Thread: Bevel edge chisels

Nice work. They look like they were meant to be.

How did you get such consistent bevels? Any notes on process? I've got a couple dozen firmers and no real extra bevels so I'd be curious.

That is some good looking work there. Very clean.

While I generally prefer regular firmers for most of my work - I do really like to have a few bevel edge chisels around for getting up into corners.... And when you need a bevel edge - not much else really works well.

While I can't answer for Stewie on how he did this - Derek Cohen has a tutorial on grinding side bevels on some of his chisels.

Wow! Lotta work in that lot, Stewie!

In the good old days, when things were bad, the cutlers ground the bevels on chisels freehand. They were extremely good at it, but I guess you get that way working 12 hour days for 6 days a week!

I've modified a couple of old chisels, one to make it narrower & the other to improve very skimpy side bevels. I started out trying to do the bevels freehand but it would've ended a complete mess, so I jury-rigged a holder using rare-earth magnets, which worked a lot better (I had to remove the handles). I didn't have a CBN wheel then, either, so had to take it very carefully, with lots of cooling dips.

However you go about it, prepare yourself for a long & tedious task - I admire Stewie's patience & persistence to do all four at one sitting!

Cheers,

Another effective option when adding side bevels is to use a Simonds Multi-Kut (Chip Breaker) File. Hand Files

Bevel edge chisel completed. For those that have a preference for a flat primary bevel on their chisels and plane irons, these files are very effective at removing a hollow grind.

Testing the file on stainless steel.

As a side note; I have just ordered the Sigma #120 Power Ceramic Stone from TFJ. I will provide some later feedback to the forum when I get the opportunity to test this stones performance. Sigma power ceramic stone #120 oversize. : Tools from Japan, Japanese woodworking tools direct from Japan.

I expect that you will see a much smoother cut when you chalk the file first.
Looks like a very fast cutting design.

Here I am telling you guys how good these multi files are, and today the file struggled to make any headway on a W.M. Marples Firmer chisel. (my apologies)

After annealing the steel I was able to form the side bevels with relative ease.



The process will be repeated on the remaining chisels, including flattening the full length of backs, before moving to the final stage of re hardening and tempering the steel.

Well, Stewie, you have cleared up one point for me - I was wondering how on earth you could file the lands on the first chisels with apparent ease. I thought that file of yours must be magic! . I do have a couple of old chisels that are file-able (just), but on most chisels I've tried re-working the bevels on, they were far too hard for any file I tried, except for the very top of the blade where it hadn't been hardened.

Annealing has never been an option for me, rehardening & tempering chisels with any degree of reliability is way out of my league!

Cheers,

Hi Ian; the side bevels on the 1st chisel were filed with the steel in its hardened state.



The steel on the W.M.Marples (hardened state) was too hard for this file, and required annealing to soften the steel. Looking at the specs on W1 tool steel (if that is the makeup of this steel) its likely no higher than rockwell c #60. This multi-kut file worked fine on stainless steel (rockwell c #70). Why the file would not work on the lower rockwell hardness I have no idea. Its beyond my depth of knowledge. Its been a challenging but rewarding learning kerb so far.

regards Stewie;

Stewie

I wouldn't cast too much scorn on the file. I think it is better it could not make an impression as that would have said the chisel was not up to much. As you now have a bunch of annealed chisels, I hope you will detail your hardening and tempering process as I am sure others will be most interested.

Regards
Paul

Paul; I am far from an expert on heat treating steel. I am also limited by the amount of heat can generate from a single gas heat source.

To anneal, I heat the steel until it turns blue. The steel is then allowed to slowly cool to atmospheric temperature.



When all the chisels have been filed with side bevels, and that backs worked flat, I will forward a post on how I hardened and quench the steel.

regards Stewie;

Stewie

I am with you on all that and I would add that the larger the object, the more difficult hardening becomes. Consequently the bigger chisels are even harder to maintain the heat front than the narrow versions. You may have to restrict the heat treating to just the first 50mm or so. I don't see that as an issue as it will last very many sharpenings. As well as a shorter distance the steel is thinner at that point so it will assist you. Tempering will not be an issue.

Good luck as it is an ambitious project.

Regards
Paul