Thread: Block plane advice

Yep I use a scraper to remove most of it and I have one of those little Mujis that I have ground the blade convex on for hollowing a slight dish in glue joints.

Pity I missed the wood working show I could have played with an apron I'm guessing.

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

I am accursed with the wooden boat building bug so a lot of trimming, beveling often above shoulder height and on bits that have been epoxy glued which is really tough on both the blade and sole.

In that case, may I suggest you consider the LN102 in iron with an A2 steel blade.

Also, you might consider a pair of edge trimming block planes which can be fitted with custom wooden fences for edge bevelling work.

as to potential wear on the plane's sole, don't worry about it. If it really worries, you can always lap it out when you finish with building boats.
I just don't get the attitude of "reserving" a "beater plane" for rough work. A well setup plane is just so much nicer to use whether you're hogging off glue dags and rough shaping or taking fine shavings

ian, any reason for LN over Veritas? Re using a "beater" as you call em I'm inclined to agree that's why I'm sort of in the market.

I kinda thought the straight sides of the Veritas apron may be a point to consider.

I've got a stainless edge trimmer but I find it's quicker and easier to use a block and bevel by eye.

Perhaps people don't use apron planes much........

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

ian, any reason for LN over Veritas? Re using a "beater" as you call em I'm inclined to agree that's why I'm sort of in the market.

I kinda thought the straight sides of the Veritas apron may be a point to consider.

apart from owning a LM102 in iron, my main reason for refering to the LN planes is the larger number of types compared to the Veritas which makes it a little easier to refer to a number which can then be associated with a picture.
I'm not prepared to recommend one maker over the other, they both make great tools.

as to straight vs curved sides -- I don't think it matters for the apron size plane -- the most important consideration is how the plane feels in your hand doing the primary task you bought it for, in your case overhead trimming and shaping

my preference is to reach for a larger (and heavier) block plane when the task requires a block with straight sides -- some weeks I think a #9 and shooting board is just the best tool combination ever

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Perhaps people don't use apron planes much........

UKalf speaks highly of the Veritas apron plane. I haven't got one myself. I've got a DX60 but find it a bit too heavy. I've been using a boring old Stanley #110 and find it pleasant to use. I've got a Record #0120 to do up (one day ) at least that has basic iron adjustment.

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Re using a "beater" as you call em I'm inclined to agree....

I have a Record #04 with the wing broken off one side and an old Stanley iron. I use it where I'm likely to strike a nail or grit - such as first shavings off recycled timber. Or for throwing in the car when I go round to ease mother-in-law's sticking doors. I'd hate to damage a plane I'd put a lot of effort into doing up, or spent mega-bucks on.

Cheers, Vann.

Hi Mike

I don't own the Veritas Apron plane (as I have had the LN #103 from long before the Apron was on offer), but have heard wonderful praise about it. The bronze LN #103 is one of my favourite planes. In fact it may be what you are looking for - not too light (it has a lot of heft/power in its small size) but balanced and a great performer. Why the #103 (standard angle) and not the #102 (low angle)? Well I thought I was buying the #102 (should have been wearing my reading glasses!). As it turned out, this was the correct choice. A standard angle plane is far better for edge trimming and bevelling, etc than a low angle plane, which can induce tear out on hardwoods. Low angle is only better for end grain.

Now you can get the low angled #102 or Apron plane and simply hone the blade with a higher bevel.

The only feature missing from these planes is an adjustable mouth, but you will not miss it in this type of plane.





The alternative is one of the Veritas planes (DX or LABP) or the LN (#60 1/2). Here is a review/comparison of all:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...lockPlane.html



Regards from Perth

Derek

Many thanks for the info and comments gentlemen.

Thinking about the purchase is nearly as much fun as making it.

Cheers

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Many thanks for the info and comments gentlemen.

Thinking about the purchase is nearly as much fun as making it.

Cheers

If you are still undecided I have a quantity of Stanley 060's (6 1/4)
that are brand new but have been tuned and are razor sharp ready to go. They are surplus to requirements as they were bought and fully fettled for my current students.

If you wish and want to save a lot of time and money you can have one for $150.00 including postage. I'll go one step further, if you don't like it return it for a full refund. I have used mine for the past 25+ years. I also own a Veritas NX60 but the Stanley get most of the workouts NX60 gets used for Pose value only!!


Cheers


Steve

Thanks Steve, I've ordered the Veritas apron nearly went for the DX and procrastinated over the LN but thought the LN would feel lonely and unwelcome sitting amongst a bunch of Veritas planes.

Cheers

My Veritas DX-60 arrived yesterday - a thing of beauty

In the end I just got the standard blade that came with it. Did my usual flattening the back of the blade on 4000 and 8000 waterstones, but I have to say it hardly needed it. I then put a 27 degree microbevel on it as recommended in the instructions, and finally did the old David Charlesworth ruler trick on the back of the blade.

Result? Absolutely awesome performance, and it has an excellent feel in the hand. Perfect size for me, and very nicely weighted.

First I tried edge planing some rock maple, and the block plane left a positively shiny surface. Is it possible to have a surface finish off the plane that is too glossy to accept finish??? I then sampled some end grain on a few different timbers, also with fantastic results. The end grain was left absolutely glassy in appearance.

In standard form this block plane does everything I could ask of it. I was planning to get an extra blade to experiment with bevel angles for different applications, but for the time being I can't see the point.

Congratulations Mr. Brush

A bloke just wondered in to deliver my new block plane, ah the wonders of modern communication. I ordered the apron from Lee Valley 5 days ago almost instant response from their sales department to confirm shipping details.
I requested UPS which is fairly expensive but I have found in the past the service is excellent and they certainly did not disappoint this time they excelled.

With a sense of anticipation I opened the box to find a beaut wee plane and the leather holster so now I'm set up for some quick draw beveling. Thanks Lee Valley

Mike - that's Lee Valley for you, instant gratification.... . Their aim is to minimise the time between the drool hitting the page of the catalogue and the item appearing in your shed !

I used UPS for the first time on this order too, as for some reason post (airfreight) from Canada is more expensive than the UPS option. This is weird; normally, buying from US based suppliers, the standard US post (airmail) option is always cheapest and gets here in just a few days.

The amusing thing about UPS is the detailed tracking all the way to the port of entry in Australia (Mascot for me), then you get ''received by local agent", then nothing at all until it turns up in a courier van 2 days later. The black and gold UPS vans don't come out here to country NSW - do they even still have them in the city?

No complaints with the service though - I'll certainly use UPS next time I order from Lee Valley.

Presumably the quick draw holster is for when something needs planing right NOW?

Enjoy your new toy !!