Results 16 to 26 of 26
-
2nd September 2023, 03:34 PM #16Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2023
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 384
Really mate - thats my hobbies, finding ways of avoiding suffering from attention deficient disorder and buying expensive grinding stones to shave 10 seconds.....
Seriously though, the tooling for this method not much - you can see my highly prized "Hotley" precision bolt, just above- has pride of place in the tool kit. As for pace thats a characteristic of the approach, used arbitrarily chosen to define the method.
I try and use worry constructively, quite happy to figure out how to knock projects with my pocket knife and a bunch of good ideas.
PS - even for a "hobbiest" time is not unlimited, it only defines that you not having to make crust from it. You don't fully escape from your own internal goals on what time you're prepared to put into a project. I will to bet that hobbiest's sometimes don't even finish what they started.
-
2nd September 2023 03:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
2nd September 2023, 04:14 PM #17Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
2nd September 2023, 05:06 PM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2023
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 384
Dry Timbers that I have used with this approach
Jarrah
Tasmanian Oak
Sheoak
Blackwood
Pine a couple of varieties minus radio for sure and another type unidentified
Spotted gum
MDF
The holes at either end "mostly' block splitting.
I have some smaller "ham knifes" made from craftright scrapers that are thinner if splitting is a concern.
Also sometimes I don't hammer to full depth. The short level can be "planed" down with chisel. Slower but easy.
I have gone across grain using this approach but spacing between holes needs to be closer. Also, working on the endgrain side of hole, needs a bit of care, but is workable. nest to hammer between the holes on the side of mortise furthest from the edge first.
There is second technique I use as well but I will likely spin up a seperate thread.
The second technique is easier to dive down deep and works in end grain, enabling floating tenons. Takes tad more cleaning up than this one. This techniques is easier to judge depth of the mortise.
-
2nd September 2023, 06:23 PM #19Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2023
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 384
Thought I would add - I have never used these tools a "green" wood tool. After starting using the approach, as it is pretty simple and I assumed someone had used the approach before. Twybil was what was found that is, in principle, similar. They're likely others using this style as well, but I don't know of them as yet.
-
2nd September 2023, 10:19 PM #20Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2023
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 384
Hi All
Photos of the sequence. In this case the timber factored between the two holes, when ham knife was hammered in. Didn't obtain the full depth that that allows the use of the bolt to fracture out a lump.
With a bevel down chisel I planed out 5 / 6mm deep layers the hammer in again. Not quite as rapid but easier than than chopping through the end grain.
IMG_5667.jpgIMG_5668.jpgIMG_5671.jpgIMG_5673 2.jpgIMG_5674 2.jpg
-
3rd September 2023, 02:41 AM #21
Martin, I think this is brilliant!
I need a closer look at the ham knife - side, end. Length, thickness?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
3rd September 2023, 07:26 AM #22
-
3rd September 2023, 01:40 PM #23Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2023
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 384
Hi Derek
The Ham Knife / Cheese chisel has double bevel edge. It 30mm wide and the body tapers from 0.9 to 2mm.
Have a second tool that is 13mm 0.9mm thick, square at the leading edge and can penetrate about 18mm deep.
Ideally, would shape the bodies a differently, to ease deep penetration, improve accuracy. At some stage need make one 8/9mm wide for smaller details - but as they are, these work.
Notes on other uses -(they are sort of a bulk wood removal tool)
- stopped ends on dado's
- stopped ends on rebates (note for one project, took out a rectangular blocks from the side of the timber- that felt "odd" as as typically that wood is disintegrated)
- waste between dovetail - (needs a narrow version but is is possible to punch though end grain)
and mortises of course.
Not currently regarding them as a "precision" tool - traditional designs are better for the final 0.X mm and the bodies are not "perfected"
Once in rhythm, work proceeds easily with these tools and I guess they save the edges of my chisels for precise work
-
3rd September 2023, 02:10 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2020
- Location
- Sunshine Coast
- Posts
- 742
Yes to the rest but. Isn't being a hobbyist just that... Someone that doesn't finish anything. LOL.
Come to think of it... That was the rule years ago for professionals also. Mechanics drove junkers, carpenters house was never finished... My house still needs skirting a year after I put the carpets down, and I have a couple furniture pieces - in pieces.
-
5th September 2023, 09:37 AM #25
Well, the proof's in the pudding, as they say. Being able to knock out the chunk of she-oak like that is pretty impressive. Your WA she-oak is a bit softer than the east-coast variety (A, torulosa) but still a hard, fissile wood. I do wonder though, if a 'blunt' end might not work even better. Might be worth some experimentation.
Looks like we all need an ultra-thin, short bladed chisel or two - Veritas, take note....
Cheers,IW
-
5th September 2023, 09:55 AM #26Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2023
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 384
Ian,
The Ham knife had an edge at the start. It's also realitively strong as body tapers from 0.9 to 2mm accoss 50mm. Curved front helps as well - T think
Used the knife in spotted gum, Tasmanian Blackwood and jarrah, Tasmanian oak, mdf.
Tried blunt edges as well. They work but without the taper and perhaps heavier hammering snapped them when longer than approx 15 to 18mm.
Regards
Similar Threads
-
QUEENSLAND Hand tools- Lie Nielsen, Bad Axe, Gramercy Tools, Glen Drake
By kfinch in forum WOODWORK - Tools & MachineryReplies: 14Last Post: 19th November 2020, 09:12 PM -
N.S.W. Western Sydney - Hand tools and power tools all must go and crazy prices
By JRW1970 in forum WOODWORK - Tools & MachineryReplies: 30Last Post: 11th November 2017, 11:55 AM -
mastered hand-cut dovetails? a more difficult challenge
By mic-d in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 18Last Post: 24th August 2010, 10:38 PM