anything to watch out for in doing this?
Attachment 178752

With the saw set it has a graduated anvil, I assume the numbers relate to the number of teeth or something else completely?
With the panel saw I cleaned up it had a 10 stamped on the blade which when I counted the tpi was 10, I set the saw set for 10 and it seemed to look OK not too much not too little
Am I on the right path with this?
Attachment 178755

Thanks in advance
Pete

**orraloon** · 11th August 2011, 03:04 PM

I will try and answer some of your queations.
Top saw first picture is narrow because it has been sharpened a lot. (I assume uoy are not asking about thickness of steel) Shows it was well used so the owner would have liked using it. If you like you can trim a few inches off the end to avoid bending it.
Hollow ground blades can get by with a bit less set than normal. In fact any saw only needs enough set to cut without binding. Try a little if the saw bunds in the cut then some more.
Numbers on the saw set are TPI. I normally use a bit less than the numbet indicated.
I think the red one is sandvik also
It is handy to have a rip and a x cut in tennon saws. Saw steel is easy to file and teath can be changed.
As for saw steel then the others can be used for whatever saw making you have in mind. The 2 tennons are in not bad nik and could be used as is or with nice hand made handles added.
Hope this is some help and keep posting as the saws progress.
Regards
John

**pedder** · 11th August 2011, 07:19 PM

Originally Posted by pjt

With the saw set it has a graduated anvil, I assume the numbers relate to the number of teeth or something else completely?
Attachment 178755

Hi Pete,

IMHO the numbers on the anvil are just numbers to find the same position on the anvil for the next setting. a 4 tpi saw doesn't automatically need more set than a 8 tpi saw, as the Eclipse anvil suggest.

I've removed the red color because it distorts my eye.

Cheers Pedder

**pjt** · 11th August 2011, 08:12 PM

Thanks for that John, I'll tackle the top one first and do WIP as I go.
Good point Pedder,

Pete

**IanW** · 12th August 2011, 07:02 PM

Yes, as Pedder says, the numbers are just numbers, and have little or nothing to do with the number of teeth, other than you will want to use the anvil at the smaller numbers for large teeth, & vice versa. The recomended process is to set about the top 1/3rd of the tooth - not always possible with small teeth.

Amount of set needed is determined by the type of wood cut: dry hardwood usually requires less set than softwood, but that's far fom universal. Not-so-dry wood of any type needs lots more set. One suggestion I have read says set the saw so that it cuts a kerf 50% wider than the thickness of the saw plate. In my experience, that's way too much, especially for smalll saws. A set that gives a kerf about 15% wider than the saw plate works best for me. If the saw "rattles" in the cut, you've got too much set.

Cheers,

**pjt** · 12th August 2011, 07:30 PM

Thanks Ian,
That all makes sense

Pete

**TobyC** · 22nd April 2012, 04:43 AM

Yes I know this is an old thread, but I felt the need to clear something up. You can't determine whether a saw blade is tapered or not by it being a skew back or straight back. Both can be found tapered and non-tapered. Most good quality hand saws are tapered, from the 1840's up until, at least the 1960's.

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