Thread: bailey plane,s age.

Try Plane Dating Flowchart 1-20, I've found it useful

Well it is an interesting plane for sure.
Made in the USA.
Sexiest handle ever seen on a Stanley Bailey plane
It appears to have the large depth adjuster which was introduced in 1919.
No raised ring for the front knob so no later than 1928.
But if it has two patent dates then it pre-dates these.
Does it have a frog adjuster screw attached to the base beneath the frog?
If so it is definitely after 1907 but with the large depth adjuster I would think later.
Somewhere between 1919 and 1928 is my guess.
I'm actually leaning towards a Type 12 (1919-1924) as there is no logo on the lever cap.
The experts will know for sure.
Cheers
SG

Sexiest handle ever seen on a Stanley Bailey plane

Not to mention the "banana" blade.


Rust looks a bit serious but that should come up fine.

For me is "Type 12. Planes made by Stanley 1919-1924". Scribbly, bluegum say 3 patent dates, so no pre-date

seanz, not only banana blade, but also big banana handle (ok, italian slang, where "banana" is for... well, you know )

Originally Posted by Orsomagno

For me is "Type 12. Planes made by Stanley 1919-1924". Scribbly, bluegum say 3 patent dates, so no pre-date

seanz, not only banana blade, but also big banana handle (ok, italian slang, where "banana" is for... well, you know )

Three patent dates -
I didn't read it properly - (2+1=3)
Yes a type 12 then.
These were such good planes. It is so sad to see them end up like this one.
Still, it might clean up OK.
Thanks Luca
Cheers
SG

Thanks for all the help everyone i'v uploaded a few more pictures ,these are after it came out of the acid bath ,the pictures are kind of poor but they give me enough proof that its what Scribbley said.

the blade is stamped S W and underneath is heart shaped logo,and underneath is C A N i take that to mean made in Canada.

there is something i would like to know ...how to free up the brass nut at the back of the frog,and can you heat to undo the screws holding the frog down.

Lloyd.

carefully applied heat is good for these types of situations wi th rusty screws. Sometime you need to apply it a couple of time and then let things cool down - then do it again - sometimes then even giving them a sharp wack after a heat treatment. but Be patient.

The key here is the differential expansion between parts (ie screws and housings), so you need to apply the heat carfully so only screw heads get heated which can be done from a red hot rod applied to the head, however I have used a blow torch on the the head of a frog screw.

For the brass adjuster, I would apply heat to it, maybe a couple of times, let it cool then give it a wack but be gentle so you don't damage it.

good luck.

An update to where i am at the present time with my attempt at the restoration of #5 Bailey/Stanley plane.

Also a thank you to Zsteve for his advice on how to get some of those very tight screws to free up ,the ones still giving me grief is the frog adjuster screw,the rear screw thats broken off that holds the tote,and the brass nob that adjusts the blade.

Some things i have found out i think are correct is .....its a #12 but it has a#11 lever cap ,the lever cap has a B cast on the under side of the cap and i was reading on a site where this cap was pre 1900 but as the next lot of planes hit the market some could have previous model parts .

The blade and chip breaker i don't think are original ..my reason for saying this is the blade has Stanley,with a heart beneath with S W inside and under that is Made in Can.,

The chip breaker has no thred in it for the screw to thred into so a bodgie screw and nut has been used but that makes the lever cap sit on top of the head of the screw .

The frog is another one i'm unsure of ,it has a rectangle recess on the left and right side of the front face and i haven't been able to date this frog .

Anyway i'm having an interesting time with it ,i am only a first time resto attempt so if i'm off the track feel free to point out where.

Hi Blue gum, Keep at it with the heat on those screws - at least they are sticking out. I'd just apply heat to both screws still stuck as best you can - let it cool completely then do it again. possibly also add some penetrene. Give em a sharp wack with a hammer. The key is patience. Maybe shield the casting with the frog screw but considering how it is it may not matter that much.

for the tote screw it should be easy to heat up, once you have done it a coupl eof time get the multigrips on it tight and gently try move/rotate it back and forward.

but if all else fails then there may be no choice but to drill them out carefully but thats the last resort as finding the right taps can be tricky -if you drill them out too far off centre and need to tap them to restore the thread.

Hi bluegum.

That frog dates to somewhere between 1933 and today, so it's not original if the base is type #12.

Also, the cap-iron (chipbreaker) is not much use if the thread is stripped. But is it? That bolt looks like it might be smaller than a normal cap-iron screw, which should be 5/16" BSW (18 tpi). If the bolt has the correct thread, and the cap-iron is stripped - look for a replacement cap-iron. If the bolt is too small, a correct screw may solve this problem.

Originally Posted by bluegum30

An update to where i am at the present time with my attempt at the restoration of #5 Bailey/Stanley plane.

The blade and chip breaker i don't think are original ..my reason for saying this is the blade has Stanley,with a heart beneath with S W inside and under that is Made in Can.,

The chip breaker has no thred in it for the screw to thred into so a bodgie screw and nut has been used but that makes the lever cap sit on top of the head of the screw .

The frog is another one i'm unsure of ,it has a rectangle recess on the left and right side of the front face and i haven't been able to date this frog.

Cheers, Vann.