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Thread: Bent plane blade
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21st February 2007, 08:33 AM #1
Bent plane blade
When I took the Carter C1 apart for fettling, I found that the blade (or iron or cutter) had a bow in it along its length so that the middle (where the cap iron screw holds the blade) is about 1.5mm higher than the cutting edge and the back end when the blade is laid on a flat surface bevel down.
At the time I didn't quite know what the effect of this would be.
I found out last night - it means that the cap iron doesn't exert enough pressure at the front to seal against the back of the blade and chips, instead of being broken and going over the chip breaker/cap iron, clog up between the cap iron and the back of the blade. Doesn't make for a good cut!!!! to say the least.
So I have to straighten it out. Before I use the technique I first thought of (put it in vertically the vice (cutting edge down) and hit the back end progressively harder with a hammer until the bow has gone and then flatten by hitting it on the top of the curve while holding it on a piece of steel rail that I use for an anvil), I wondered whether any of you had a better suggestion.
(Actually, I couldn't use the vice last night because it was being used for part of a glue up, so it was only luck that means that I am not telling you the results of the percussive approach )
Cheers
JeremyCheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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21st February 2007, 10:01 AM #2
Jeremy - I think this is the perfect excuse to go out and buy a good after-market blade! But in the meantime, you do need to straighten the old blade so the cap-iron can seat properly, and you can make your plane work. I can't imagine any way better than what you describe.
And just a little rant about the term "chipbreaker". This seems to have been coined by some dumb North American who had no idea of the function of the part. It has nothing to do with 'chip-breaking'. As has been pointed out by several people much wiser than I, you've lost the plot long before any chip reaches the cap iron to be 'broken'. The beam-strength of a typical shaving is far too small to break the fibres on the wood 1/2 a mm or so away. The cap-iron has a number of much more important jobs: (1) It pre-tensions the typically thin cutters used on Bailey type planes to reduce chatter. This is necessary because the design means you have a lot of overhang between the last bit of bedding (the frog) and the cutting edge. (2) It adds mass and dampens the resonant frequency, also reducing chatter. (3) it has the slot for the vertical adjustor to engage in.
And yes, it needs to be properly mated to the cutter, or shavings will get under it and reduce its effectiveness in a big way.
Cheers,IW
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21st February 2007, 10:07 AM #3
Thanks Ian.
I always knew the piece as a cap iron, but I have noted that some people here call it a chipbreaker, so I thought I would use the double expression so everyone knew what I was talking about.Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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21st February 2007, 10:10 AM #4
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21st February 2007, 08:54 PM #5
Bang
Bang
BANG
Fixed
And it now cuts off lots and lots of nice little curliesCheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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21st February 2007, 10:26 PM #6
Doh.. I hit it wif a hammer & It just broke
Seriously hitting this sort of thing with a hammer is accepted practise but its a little calmer to make a perss out of a vice or some clamps.
in a wood vice place a packer ate each end of the blade on one side and in the middle on the other and crank it up.... keep trying till you get it straight.
You can get quite a bit of controll with this method.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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