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Thread: Adjusting a wooden plane
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10th June 2004, 11:43 AM #1
Adjusting a wooden plane
Hi all,
I have just started woodworking not long ago. I know you guys are kind enough not to laugh at me when I say something stupid, aren't you ?
I have just bought an 11" mujingfang plane yesterday (yes, from Paul's, after reading all the positive posting) and I tried to put it together and found that the clearance between the opening on the sole and the blade is very narrow (less than 1mm), I think it would clog up when I use it. I have tried for almost an hour puting the locking piece on the back or on the front and still doesn't work. Have any of you had this problem with any wood planes and any suggestion on how to fix it?
Heaps of thanks,
Wai
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10th June 2004 11:43 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th June 2004, 11:59 AM #2Originally Posted by wai
I've only had a bit of a play with my MujingFung. The metal wedge goes on the front of the blade.
Lay the plane flat on the bench or block of wood, insert the blade, put in the wedge and give it a light tap. Helps if you have a small wooden mallet.
The blade should be set.
HTH. Welcome to the board
Craig
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10th June 2004, 05:15 PM #3
Wai
Craig is quite correct. Follow his directions.
A couple of points:
(1) The mouth (gap between blade and brass insert) is meant to be so small. That is the way you get very thin shavings and avoid tearout.
(2) To deepen the cut, drive the blade in more deeply.
(3) To raise the blade, tap the rear of the body (firmly).
(4) You must check that the blade is sitting squarely, otherwise it will cut grooves. Tap the side of the plane to move the blade.
Enjoy. This is a very good plane. I have one exactly like it.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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10th June 2004, 05:31 PM #4
How I whack the woody.
Wai,
I've got an old wooden, metal-soled smoothing plane and I find it pretty difficult to get adjust the blade upwards for a shallower cut. Tapping the back works but it loosens the wedge a bit.
I've settled into a habit of setting the blad a good 1mm inside the plane. When the wedge is tapped into place it will drive the blade down a little bit. Then I just keep tapping the blade (or the front) and testing the depth until it starts cutting a floaty thin shaving.
It's not scientific, but like al WW technique, you do what works!Cheers,
Adam
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10th June 2004, 05:52 PM #5Originally Posted by LineLefty
Originally Posted by LineLefty
Col
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10th June 2004, 07:30 PM #6
You're right it is an art and as there were hundreds of different planemakers, generic advice is difficult to give.
I bought mine from an old italian bloke a a swap meet who showed me how he had adjusted it for the last 40 years. It was quite nice actually, he was really reluctant to part with it and by the end of his 10minute demo, I noticed that there was about 15 blokes standing behind me watching this bloke plane shavings of a piece of 4x2.
Through his broken english, I managed to get the message that you cant be afraid to give it a good whack!Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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11th June 2004, 09:18 AM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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A few pictures here just in case you haven't got the hang of it yet,
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/bladesettingsmoothtry.htmDan
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11th June 2004, 10:30 AM #8
That is one thick blade! I've never noticed how thick they were. Grinding the primary bevel must take forever on one of these babies.
Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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11th June 2004, 11:05 AM #9
When I was at the Sydney Show, Terry went through his sharpening routine. He specifically mentioned that the primary bevel should be hollow ground so that you don't have to spend forever honing it.
I was surprised at how thick his blades were too. They must be at least 6mm.
Craig
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11th June 2004, 09:53 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Yep 6mm or just a shade under 1/4inch, when the bevel is hollow ground it is very easy to balance the bevel on your stone, no honing guides required.
Dan
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11th June 2004, 10:15 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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I have the same plane. Not an expert by any stretch, but I read (probably Terry Gordon's site I think) that you should keep a nice flat, smooth block of hardwood to set the blade on. Place the plane on it, drop the blade in place, drop the wedge in place, then tap the wedge to seat it. The harder the hardwood block the finer the set of the blade and the finer the shavings. Works for me anyway.
The Australian Woodworkers Database - over 3,500 Aussie Woods listed: http://www.aussiewoods.info/
My Site: http://www.aussiewoods.info/darryl/
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15th June 2004, 05:38 PM #12
Thanks very much guys, I used the plane for the long weekend and I really love it! Thanks for all your helps!!