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Thread: Bow saw blades
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15th July 2021, 06:56 AM #91
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15th July 2021 06:56 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th July 2021, 07:46 AM #92GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Matt and Paul. You gentlemen are too kind! Thanks. I was going to make a lame joke about the speed of the operator and his powerful sawyers arm but your explanation is far more likely.
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15th July 2021, 09:16 AM #93
Nah, stick with your own explanation, MA, sounds more plausible to me....
Can't say I've ever noticed what sort of temperature a bowsaw blade gets to in typical use. I know it'll get very warm if I force a dull blade through a tight curve, but that's understandable. Have never caused any scorch marks yet....
You'll soon figure out what set & tpi work best for the tasks you use it for. If mainly straight cuts or very gentle curves, it doesn't need any more set than you'd have on a backsaw of the same tpi, but if you want to cut tighter curves, it need a more generous amount of set to allow the blade a bit of extra room to twist in the kerf.
When I first started using a small bowsaw I found it difficult to keep the blade square in the cut around curves & the tighter the curve, the more difficult it was. Cutting out a saw handle or the back of a plane tote is a good example, the saw I use for that has a blade about 4mm wide. The first few handles I cut were pretty odd-looking things, not only were my cuts out of square but high & low sides of the cut reversed as the curves went from concave to convex. I spent more time squaring up than sawing it out!
Cheers,
IanIW
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15th July 2021, 04:24 PM #94
My Evolution
Hi MA
My first bow saw was quite similar to yours except that I used a threaded rod rather than tightening cords. Definitely not as pretty!
Initially I tried to saw holding the "handle" but found that this was very unstable. My left hand automatically migrated to the frame above the "handle" to steady it.
Bow Saw 3.JPG
Then I found that I could grip it like Ian says above and could use it single handed. Since then, things have evolved:
Saw 2, I only put a "handle" on one end, and experimented holding it on either end and also rotating the blade using it as both a push saw and a pull saw. I found that I prefered to push saw holding the end without the handle. (As I use Japanese saws more, I may change my mind on this.)
Saw 3, no "handles" - marginally lighter and I thought it looked better. Realised function of "handle" was to rotate the blade. But I rarely rotated the blade.
Saw 4, mounted the blade directly into slots in the frame. This gives "firmer" blade placement, very simple and functional, but the blade cannot be rotated. It is my preference so far.
Bow Saw 2.JPG
Qualifier. But recently I have revisited videos by Tage Frid and Frank Klausz where they cleared dovetails very quickly using a bow saw with a 90° twist in the blade. I cannot twist the blade with this design. The quest continues.
PS: As one does not hold the bow saw by the "handle" it is probably more correct nomenclature to call it a "knob".
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15th July 2021, 06:17 PM #95GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Ian and Graeme. As suggested I did smooth out the "handle" part of the frame but I didn't find it that uncomfortable to used the turned "knob". Admittedly I only made 2 test cuts but I do use a coping saw an awful lot and there is only one way to hold the cast frame version I have. I might try a little more set, I only put a small amount on
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15th July 2021, 06:43 PM #96
Graeme, I read an article by Frank K. in FWW many years ago, showing how to 'doctor' the blade to perform that little trick of cutting the sides & bottoms of the sockets in one continuous cut. I rushed to my workshop & modified a blade & tried it. The results were worse than woeful! I tried quite a few times & got marginally better, but never anything approaching the neat fit Klausz managed with such nonchalance. I gave up & went back to the way we were taught in school. I'm convinced those blokes must've spent a good part of their apprenticeships mastering that one technique....
Cheers,
IanIW
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17th July 2021, 05:12 PM #97
It seems that Tage Frid held his bow saw in a similar grip to Ian - similar but not identical
Bow Saw - Tage Frid.jpg (Source: FWW Magazine, Jan-Feb 1996, p.81.)
Frank Klausz held his bow saw in quite a different manner, but still firmly by the frame.
Bow Saw - Frank Klausz.jpg (Source: FWW Magazine, Sept-Oct 1979, p.56.)
But, of course, we do not know if they always held the saw in the same manner, or if they varied their grip for the task in hand.
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18th July 2021, 10:12 AM #98GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Graeme. Great photos. I wonder what sort of cord Frank Klausz has used. It likes pretty thick.
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18th July 2021, 11:15 AM #99
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18th July 2021, 01:31 PM #100
No idea, MA; the cord looks to be flat which is consistent with Ian's suuggestion that it might be raw hide.
I went back to the original source and the photo was no clearer. Back in 1979 FWW Magazine published with low resolution black and white photos, not the full colour hi-res stuff we are now used to.
But you can see how they grip the bow saws, which was to subject of the posting.
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18th July 2021, 07:25 PM #101GOLD MEMBER
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19th July 2021, 12:41 PM #102GOLD MEMBER
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Funnily enough, using the bowsaw this morning, I "naturally" gripped the frame between thumb and pointer. I think this forum is influencing me subconsciously
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