Thread: First Block Plane Needed

It really depends on how much you want to spend. For quality at an affordable price - Just a moment... (unfortunately the low angle version is out of stock). If price is not important then take your pick from the Veritas or Lee Nielsen ranges.
Just noticed Timbecon have the standard angle Luban available at $109.90 at the moment, the low angle is an unattractive $159.90, but they're offering it on Ebay at $127.00 - Luban Knuckle-Cap Block Planes 12 1/2-Deg Low Angle 12 1/2 degree Hand Planes | eBay - go figure.

I can recommend the LN 102, definitely worth the money, very light and ergonomic, a pleasure to use.
My path was Cheapy from Masters that ended up in the bin, Ebay Stanley that I just couldn't make really sing, super fancy Veritas that just didn't suit my hand(sold) and finally have 2 LN block planes and much prefer the 102 of the two
Low Angle Block Plane

Originally Posted by aldav

It really depends on how much you want to spend. For quality at an affordable price - Just a moment... (unfortunately the low angle version is out of stock). If price is not important then take your pick from the Veritas or Lee Nielsen ranges.
Just noticed Timbecon have the standard angle Luban available at $109.90 at the moment, the low angle is an unattractive $159.90, but they're offering it on Ebay at $127.00 - Luban Knuckle-Cap Block Planes 12 1/2-Deg Low Angle 12 1/2 degree Hand Planes | eBay - go figure.

Its saying $159.90 on ebay?

Hi Sam. I have a few and my best all rounder (of the commonly available ones) is probably my 9 1/2. A later model Stanley but with a sharp blade and closed up mouth it works well. The design is comfortable to use and the mass (compared to something like a 102) helps control the cuts.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Its saying $159.90 on ebay?

Yep, it is now, but it wasn't when I looked.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Its finally come to the point where I definitely need a block plane. As I understand it the low angle ones are what most people go for. So can you folks recommend a good Low Angle Bock Plane which isn't too complicated to set up and can be used out of the box.....

Sam, you've had a few suggestions & are likely to get quite a few more, because everyone has their favourite block plane for different & largely personal reasons. One of the few certainties in this hand-tool business is that there's a high probability you'll change your preferences as the years go by, so my suggestion would be to start with something like a Stanley 60 1/2 (preferably an older one & hopefully at a sensible price). It fits your criterion of low-angle and is small enough for comfortable one-handed use. I was happy with mine for more than 30 years, it only got moved on because I made a couple of small LA planes that marginally out-performed it, and feel a bit nicer in the hand. Whatever you settle on, give it a fair trial and if you don't like it, you can always pass it on & try something else. By then you'll have a much better idea of what you are looking for in a block plane...

While the high-end planes may work 'out of the box' a bit better, they also blow a big hole in the tool budget! Unless you strike a lemon or a severely abused one, any of the better-known brands can be fettled to work very well if not just as well, & certainly well enough for the typical tasks a block plane is used for. Most are used for minor trim jobs and really don't need to be all that flash, a sharp blade & a reasonably close mouth are the essentials. While you can sharpen the blade with a high bevel & get reasonable results smoothing cranky grain, a single-iron plane is never going to match a well set-up double iron plane. I don't expect any 'block' plane to work as a smoother, it makes no sense to me to turn a low-angle plane into a high-angle & lose the main advantages of the LA such as low cutting resistance, particularly on end-grain. Of course you can do that, or switch between high & normal bevel blades, and it will serve in an emergency, but imo they will never match a double-iron smoother.

And be aware, if you're not already, that a low-angle, BU plane with an open mouth and a standard sharpening bevel can be a disaster running against contrary grain - it will tear out like nobody's business! So always keep the mouth closed as tightly as the wood you are working allows.

Cheers,
Ian

Thanks everyone for the advice. I know the Old Stanley Planes are much better than the present day ones and are excellent if you have the time to restore and make them true again. For now I need a block plane I don't need to do much to in as far as sharpening the blade and flattening the sole etc.

When I get myself setup with a proper sharpening system I shall be purchasing some old Stanley Planes without a doubt.

After reading alot about the Luban brand of Planes and how they have designed their's on the Stanley's Pre-World War II ones I headed to Timbecon to buy A Low Profile Knuckle-Cap Block Plane.

And A lovely thing it is aswell!.

I just realised something, the title of this thread is 'First Bock Plane Needed'... What a twat.

Just as a matter of semantics, EB, the Luban does NOT appear to have a "knuckle" cap, despite a well-known retailer describing it as such. I'm not sure anyone makes a modern version of the knuckle cap, but you can read Hans Brunner's description of the Stanley knuckle-cap here.

The same seller also lists the Luban has having an "engineered lateral adjuster with guide bearing and brass tab".
??? As far as I can see from pics of disassembled planes, it has a depth adjuster pretty much as Stanley made 'em back in the day, which does not act as a lateral adjuster the way the modified Norris adjuster does on Veritas's block planes. To make lateral adjustments you just tap the blade or loosen the thumbscrew & move it with your fingers (which imo works just as well as the stunted lever on the Veritas).

Anyway, notwithstanding the confused terminology, I'm sure you'll find your new Luban perfectly acceptable. I've used a few of their thick blades in my own projects and they are as good as any at holding an edge and the thickness does add "solidity" to the plane's action.

Have fun.....
Cheers

Originally Posted by IanW

Just as a matter of semantics, EB, the Luban does NOT appear to have a "knuckle" cap, despite a well-known retailer describing it as such. I'm not sure anyone makes a modern version of the knuckle cap,

I believe Woodriver still makes one with a proper knuckle cap.

WoodRiver Block Plane Low Angle with Preparation Service | RobCosman.com

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

To be completely transparent the last time I used a plane was back in the 90's when I made a cabinet for my dear mother with just hand tools, so I'm still getting to grips with the plane and all the adjustments.

Something that's unrelated to the block plane itself is my workbench which I built, I'm very proud to see it doesn't budge at all when planing no matter how much pressure I'm applying!.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

To be completely transparent the last time I used a plane was back in the 90's when I made a cabinet for my dear mother with just hand tools, so I'm still getting to grips with the plane and all the adjustments.

Something that's unrelated to the block plane itself is my workbench which I built, I'm very proud to see it doesn't budge at all when planing no matter how much pressure I'm applying!.

Do you mean the last time you used a Block plane was in the 90s ?
Or just a Plane ?

You recently built a small work bench which you showed here in a thread. Your saying that recent build doesn't move around when working at it? Didn't you use any planes building that?

Ive been following along on this thread and went to it a number of times and did not once notice the thread heading labeled Bock plane!.
Not until you mentioned it Ha ha. Funny that.


I couldn't really help with a comment on what block plane to buy new.
One thing I know is all the adjustments on them is something I like leaving set and forgetting if I can. Except blade projection. That always gets fiddled with.
The mouth opening though I leave and have a number of other BP's for that reason. Because I have a need for speed. .
At least two BP's is good to have . One finely set and another with a larger open set mouth for taking fast cut corners off things.
The one I use for that is just a Stanley 110 . The first BP I bought new the day I started working. It's not as good at the fine shaving and I have a need for quickly removing the Arris on every job I do. There is nothing to the 110 that can go wrong except the wheel threaded pressure adjuster maybe. A 110 would be a good one to add as a second and clean up if you see one for sale. They are a common sight on eBay.

One sort of situation having two block planes is good is like when fitting drawer bottoms or cabinet backs.
Your doing fine end grain removal at the same time as side grain and arris removal . Going from bench hook, one hand planing, to the bench vice , one or two hand planing,and you may have a pile of 6 or 12 or heaps more boards ahead of you to fit. You don't want to be fiddling around adjusting things on planes when that sort of work is ahead of you, I find.

You've probably got to find yourself in that situation first though before you think a second BP would be good.

I ended up with more than 2 BP's somehow though. . And the next step up is the timber roughing planes. Some of them huge open mouthed things I can almost poke my small finger through. They get a LOT of use in the same way a the BP's do when going for different rates of stock removal quickly.


Rob .

Originally Posted by auscab

Do you mean the last time you used a Block plane was in the 90s ?
Or just a Plane ?

Hi Rob!, Was wondering where you were!, I used a jack plane when I built mums cabinet back in the 90's. Before then it was all at school in woodwork.

Originally Posted by auscab

You recently built a small work bench which you showed here in a thread. Your saying that recent build doesn't move around when working at it? Didn't you use any planes building that?

I only used a thicknesser to mill the wood and get it to the correct thickness, because I haven't got a jointer either I had to do the shimming trick to get timber true and square which it does fantastically. I actually remember during the workbench build thread, I mentioned to you I needed some planes but that obviously got forgotten about until now.

Originally Posted by auscab

Ive been following along on this thread and went to it a number of times and did not once notice the thread heading labeled Bock plane!.
Not until you mentioned it Ha ha. Funny that.

Thats typical of me, pointing out my mistakes!, maybe I could have got away with it then.

I'll post some photo's later of my shavings, I'm still working on the coffee table ATM, long story which I'll share in the build thread.

Sam.