Thread: I am down the "rebate" hole......

Ian, I will try to explain. Sort off as you said it, but straight on the actual piece.


I thought best is to sketch it up and go through the steps I took here:

Side Rebate Plane Bed Layout.jpg

1. I cut a wood blank to the complete size of the plane. Means complete height and length. The bottom is then trimmed later so the brass skate is exposed.


2. Marked the location of the mouth (A) = 25mm from the toe.


3. I cut the brass to the length of the plane, but minus the toe. Means from the mouth (A) to the end of the heel.


4. Stuck them together with double sided tape so the bottom edges and the mouth location lined up


5. Marked a line from (A) to (B) by using and angle of 30 degrees across the face of the blank


6. Marked a parallel line from (C) to (D) using the width of the blade

7. Marked a length of 4.55 times the combined thickness of wood and brass from (A) along the line to get point (G). A ratio of 4.55:1 will result in a 12 degree bed angle later. I had established that separately on a piece of paper. Although one can also calculate that, but I guess this is accurate enough. Actually it is more accurate than I can measure and work towards In my case the combined thickness was 14mm. So I measured 64mm between (A) and (G).


8. Transferred (A) across the plane bottom to get (A*) and squared (G) to the edge down.


8. Then connected (A*) to (F) and finding point E as the point where the line crosses from brass to wood


9. Transferred (E) over to the blank face to get point (K) to (L). (G-H) is now the line where the blade end exits the plane body later and (K-L) is the line where later the wooden bed transitions into the brass bed. But you can also measure that from (A) using the same ratio of 4.55 times thickness of the brass. Works either way.

20200611_084254 (2).jpg20200611_082521.jpg

My layout lines got a bit messy and I then marked the final lines with a knife and created knife walls before cutting.


10. Cut out the notch/waste.

20200611_084813.jpg


11. Then I separated the brass and the wood again and made two saw cuts from the underside of the wood blank at point (A) to point (G) on the face. The second cut then from the underside at point (M) to the face at point (H). Now both these cuts go in a 12 degree angle from the underside to the face in the right depth


From there on it was just a matter of chiseling out the waste of the bed and refine it with a small shoulder plane. To test it in between I placed the blank on a flat piece of wood and slide the blade down the bed and see if it digs into the flat surface more or less evenly.

20200611_110942.jpg


After that I stuck it again together with the brass. Transferred the bed to the back and decided where to put the screws. I could have already done that when I had the parts stuck together before. But well it worked this way too. Then drilled the holes and screw the parts temporarily together to file the bed also in the brass using the bed in the wood as guide for hack saw and files.


Finally I trimmed the wood back along the dashed line through point (K) and chiseled out the area where the lever cap will go.

20200611_165419.jpg


I will see how it works on the second plane. If I do not manage to get exact the same blank thickness of the wood I will have to adjust a little as the point where the end of the blade exits the wood would move with this method. I will probably just use the same distance (A) to (G), which might change slightly the angle of the bed, but when you put the planes next to each other that will not really be visible. At least less so as if the blade exits at a different spot.

Hope that all makes sense. Cheers

(Sorry, I had to edit the post a few times as it seems I could not remember correctly first how I did it. Good I recapt it now and can use it further )