Thread: Berg - 'rehab' sharpen and blueing questions

First of all, if the "someone" who inflicted this damage is the current owner of these chisels you must tell him/her that they are not recoverable and buy them a set of Fatmaxes instead. You "need to keep these as you want to make arrowheads out of them" (or any other story that allows them to stay in good hands).

I think I would concentrate on getting the cutting edges correctly ground, and then try them on some challenging wood to see if they've retained their temper. Only grind away what you need to. Visible damage beyond that is a shame, but it's also a shame to waste good steel for appearence sake.

My 2d worth.

Cheers, Vann.

Whats the benefit in blueing them?

Vann -
Ufortunately the owner was not the butcher.

Pacman -
Nowadays I'll get the rust off old steel tools by surface grinding and/or electrolysis, then coat with a phosphoric acid based 'rust converter'. Over that I'll use a gun blueing liquid and build up a deep, dark, glossy, hard coat that protects the steel from further rust. The tools will not be shiny, but stay rust free for a long, loong time.

The difference is in the appearance.

Hi Clinton

I suppose related questions are

how fine is the side bevels, are they all the same or is the bevel on some finer than on others?

as far as I know, most Bergs have hoped handles -- even the fine paring ones

bluing? I follow what you're saying, but a wipe down with an oily rag every time they are put away should solve the rust problem.
for me, the key question is, will the bluing affect the flat back?

Originally Posted by Pac man

Whats the benefit in blueing them?

Bluing (steel) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Originally Posted by ian

. . . . for me, the key question is, will the bluing affect the flat back?

Depending on how it is done bluing is formed at sub metal crystallite sizes and so should not affect the flatness of the back.

Some bluing methods are chemically aggressive and it only takes a lapse in memory to forget you have a bluing process happening and some pitting of surfaces may occur. When I start a run of bluing I put my bluing tank (made of bright blue plastic) in the middle of the door way of the shed so that when I enter I have to move it aside to get in the door and this reminds me I have to deal with it.

Hard to know without seeing them, The pictures will help. If the objective is to make the chisels useful - then only the tip should need attention, que? Depends on the damage of course, and how square the edge is. I hope the grinder was not used to flatten the backs!

The tools were not blued in the factory, they are not used by nutters to shoot innocent wildlife in National Parks - why not just a wipe with oil as Ian says?

Cheers
Peter

Apologies. I woke up on Friday with my back in misery, so I didn't leave the house and didn't get the photos I promised.

BobL explained (better than I could have) why blueing does not affect the back 'polish' on a blade.
Also wiping off the wire edge helps to minimise the amount of blueing on the back.

I've gone around the 'bench grinder attack' areas on the widest one (2") with a marker.
The rest of the set are in lesser states of damage

.DSC_6799.jpgDSC_6800.jpg

Holy Toledo!

Nice collection - of mainly Toledo - chisels; mind you I like Toledo and have them in my user set to get the range of sizes. Looks like there might be a couple of duplicates though. At one time I tried to put together a Berg bevel set in 1/16" from 1/8" up to 1", and in 1/8" up to 2" - a complete set. After a while I came to my senses, and looked for 1/8" up to 1" and 1/4" to 2" - I am almost there (not all Bergs), with quite a few duplicates/triplicates of course.

All of them including the 2" should grind the bevel with no problem assuming a patient approach... Square off the end, and then grind your bevel angle of choice.

BUT - what do the backs look like? This is the biggest problem with chisels. The options include:

1. Flatten the backs on a belt sander (I find this too hard to control, but I know people who do this well)
2. Use a Dremel with a grinding stone bit to hollow out the area behind the edge (like a Japanese chisel). This speeds up the process greatly, and is now my preferred method.
3. Use a sanding belt glued to a flat surface to flatten (and in my experience round over the bevel edge, and probably create a convex surface, thereby adding to the work)
4. Wear out an extra coarse diamond plate quick smart, spending hours back and forth...
5. If you are really good you can use a saw makers hammer to change the convexity of the back (if you are Jim Davey that is...)
6. Wear down a coarse waterstone (have not tried this one)
7. Sell chisel and find another with better back surface

So - lets see the backside of that collection.

Cheers
Peter

now you know why am being cautious!

Originally Posted by Heavansabove

5. If you are really good you can use a saw makers hammer to change the convexity of the back (if you are Jim Davey that is...)

Hi Peter

the proper name for Jim's tool is "Pecking hammer"

Ive only seen the pecking hammer used on plane blades. Is it used on chisels?