Thread: Audit of #45 parts

I saw a few of these the other day in a market. VGC and about $45 ea. I had no cash with me and they didn't take plastic .

Yes I will return .
No I won't say where it is

http://www.traditionaltools.us/cms/i...viewforum&f=11

Cheers,

eddie

I don't want to be negitive, but I don't know of anyone whose managed to get them going after just a few attempts. So, I wouldn't get too excited. You can't just adjust them easily like it looks like you can and wacko it works.

There's quite a few concepts I feel one must understand in order to set them up right. Just need one little thing to be set off and its a pig of a thing to push.

Wouldn't worry about the cam, in terms of use anyway. Don't really need it.

Can give you some tips if you like Jeremy. I've had plenty of practise with these. But be warned I'll probably rave a bit.

In anycase goodluck..... I'm after the main body and fence parts if you want to sell off any ?

Eddie

Thanks for the link - I have the instructions on the #45 already, but the site looks really interesting and I am sure I will find all sorts of useful tips there.

Jake

Any pointers from you would be gratefully received - I suspected that it couldn't be very easy as otherwise more people would use them!!! I am more than happy for you to be as long-winded as you like on this subject.

If you don't think that others will want to see these, PM me and I will send you my e-mail address.

I attach a photo of what remains of the three incomplete planes that I started with - I only managed to find one fence!! Anything you want from this is yours, Jake.

Cheers

Jeremy

Ok Jeremy, I'll give it a go I'm not really shore how to begin, but I'll try and list them all. Ideally need a few photos I think, but I can't get them right now. To do it properly.....we're talking many pages really.

Lot of these manuals and instructions don't even touch some of the most important things you need to know. A pet pieve of mine. Sure there interesting, but they often don't provide enough information to get them going properly.

This is all just an opinion again. You may find a better way. I've tried a few ways, but I keep coming back to these methods. Personally find the results consistant.

1....again, is the blade sharp ? This'll probably be your biggest problem. You'll need a grinder and buffing setup I think. http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...d=1#post379577

The trick is to learn how to get the edge sharp whilst maintaining the profile. ie. good chance it'll stuff up,even if its sharp if its profile is crooked.

The profile for plough blades is obviously just a square grind straight across. However, all planes a little different. May not be exactly square. Ultimately what you want is the blade to peak the same amount past each skate (when you eyeball it from the front with a white background )

For the beads the same is true. But also must ensure the inner side of the profile (the arc curve) isn't so tight that they don't protrude beyond the skates bevel.....ie. make sure ALL of the blades edge can touch the wood. for obvious reasons.

I found the best approach to that is to concentrate on establishing the profile first.....keep it simple....THEN....grind the bevel to meet the profile.

Takes some touch right near completion to make the bevel and backs meet WITHOUT distorting this profile. Cause thats when there's the risk of stuffing it up. Don't worry so much on maintaining a perfect 30 degrees or whatever. Focus on the profile more. There's too much focus on bevel angle in sharpening I think.

At the end of that link above, there's another link, that has that method in mind as well. That may help.

2.... the skates and the fence must be parallel. Even if a little bit out, its like everything is trying to cram itself into the same space. Just doesn't work. Theres' often too much play in the skates and fence for them NOT to sit parallel.....yet its natural to assume that they do. Don't trust it.

So, generally best to do with calipers, with the planes handle clamped in the vise, with the whole thing upside down (to give you an extra hand). After locking up the blade, you lock up the sliding skate to it via only one of its bolts.....say the front bolt.....take your calipers, and set them around both skates at the front.....then, push or pull the skate at the rear and lock its bolt so that with the calipers you can make both skates perfectly PARALLEL(well close as you can)....really important.

Now, you have to make the fence parallel to the skates. I usually use the calipers again, set it to the distance from the edge of the timber you want, ,,,,which is the distance from the fence to one of the skates.....similar as done with setting the sliding skate.........Ultimately its all about ensuring the skates and fence are parallel.

That should solve most of your problems......sharp blades......profiles retained.......skates and fence parallel.

Take some practise to get a feel for them first.

If you still have troubles (and there is a few more) then I have a few more solutions for you. Give us a call.

Goodluck Jeremy. These things haven't got a good rep.

Many thanks, Jake.

I thought that i might start off using the plough blades ( I know I can sharpen a straight line!) and doing simple rebates and dados, before trying to sharpen profiles. I agree with you on the manual - no mention of the need to be parallel or any suggestions on how to sharpen the blades (maybe not quite as critical with woods that are less gnarly and hard as ours?).

I will let you know how I get on.

Jeremy

Originally Posted by jmk89

Many thanks, Jake.

I thought that i might start off using the plough blades ( I know I can sharpen a straight line!) and doing simple rebates and dados, before trying to sharpen profiles. I agree with you on the manual - no mention of the need to be parallel or any suggestions on how to sharpen the blades (maybe not quite as critical with woods that are less gnarly and hard as ours?).

I will let you know how I get on.

Jeremy

ok. Pleasure. I wouldn't worry about dados. I wouldn't use these things accross grain. They've got spurs, but there a crappy design.

Remember to keep plenty of support on the fence. Don't put your left hand on the fence knob. Its a stupid thing. It shouldn't be there. I'd also face the fence with something wider.

I'd try a rebate first....at least to get a feel for success. There's only one shoulder with them. Much better chance you'll pull it off.

Don't reley on the depth stop with the fence off a thin edge....when it rubs it'll cause the plane to tilt over and slice out the rebate from square.....ie. plane to scribed lines on your timber.

IF you plough, you can use both depth stops. That'll help to solve that tilt problem.

Really got to have a sharp blade regardless of what timbers your using. yes, your right, easier on soft woods . I'd practise on straight grained pine......which leads to another important point. Have you got a good way of clamping up your timber on the bench ? ....such that nothing runs foul of your plane, whilst ensuring the timber won't move.

anyway... it'll test your patience. I have to get some work done. Have a good day mate.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

ok. Pleasure. I wouldn't worry about dados. I wouldn't use these things accross grain. They've got spurs, but there a crappy design.

Remember to keep plenty of support on the fence. Don't put your left hand on the fence knob. Its a stupid thing. It shouldn't be there. I'd also face the fence with something wider.

I'd try a rebate first....at least to get a feel for success. There's only one shoulder with them. Much better chance you'll pull it off.

Don't reley on the depth stop with the fence off a thin edge....when it rubs it'll cause the plane to tilt over and slice out the rebate from square.....ie. plane to scribed lines on your timber.

IF you plough, you can use both depth stops. That'll help to solve that tilt problem.

Really got to have a sharp blade regardless of what timbers your using. yes, your right, easier on soft woods . I'd practise on straight grained pine......which leads to another important point. Have you got a good way of clamping up your timber on the bench ? ....such that nothing runs foul of your plane, whilst ensuring the timber won't move.

anyway... it'll test your patience. I have to get some work done. Have a good day mate.

Even if I don't succeed with the plane, at least I can listen to the whitewash

It works - a nice straight and square rebate in a 900mm piece of pine. To be fair, not as good as a normal rebate plane (at least after it has been well tuned and now I am used to it), but good enough to encourage further experiments!

I can see opportunities for use in situations where I don't have a tool that works better. Yes it is cranky and fiddly, but it can work.

More news to come when I use it for real!

Originally Posted by jmk89

Yes it is cranky and fiddly, but it can work.

oh yeah. Definetly. Just practise. With time it won't be cranky or fiddly either.

Glad to hear about the rebate.

They can be made to work better than rebate planes as well. But I'm gonna keep that one to myself right now.

So you got a whole set of blades ?