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  1. #31
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    FF - I think you put it particularly well - in terms of rotation of the bed orientation to the left in the base plane of the plane.

    Also it is pretty funny that guys that just want to plane wood will be screaming and kicking cats at this discussion

    I was picturing it differently, but this stupid 2cent modelling convinces (me at least) that rotation of the bed slope sideways is equivalent to rotation (roll) of the bed along its forward axis.
    (screwdriver is the forward direction)

    skew bed 003.jpg skew bed 002.jpg

    In any case, as I understand it, it seems that your cutting edge still lies in the plane of the base? - hence the uniform shaving?
    So it is as if (in a sense) the side wall of the plane has stopped the bed of your plane from rotating around further?

    I hadn't thought about shaping the moving section to match, but I thought you could steal from the Veritas reference. If not a grub screw on the RHS to help locate your blade, why not an oversize blob of epoxy on the RHS wall that you can trim away until it puts your blade in just the right orientation each time.
    (Or regrind the blade to match the skew)

    Have fun.
    Paul

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  3. #32
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    Well I think I may have it wired Paul. See how there's no gap (or a poofteenth at best) on the left? It's the same story up the butt end of the blade on the right. So, I believe that I just have to set it at max skew and may just a tiny tap, and that's my reference point - which is what I've been seeking. Trying to remember how much out of parallel (in error) to set it was giving me the heebie jeebies.

    And I think that N...N...Nick's suggestion of making the front of the mouth parallel, leave the back alone, will work well. If it doesn't then Tony (NCA) may have to duck when he arrives on the 5th. Unless of course he has some lubbly jubbly timber under his wing for me, or some wiring diagrams for my Barn, or maybe one of his spare block planes, or.... Jeez the choices are endless.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  4. #33
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    No ducking necessary. My cat like, ninja reflexes will allow me to pluck the plane from the air and place it gently on the freebie table for a deserving woodworker to rat it for parts.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  5. #34
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    Err, freebie table? Not while I'm still walking pal.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    So, I believe that I just have to set it at max skew and may just a tiny tap, and that's my reference point - which is what I've been seeking. Trying to remember how much out of parallel (in error) to set it was giving me the heebie jeebies.
    Great!
    Wait until you've sharpened it down a bit ... hehehe ...

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post

    Also it is pretty funny that guys that just want to plane wood will be screaming and kicking cats at this discussion


    Have fun.
    Paul
    Especially if we started doing the math on the angle of the mouth relative to the skew of the blade etc

  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Evening all

    I have a Woodriver Block Plane, which for the cost of it, is a beauty (the surface it leaves is immaculate).

    However, there is a problem with the mouth:


    snip

    What say you?
    What say I?

    Bret, you worry too much

    The plane works? -- very well you say

    the slight skew to the mouth causes a problem? -- I think you said no


    I can't see a problem
    the plane works as intended, just enjoy using it
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #38
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    You may well be right Ian, although I think it's not so much "worry" as "retain" .

    Anyway the dilemma was the setting of it, and thanks to all the participants/hasslers it made me do a few things, and find that the setting is actually pretty easy (I just couldn't handle it being so far out of whack, and so never went that far).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  10. #39
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    Default A Block Plane dilemma

    I though you said on your hourly rate wrapping a plane blade in cardboard wasn't cost effective... You could have had a solid gold, vintage, in it's original box ANYTHING! by now.

    ...I'll just make the other bits smaller.

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berlin View Post
    I though you said on your hourly rate wrapping a plane blade in cardboard wasn't cost effective... You could have had a solid gold, vintage, in it's original box ANYTHING! by now.

    Weeeelll yeeaahh, but I've already got it, see. Nothing like a challenge.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  12. #41
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    Why not just put it in the oven?
    Cheers,

    Eddie

  13. #42
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    Default 11 days late

    This is my woodriver low angle block plane that came via the normal australian trade route

    Note how the mouth is square here:
    IMG_0414.jpg

    Here:
    IMG_0416.JPG

    and here:

    IMG_0417.JPG

    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #43
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    Huh! Anyone can have one of them!

    I reckon that the fella in China sent out working seconds actually. Apparently he offered a 10% discount without being asked - that's deeply suspicious, esp from China!
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  15. #44
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    no math needed. set the blade slightly out the mouth with the adjuster in the middle. now lap the sole until the blade is flush. regrind the bevel following the new leading edge. now file the front of the mouth parallel that. use it, and never, ever approach that plane with a square in hand again.

  16. #45
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    Several ways to skin a cat bridger, and that's one of them. It is, however, the most labour intensive! It'd take bloody ages to grind the sole down, and in the mean time, it'd grind the soul down. Furthermore, I think that having the whole body that far out of whack would disturb me even more than the current fix!
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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