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  1. #1
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    Default A #3 sized infill that fell short of expectations.....

    I don't know if I even presented this plane to the jury when I finished it, I've had a search and can't find it anywhere. I'd been on a flurry of plane making at the time & probably thought you'd all had enough for a while. It was meant to be my ultimate small smoother, the one that would see me to the end of days, so I put everything I thought I knew into it. The infill is Solomon Island "ebony" (Xanthostemon melanoxylon) which is a beast of a wood to work with, hard as the hobs of hell & inclined to chip where you least want it to, but lovely when finished, & sooo tactile:
    3-sized Smoother.jpg

    I already had a very functional small infill based on a 1 5/8" Veritas blade. This had been an 'experimental' project where I was interested mainly in playing with a variation on the Veritas adjuster to see if I could do it better than Veritas (yairs, I know, but you have to aim high even to hit low... ).
    Smthr with Veritas blade.jpg

    In fact, this turned out to be one of the sweetest planes I'd made as far as function is concerned. The adjuster is ok, I sure slowed it down, but it still suffers from the slewing effect inherent in this design, of course. The thick-ish (1/8") PM-V11 block plane blade takes woods like ringed gidgee in it's stride, assisted by the heavy cap-iron I fitted.

    But it doesn't look right! The slightly narrower body isn't in proportion to the length (I couldn't make it any shorter & still fit a rear tote without having way too much hangover). It's fine in profile, but viewed from above it looks like it needs a decent meal! I thought, ok, I know what I'm doing now, so I'll build the best plane ever....

    'Cept it didn't turn out quite as expected. It looks the part, I'm satisfied with that, but I tried to be really clever and added a couple of brass buttons under the blade where the thumbscrew bears down, pinching the idea off Karl Holtey. The plane I saw had a single brass button right under the thumbscrew, but it was a single-iron plane so he didn't have a channel in the bed for the cap-iron screw head like mine. So I put a button either side, which made it a bit trickier to get them both aligned with the sole & blade-block, but after some careful filing & testing I got that sorted.

    The plane worked ok with a nice enough feel:
    First shavings.jpg

    ...but the "simple" cap-iron I used for the first trial was a left-over from some other project. It was a heavy (3.2mm thick) thing & caused the blade to flex when tightened down:
    3 Blade flex.jpg

    ..and I thought this was a recipe for some vibration when the blade had such limited contact with its support.

    So I made a new cap-iron, in my now preferred style with the full curve at the end that sits under the end of the lever-cap.
    Attachment 521857

    I normally fit a lever-cap using the blade assembly intended for the plane so I can sit the edge of the LC right on the top of the "hump" of the CI. This allows the blade to be moved up & down a bit with little change in LC pressure on the blade. But I got the new cap-iron bend a bit off (easy to do with my primitive bending jig!) and the LC was sitting too far back over the hump. It was a bear of a thing to adjust, it would go from not cutting at all to a coarse shaving at the merest tap.

    I put up with it for much longer than any sensible person would, until the day before yesterday when I was trying to set it for a fine cut & it simply refused to comply. I pulled it apart and thought "right, I'll flatten the curve a bit with a mallet & file it a bit to get the top closer to flat where the LC bears on it.

    Ha! after an entire morning of fiddling with it, the problem was worse than ever - flattening the curve caused the edge of the LC to lift off the blade & in trying to correct that, I ended up with an even smaller radius to the hump which exacerbated the setting problem! Eventually, I did what I should've done in the first place & re-made the CI, making sure the curve was very gentle in the critical area (new CI at the top in pic).
    5 Old & new CI.jpg

    Problem solved, it can now be set for coarse or fine shavings easily:
    6 Coarse shavings.jpg 7 Fine shavings.jpg

    So perhaps it will now see te sort of use I had envisaged. I'm not done with it yet, though, I have this feeling that it would benefit further from a heavier blade & cap-iron like the infills of old sported, so I'm planning to test that idea at some point (but not for a while). I can increase blade thickness by quite a bit because I ended up with a mouth that is a little larger than I'd planned.

    But that'll be a story for another rainy day...

    Cheers,
    IW

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Default

    Nice plane, Ian. As usual [emoji6]

    By the way the metal buttons under the blade are very common in certain German planes.

    They have been included in a patent by Carl Emmerich from 1958.

    Here is a picture of a plane I am currently playing with which is built after that patent. But not that old though. I hope to post a show and tell on that soon.



    Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

  4. #3
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    Default

    Interesting, CK, I've handled a few Emmerich planes, but not seen the buttons on any of them - was it only some special lines that had them?

    Maybe that's where Karl Holtey got the idea from? So in future I should acknowledge the origin of my 'buttons' as "Emmerich via Holtey".

    If they were patented in 1958 it should have well & truly expired by now so I guess I'm pretty safe.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #4
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    Ian, you may remember the wooden shooting plane I made some time ago. I wasn't entirely satisfied with its performance and spent a bit of time making sure that the "track" was square to the table, making sure that the fence was square to the track, making sure that the cheek was square to sole, etc. In the end, the blade just wasn't sharp enough. Using some older oilstones really made a difference! And now it is much more fun to use (and I feel just a tiny bit more competent).

    CK, I am waiting on delivery of an ECE smoother and wondering if you have any tips for tuning them. It was a nice tight mouth and the twin timber body, beech top half and hornbeam(?) sole

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    ..... In the end, the blade just wasn't sharp enough. Using some older oilstones really made a difference! And now it is much more fun to use (and I feel just a tiny bit more competent)....
    Yep, as Luke Maddux once remarked, "Sharp trumps all".

    It can sometimes take me a while to pick up on the seemingly very small details that are robbing a plane of peak performance (whether mine or a manufactured one). I am happy to report my plane is now up to expectations with its new cap-iron (very carefully fitted!), and tweaking the 'buttons' in the blade bed a bit. I found if I put the blade in (with LC out) and pressed firmly on the bottom edge, there was a teeny gap over the right-side button. I was sure it was ok when I made it, but the gap was so slight I probably missed it at the time. Anyway, levelling the blade so it sits firmly on all 3 points seems to have set the icing on the cake & it's cutting as sweetly as I'd hoped.

    Just for fun, yesterday I modified a heavier, old-style chip-breaker and tried it in the plane. The fit wasn't quite perfect and there was a teeny gap over about 3mm on one edge, but it was good enough to show that it made no dramatic improvement, it felt no more 'solid' than the new chipbreaker I fitted, so I think this story is closed for the foreseeable future.

    Now to start enjoying it, building a few bits of furniture - something I've done too little of this last year or two....

    Chers,
    IW

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Interesting, CK, I've handled a few Emmerich planes, but not seen the buttons on any of them - was it only some special lines that had them?
    The buttons were only in combination with their unique blade adjustment mechanism. The one I have is actually an eastern German model using the same mechanism. There were three fabricators which use that as far as I can tell. ECE, Ulmia and the Eastern German Howal.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    CK, I am waiting on delivery of an ECE smoother and wondering if you have any tips for tuning them. It was a nice tight mouth and the twin timber body, beech top half and hornbeam(?) sole
    As said above the one I am playing now is not ECE, but a Howal. Howal are not as expensive, which shows in some details and one major one. However, I doubt you experience the latter one in an ECE.

    So far tuning them is same as for any wooden plane really. If you bought one with blade adjustment mechanism then it is quite interesting though.

    I will try and post later my experiences so far. It'll be a longer post which I am preparing.

    Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

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