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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Bundaberg
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    Default Re-habbed Lie Nielsen backsaw

    A few weeks ago I purchased a 2nd hand 14” LN backsaw from Salko Safic (Section 1); the reason it was let go was because the teeth had been professionally sharpened… quite badly … and Salko didn’t feel up to restoring it back to the original filing.

    73D691D8-B371-4D1D-9CBD-2258BF4B472D.jpg 65356BEA-EF3A-4907-AEA7-69FEECEB1944.jpg

    It was originally filed as a 13TPI crosscut and from what I have been able to glean online is that the rake and fleam angles should be 15 degrees each. I expected to have to joint the saw so far that the existing teeth would essentially disappear; effectively re-toothing it. However once I’d jointed down to just kiss the lowest teeth I could see that at although the tooth shape was sub-optimal they could be brought back into line.

    5C3E14D6-5937-40D0-9A7E-53F629C12B99.jpg

    So armed with a few new Pferd files bought specially for this job I began the slow task of trying to regain the original shape. The first couple of passes on each side brought the teeth back to a semblance of originality, but I knew beforehand I’d be jointing at least once more.

    9CA5955F-0351-41CD-80E9-E2FB0B02A43C.jpg

    Second jointing; much less metal removal needed this time:

    6FFADF29-74B0-4DFF-A5CD-9485CD9A8BD4.jpg

    Finished profile:

    54577F92-A925-4C4C-ADF9-86B1C43B019C.jpg

    Still have the odd buck tooth here and there but overall a much improved bit of dentition. It appears that I also inadvertently gave the teeth very slightly sloping gullets due to sloppy file control in the vertical plane! I decided to stop here, measure the remaining set and see how it performs. In his book on sharpening Thomas Lie Nielsen recommends that as little as 2 thou of set is sufficient; I measured around 7 so I wasn’t expecting it to bind badly, if at all. I was pleasantly surprised that my first cut through a 30mm thick piece of redgum showed a pretty clean cut but with a tiny bit of drift to starboard. I had cut a knife wall which helped start the cut cleanly but in the photo below looks like a 2nd saw kerf at first glance:

    54BBC025-D6D5-4675-B986-85B7CDC8E209.jpg

    To correct the drift I ran a fine slipstone one pass only down the offending side and made a new cut. It was better but still wasn’t keeping an exact straight line. I allowed one more pass only with the stone with the intention of returning to the files if unsuccessful.

    85130D04-EFF0-4F87-B689-1BA9F5E6FD6E.jpg

    Much happier with this last cut! As it was getting late I didn’t bother cutting another set of knife walls but simply tried to follow the marked line; I’m happy that this time the deviation from the line was caused by my technique rather than the blade wandering as there was no hint of binding with over 3” of blade in the cut with pretty finely set teeth.

    So; I’m going to leave as is for now. I now have a saw that is cutting smoothly with teeth that although they wouldn’t pass the Wilkie Test for dental comeliness at least they would no longer make a Tasmanian orthodontist wince. I’m expecting that subsequent sharpenings should improve the teeth a tiny bit more each time.

    Thanks for watching!
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Default

    Chief, I think that is a remarkably good effort for someone who hasn't done a lot of saw filing. I once had a 15tpi saw sharpened 'professionally' & it came back looking pretty horrible, but your saw takes the prize for the worst result I've ever laid eyes on!

    When the teeth are as higgily-piggily as yours were, I would typically need to joint twice to get the teeth back in proper shape, so you done well, I reckon. I find it far easier to concentrate on one angle at a time when re-forming crosscut teeth, so if extensive dental work is necessary, rather than try to preserve any fleam, I file straight across from one side which makes it easier to watch & compare the teeth - trying to judge sizes of adjacent teeth quickly with the fleam causing optical delusions is too much for my simple brain. Once I have the teeth back in shape, it's a lot easier to apply the fleam without messing things up. If all is well, I then set the teeth and follow with a light 'sharpen' pass.

    With such a shocker, it's almost inevitable you'll still have the odd fat or skinny tooth, but as long as the majority are even & in-line, the saw should cut well. A 'trick' one of my uncles used after sharpening was to make a couple of cuts in a really hard wood like blue-gum or ironbark, as he claimed it would "wear down the high ones". I'm not sure if it's all that effective in a couple of cuts (though high teeth certainly do wear down in time & show up as shiny flats), but maybe it cleans off the burrs from the file quicker & gives an impression of more smoothness. However, I find that making test cuts in harder woods very quickly shows how sharp the saw is & how well it's tracking, so I always look for the toughest bit of scrap to test a freshly-sharpened saw.

    And please don't use me as a gold standard! I haven't been toothing/sharpening saws that much over the last couple of years & trust me, I have my off days. Especially when I try to do a quick touch-up on a crosscut and don't concentrate enough, I can easily end up with a couple of slightly over-fed cows or under-fed calves in the mob. But take heart, all you hesitant saw filers, a saw can be a little imperfect and still cut very well....

    Ian
    IW

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,136

    Default

    Chief

    I will echo Ian's comments.

    1.A set of badly mis-shapened teeth will often require more than a single jointing, but this can be done before you have reached the final shape as it is quite obvious that the profile is not quite right.
    2. When a compete re-tooth or close to re-tooth is required, as in your case, it is ultimately easier to shape first and then apply the fleam, although you will frequently be tempted to do this at one go.
    3. After setting the teeth, the geometry has been ever so slightly altered so the finishing, light filing is the final touch.

    Overall a good restoration of a saw from one of the best, commercial, modern makers.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,893

    Default

    Hi CT and Ian. I feel a lot better about my saw sharpening now

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