Thread: Should bevel edged chisels be used with a mallet?

Al,
the rule used to be "like on like", that is, wooden handle hit with a wooden mallet. Most of the newer "splitproof" plastic handles will stand being belted with a steel hammer. I had a set of Marplesplastic handled chisels which copped my Estwing hammer for about 20 years of trade use. The plastic handles were fine, pity the same couldn't be said of the quality of the steel. Obviously the plastic handles with steel end caps need to be hit with a hammer. I prefer a hammer to a mallet in most cases, but that's probably just because that's what I'm used to.

Mick

Ok, thanks mick. I use a mallet personally, partially cause of the greater surface area, but it sounds like you could knock the wings off of a fly. Do you normally use bevel-edged chisels?

Originally Posted by Al the hobbiest

Hi. Question is pretty self explanatory. I've got a set of stanley bevel edged chisels and I've used them for all sorts of uses, Joints (mortise and tenon and dovetail), paring and the rest. But should they be used with a mallet?
Thanks, Al

most Stanley chisels, especially the newer ones, will withstand being belted with a steel hamer.

However, the same is not true for all bevel edge chisels -- it all depends on how thick the blade is and what the handle is made from.

timber handles should only be hit with a wooden mallet, and proper paring chisels only ever lightly taped -- and if you're not sure how gentle a "light tap" is then don't hit them at all.

In the good old days, like 50+ years ago, many manufacturers made a range of chisels.
For example, if you were after a 1/2in Berg chisel you could choose between a
paring chisel -- with a thin flexible blade
bevel edge chisel -- with a thicker blade and not as pronounced bevel
firmer -- where the blade is about 3/16 thick with square edges
mortise -- a really solid blade maybe 5/8in thick

the heavier chisels were available with double or single hoops and leather striking washers



ian

Originally Posted by Al the hobbiest

Ok, thanks mick. I use a mallet personally, partially cause of the greater surface area, but it sounds like you could knock the wings off of a fly. Do you normally use bevel-edged chisels?

Most of my chisels are bevelled edge. Don't know that I could knock the wings off a fly with my hammer, but I've managed to kill a few of them with it.

Mick

Ok, thanks Ian and Mick. I'm hoping that in the future I can get a better set. Something like Harold and Saxon. I like the fact that they're local and sound very good. Just tossing up between the bevel edged ones and thicker ones. Anyway. I've got a fair while of saving to do so I'll keep looking. Thanks, Al

A lot of the woodwork books assume that a bevel edged chisel is a light chisel.
In the past this was probably true... the handles would have been softer and may not have had a metal ring on the striking end.

the convention was that if it didn't have a ring on the striking end it should not be struck...........but that realy does not reflect practice.

A lot of the asumptions in the books assume softer woods......with the australian timbers we dont do anywhere near as much pairing as they would in the US or UK.

we tend to thump things more & harder, because of our harder timbers.

most of the conventions of the past have gone out the window with modern tool manufacture and use.

Stanley for instance realy only make one sort of chisel, & it has a bevel edge and more often that not thay are thumpd with a hammer

If you are looking for some nice chisels keep an eye out for old titans ( good ausie), bergs, spear & jacksons. & a variety of others.
keep your new stanlies for second best....I do.

cheers

Most modern bevel edged chisels seem to be more akin to the heavier old firmer chisels that Ian mentioned and with their bolstered shanks and shockproof plastic handles, they're definitely designed to be belted hard. I'm pretty sure if you look at the warranties, modern chisels are guaranteed against any abuse.

However, I wouldn't use any bevel edged chisel for cutting mortices; the only tool is a proper mortice chisel possibly followed by a few paring slices with a bevel edged chisel.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

..........However, I wouldn't use any bevel edged chisel for cutting mortices; the only tool is a proper mortice chisel possibly followed by a few paring slices with a bevel edged chisel.

What about a chain mortiser, hollow chisel morticer or horizontal slot morticer then?

Mick (machine junkie)

On the very odd occasion I strike a chisel with a steel hammer it is always a plastic handled chisel - my roughies.

All my good chisels I use a wooden mallet ranging from bevel edge through to mortice chisels.

It probably depends on whether you are doing building construction or finer woodwork. Chippies can't understand why I don't smash my good chisels around with a claw hammer I generally hide my chisels when Chippies are on the horizon.

On the other hand, it would be ridiculous for someone building a hardwood frame of an ordinary house using mirror finished bevel chisels and tapping them with a mallet.

Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

What about a chain mortiser, hollow chisel morticer or horizontal slot morticer then?

Mick (machine junkie)

They're machines, not tools.

I would like to add, I didn't even have a claw hammer in my shop!

Originally Posted by Woodwould

They're machines, not tools.

Things have progressed somewhat since 1798.

Mick

Hmm the average ludite building chippie ( present company excepted)can be a bit hard on chisels........ but even they hide their chisels from.....
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
plumbers

cheers

Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

Things have progressed somewhat since 1798.

Mick

In FNQ too?