Advice on Reverse Plane Restoration

**Luke Maddux** · 15th September 2015, 11:00 PM

I've done something kind of stupid...

I bought a plane from a Gumtree seller without actually viewing it in person. In the photos it appeared to be in absolutely incredible shape and, in many ways, it was, but in a couple of ways... Not so much.

First off, it's a type 13 No. 5 1/2. All of the original parts save the blade and cap iron, and they're all in really great shape.

Unfortunately, the previous owner painted the plane and, while it is obvious that they had good intentions, it's also obvious that they either didn't know what they were doing or they rushed the job. It appears as though they painted the bed of the plane and the frog without taping any of the pieces they should've taped, with the exception of the sole and the top of the frog where the blade rests. Several of the smaller parts have paint on them, as does the contact points between the frog and the bed.

Additionally, it has one of those blades that Stanley is producing currently, as well as the matching cap iron. It's the stuff you can get from Bunnings.

So here are my two questions:

1.) I need to very meticulously and strategically remove some paint. In parts, I want to very carefully avoid chipping the adjacent paint and, obviously, I want to avoid damaging the cast iron. What should I consider using to do this? A soft steel chisel comes to mind. I would say a wire brush, but that's not fine enough. Open to any suggestions here. I'm considering an full electrolysis stripping and repainting it if I can't achieve what I need to.

2.) What do people know about these Bunnings-tier blades? It looks and feels like (expletive deleted). Does it perform similarly?

I guess I should've just flown out to Perth to look at the thing... by the time I get in touch with Mr. Hock for a new blade and cap iron I could've paid for the ticket...

Thanks a lot in advance,
Luke

**ian** · 15th September 2015, 11:28 PM

Well, I'd seriously consider throwing the Bunnings blade away.
The Bunnings cap iron might be useable, a cap iron is fairly low tech. You should be able to tune it so that it works like it should.

as for the paint, I'd use a chemical striper to take the lot off and repaint.

**Glenn.Visca** · 16th September 2015, 11:08 AM

Jim Davey might have some second hand units to replace the junk blades ?

**D.W.** · 16th September 2015, 11:35 AM

chisel the paint off of the machined surfaces. It should come off cleanly. I wouldn't use a wire brush, it'll just end up scratching up paint that's not going to be removed.

**Luke Maddux** · 16th September 2015, 07:13 PM

I ended up using a chisel and, yeah, it worked fine. A very light touch with P240 sandpaper took care of any hard to reach spots. I wish I knew what kind of paint the guy used, because it really looks a lot like japanning. Impressively so. Hopefully it was some kind of high heat enamel that has some longevity.

I'm not sure what to do about this blade. It is truly horrific. I may wait until I go home to the US for the holidays and get a Hock. Although, that said, I doubt shipping is that much. I'm kind of expecting this to turn into my go to plane, so it wouldn't hurt to have a quality blade.

Cheers,
Luke

**Twisted Tenon** · 16th September 2015, 07:40 PM

Originally Posted by Luke Maddux

I wish I knew what kind of paint the guy used, because it really looks a lot like japanning. Impressively so. Hopefully it was some kind of high heat enamel that has some longevity.

It may be some kind of engine enamel

TT

**Luke Maddux** · 16th September 2015, 07:44 PM

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

It may be some kind of engine enamel

TT

That's the best thing I can hope for. It's weird... the guy cared enough to apply the paint in a nice, even coat, and he obviously knew what to use to achieve a good match to the japanning, but then he put a borderline worthless blade into it and sprayed a bunch of parts that weren't meant to be sprayed.

**Twisted Tenon** · 16th September 2015, 09:26 PM

Makes you wonder if there was a second person stuffing it up.

TT

**seanz** · 16th September 2015, 09:34 PM

Originally Posted by ian

Well, I'd seriously consider throwing the Bunnings blade away.
The Bunnings cap iron might be useable, a cap iron is fairly low tech. You should be able to tune it so that it works like it should.

as for the paint, I'd use a chemical striper to take the lot off and repaint.

Don't throw it away, it'll make a nice paint-scraper.

**IanW** · 17th September 2015, 10:53 AM

Originally Posted by Luke Maddux

.......I'm not sure what to do about this blade. It is truly horrific. I may wait until I go home to the US for the holidays and get a Hock. Although, that said, I doubt shipping is that much. I'm kind of expecting this to turn into my go to plane, so it wouldn't hurt to have a quality blade....

I don't think I'd need much convincing to go for a new blade, Luke! Sounds like this plane has plenty of potential to be an excellent user, & I don't think many would argue that a decent blade is where it all begins...

I'm warming to my one & only PMV11 blade, after my initial shock & disappointment at seeing how the 'factory edge' crumbled under some (admittedly nasty) Spotted Gum. After a light re-grind, it has been performing much more like the blade it's claimed to be. However, I still think they are more difficult to sharpen keenly, and the real cause for concern is if the 2 3/8" blade will fit your older plane body, without taking a smidgin off the sides to bring it nearer the 2 1/4" it was meant to have. Depending on the casting, it may be possible to use a 2 3/8 blade as-is, I can fit the wider blade in my old 5 1/2 (just), which you worked out is a model or two before yours. However, I did shave a bit off the sides of the LV A2 blade I bought for it, just to give me a bit of wriggle room. It didn't take much to make it an easy fit. I can't be sure someone hasn't taken a file to my plane in the past, & widened the mouth (which is not a terribly brilliant idea, since the sides of the mouth are probably the most vulnerable areas of the casting). If that did happen, it was a very long while ago, & time & corrosion have disguised it, and fortunately, the body is still intact.

I think the simplest solution is to go for one of Ron's products - as far as I can see, he is the only one making a 2 1/4" blade, it's the same price as the LV A2. I am very satisfied with the quality of the couple of Hock blades I have. Jim Davey might have an 'original' cap iron.

Cheers,

**Nads** · 21st September 2015, 02:16 AM

What are wrong with the blades from bunnings? Aren't they still made in England??

**seanz** · 21st September 2015, 06:25 PM

Originally Posted by Nads

What are wrong with the blades from bunnings? Aren't they still made in England??

Yes, from Cheddar.

**Luke Maddux** · 21st September 2015, 07:37 PM

Originally Posted by IanW

I think the simplest solution is to go for one of Ron's products

Yeah, I've already ordered an O-1 blade and chip breaker. Looking forward to giving it a whirl. I'm kind of hoping the difference isn't too terribly noticeable, lest I be faced with the decision of upgrading all of my blades!

Cheers,
Luke

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