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31st July 2020, 09:03 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Bailey planes No 7 needing guidance
Hi,
Looking for advice on how to get these up to be users again. Picked these up today and looking for a way to get at least one of them as a user quickly. Can I get the missing parts from other planes? Why are these different (other than country of manufacture).?
Have I got the right parts?
What's the safest way to clean and look after them?
I've been looking at these for so long and finally today they were offered to me for rebuild.
Thank you for any advice offered.
Sides.jpgTops.jpgSoles.jpgSole.jpg
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31st July 2020 09:03 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st July 2020, 09:36 PM #2
I would start with the left one. Seems to be most complete. Only thing missing seems to be a blade and the lever cap. Assuming that one of the chipbreaker you have fits.
Maybe someone here has some he can sell you or you look on ebay.
On YouTube you find a lot of videos for plane restoration. They are a good source. I did a few through that.
Then you will know what you need to do more on the right one. Like new tote and front knob and quite a few screws. Again you can find these also on ebay and tote and know you can make yourself. Might be a fun thing to do for you. Also there are videos how people made new ones.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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31st July 2020, 10:08 PM #3
Like Cklett said, get the LH one working. As for why they are different; the one on the right was made in Australia and has an aluminium frog; sometimes these can get warped from the lever cap on too tight. The diagonal ribs on the English plane were designed to increase strength while reducing weight; I’m pretty sure Stanley Aus had stopped production by the time these were introduced. Don’t read too much into the differences; all Stanleys made after WW2 pretty much all perform the same.
You need a 2-3/8” (60mm) blade (still available new from Bunnies) and a lever cap, you can buy one from The Tool Exchange or head to the flea market and look for a junk plane that can donate one. Ideally from a wide plane like a 4-1/2, a 5-1/2 or a 6, although you can use one from a 4 or a 5 temporarily.
Clean off the rust from the body with a steel scraper and buff with a wire wheel if you have one, or scotchbrite, or wet-n-dry emery cloth. The other parts can be soaked in citric acid, white vinegar or molasses; alternatively there are commercially available de-rusting solutions. Evap-o-rust is excellent... but ruinously expensive!Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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1st August 2020, 05:58 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Thank you
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1st August 2020, 10:44 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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If you need knob and tote or other parts, I would start with Jim Davey. A great guy and very knowledgeable. And good to support a business in the bushfire ravaged regions.
E.g.
Tote & Knob Set - Suits Stanley etc. #4 1/2 - #8
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1st August 2020, 12:12 PM #6
Yep. His knobs and totes are top notch. I have two spare sets just in case he increases the price. He could charge twice as much.
His WoodRiver planes are very nice for the price as well. He does setup on them and sends them out with the blade sharpened.
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1st August 2020, 01:12 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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And if you need blades or other parts, call Jim & discuss - he often has items that are not on the online store.
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1st August 2020, 01:49 PM #8
Something odd with the Oz made plane.
The frog is too narrow looking at the pics, so it’s likely off a #4 or #5 which did have die cast frogs.
There appears to be a spare frog in the pic that may be the original off that plane.
The die cast frog whilst junk itself has a cast ‘Y’ lever which is more robust than the Pom sheetmetal split lever.
Personally I’ve never liked the Pom planes with the ribs, nothing wrong with Baileys 1867 design.
Except for an iron and lever cap you appear to have the makings of a decent user there.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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1st August 2020, 02:14 PM #9
Well spotted Clearout; it didn’t click that the alloy frog was only sitting in the body. And having had a 2nd perusal I think you might be right in that it is a smaller one.
The spare frog is cast iron and is 99% likely to have come from a pre-1936 plane; it doesn’t have the ogee shoulders introduced that year. It might fit either or both planes, but I would be checking very thoroughly with engineers blue to see if the mating surfaces actually touch. If they don’t you’ll either have the blade essentially unsupported at the tip, or worse you’ll be putting stress on the body behind the mouth that could cause it to crack.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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1st August 2020, 03:44 PM #10New Member
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I have a spare lever cap and blade. I sold one yesterday and got $15 for a level cap I sold so I’d want the same. and I think I have a English blade over 3/4th in length in fact closer to full length For $15 too. Plus postage which was 8.70 yesterday.
If you want.
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2nd August 2020, 07:16 PM #11
But get in quick as Stanley have now stopped making the 2 3/8" size - so if Bunnings still have them, they're end of stock. I believe Record Irwin may still be making irons in that size.
Originally Posted by Chief Tiff
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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9th August 2020, 07:52 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Thank you I'm looking into these now
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9th August 2020, 07:55 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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Thank you very much for that offer. I just needed to get in clean the shed to find my stash of planes and parts. I found a 4 1/2 that I borrowed the parts from for the moment. I was given the opportunity to buy a load of other things including a 52 1/2P vice is excellent condition so holding no to remaining cash at the moment.
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9th August 2020, 07:58 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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Borrowed parts from a 4 1/2 plane I had hidden in my shed. These are my first trial shavings. Thanks for all the advice and the details on where to get new parts.
First shaving 01.jpg
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