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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    The second timber is Hornbeam (as it is termed in the USA). This is what Lie-Nielson use, and it has a reputation for taking a lot of abuse. I wonder what it is called in Oz? Someone mentioned that is is also known as Ironwood, but it does not resemble our Ironwood in my eyes.
    Derek - common names are really confusing! Lie Neilsen's businness is a ways from S.E Ontario, but the species in Ontario known as 'Ironwood' was also called 'Hop Hornbeam' (Ostrya virginiana) - a member of the birch family.
    There is a 'true' Hornbeam, Carpinus caroliniana, also of the Birch family, which is sometimes called ironwood, but more often 'musclewood' because of its deeply fluted "muscular" trunk. Both trees grow across a wide sector of eastern Nth. Am.
    Neither of these 'ironwoods' is remotely related to "Cooktown" ironwood (Erythrophloeum chlorostachys) which is a member of the legume family.


    Both Nth. American woods make excellent handles - I have a hammer handle made from Carpinus which has served me well for 25 years, (I broke the original hickory handle when I was both stronger & less patient. ). Ostrya is possibly the wood LN use as it grows into a small tree, whereas Carpinus is barely much more than a large shrub over much of its range, & it would be a nuisance trying to get useful-sized pieces out of the deeply fluted trunks, but maybe there are bigger trees down Maine way. I've got a couple more handle's worth of Ostrya stashed away from my Canadian sojourn, but no more Carpinus, which is a pity, because it is good stuff.

    I agree that many of our woods are hard enough, but tend to be rather brittle, particularly the Eucalypts. Still, many of the Acacias are excellent, & not only scrub up well, but take a mighty pounding to boot. I have also had good service from Calistemons & Melaleucas - both turn very nicely & seem to be tough. The Melaleucas I get hold of round here have a very pale wood, while the Calistemon I've used was pinkish when fresh, fading to a nondescript brown with age.


    My 2c.....

    Cheers,
    IW

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  3. #32
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    Apr 2001
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    Slow

    That is a beautiful job!

    I have replaced almost all my original Berg handles. I am not sure what Berg used, but the original wood is not very durable.

    If I were doing the chisels, I'd probably increase the length of the handles - improves the balance.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    The "elm" was sent to me by a forum member, who said it was elm. I have no idea. It is white/cream with a little brown "smudge" here-and-there. It was hard but not crisp to turn. Sort of "chewy".



    You tell me if this is not one of the more boring timbers you have seen?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek - what you have here could be Celtis sinensis, sometimes referred to as Chinese Elm. 'Tisn't a true elm, but is in the ulmaceae (& has that same jiggly grain pattern). It's ok, but not quite as tough as some of the 'real' Elms. I've just cut down several of them (it's a bleedin weed of the worst kind round here) so I cut up some billets of the larger bits ot trunk to see if they'll make decent chair legs or handles in the future.

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #34
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    Feb 2006
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    Default Old Chisels

    I just bought about 30 old chisels off TradeMe (NZ trading site) for $55. While I know I have a bargain - there are old Wards, Mathiesons, Bergs and Sorbys in there - most of the handles are totally kaputt! I don't have access to those hard Aussie timbers you have over there, but a friend has an Olive grove, so I have unlimited access to olive prunings. The olive wood I have used has been hard, heavy and close-grained. Any use for chisel handles?

    Amongst the chisels I bought were about 10 very small (blades about 65 mm or so, tangs about the same) chisels of various sorts, with no handles, made of very high quality steel. Are these Butt Chisels? If so, do they just have a smaller handle than the usual size chisel, or what's the story?

    Oh, and there was one VERY old chisel which had been hand-forged. It had had a wooden handle at one stage, but appeared to have been used as a cold chisel in its old age - the metal was crystallized. Gave that one to the local college to show the kids. (And drooled over THEIR work while I was there!)

    Any and all help appreciated.

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by HandyAndrea View Post
    The olive wood I have used has been hard, heavy and close-grained. Any use for chisel handles?
    Hi HandyAndrea - if you do a search there's been a couple of threads discussing Olive wood & its uses. I've found it pretty good for chisel handles & it makes excellent mallets too, if you can get larger pieces. Turns & finishes nicely, so you won't get too many splinters from it.

    Quote Originally Posted by HandyAndrea View Post
    Amongst the chisels I bought were about 10 very small (blades about 65 mm or so, tangs about the same) chisels of various sorts, with no handles, made of very high quality steel. Are these Butt Chisels? If so, do they just have a smaller handle than the usual size chisel, or what's the story?
    They were either made that way, or you've got a bunch of well-loved chisels, but in any case, they are butts now! If you think you might be whacking them often, just make sure the handle is comfortably longer than the width of your hand so you don't whack that too frequently. Very handy things to have for all sorts of jobs.

    My set is cobbled up from butt or well-worn Stanleys & Marples. I use them mostly for paring & they might get a mallet thump once or twice per year, so made handles that are short & dumpy & suited to that role. These are Mulga, which might be a bit hard to find across the Tasman, but I reckon Olive would work very well too.

    Good find - 30 chisels for <$2 each is a real find! Half of them could be duds & you'll still have a bargain.

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #36
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    Just to add another option into the mix, I have used silver ash (Flindersia schottiana or F. pubescens I don't know) in preference to Eucalypt lately, and it seems more than adequate for chisel handles, plus its great to turn.

    Cheers
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    Despite your terrible singing Woodwould there is a 3kg bag here with your name on it.

    I'll see how much I can cram into it

  9. #38
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    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Slow

    That is a beautiful job!

    I have replaced almost all my original Berg handles. I am not sure what Berg used, but the original wood is not very durable.

    If I were doing the chisels, I'd probably increase the length of the handles - improves the balance.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Thank you Derek.
    You are right about the timber (whatever it is) that berg used.. Its amazing how many bergs you find in great condition with handles mashed down to stumps.
    Interesting that you mention making the handles longer I'm tending to lean towards shorter handles for everything bar the firmers. The more I work (I have not been working with wood for all that long) the more I find my hands moving closer and closer to cutting edge and I find a short butt style handle to be about right. I imagine perhaps that as my chisels wear down I will regret some of my shortish handles.
    I would also not be surprised if my preference changes as my abilities improve (albeit slowly)

    I do really like the berg handle pattern.

    As an aside I was really surprised how easy it is to turn a good fit for a socket chisel, I had always thought it would be a fiddly experience.

  11. #40
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    Default Wahooo!

    Sorry to previous posters with pics... I really DID mean to tell you how good your chisels look- Its great to work with NICE tools, isn't it?

    Maybe one day my handywork will look as good. I spent the afternoon making an olivewood handle for a socket mortise chisel with rasps and sanders. I need to use it ASAP, so the handle is Quick and Dirty, but still servicable. I was surprised how well it turned out. Will make a beautiful one when I get back to night classes next year and have access to a lathe. The olive was easy to work and very pale-coloured, but seems tight-grained and strong. I think it would turn very well if I could get some bigger bits.

    Re the butts.... these are small all over. They taper down (i.e., are smaller) at the tang end, and are quite elegant. I've seen pics of small carving chisels that look similar, too. I really think they are probably not made for thumping, but I was tossing up between putting elongated or onion-shaped handles on them.... Your thoughts????

  12. #41
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    Travelling back in the Tardis ;-}

    Tom says the Bergs were done out of Birch root.

    The Elm you've used Luban, choc brown and cream, will after exposure to light turn the boring colour of Derek's piece - yep, both heart and sapwood. Damn shame.
    Cheers, Ern

  13. #42
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    English hawthorn is pretty tough and you'd be helping get rid of an environmental weed.
    Cheers,
    Jim

  14. #43
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    ... and cotoneaster, and privet (dunno how hard for thumping but good for paring chisel handles) and Olive (African and European). Indian Hawthorn is another weed of cooler areas that makes good handles.

    Cheerio,
    Virg.

  15. #44
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    Drifting a bit off topic, folks - the original question was "which AUSTRALIAN wood was best for chisel handles..........
    IW

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Drifting a bit off topic, folks - the original question was "which AUSTRALIAN wood was best for chisel handles..........
    Seeing we had osage, cotoneaster etc mentioned, I thought we were talking about wood sourced from Australia.
    Cheers
    Jim

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