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Thread: Brace Fanatics

  1. #136
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    Default Feeding Forstners.

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    ...if you drill a small pilot hole for the point, the cutters will bite more easily & the bit will cut with far less pressure...
    I always do this. A 3mm drill bit makes a good pilot hole for the Forstner.

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW
    Hi Mike, most likely one cutter has been filed back a bit more than the other...
    As I watched that video, I wondered if that brace-induced slight wobble was feeding one cutter in, while holding the other back?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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  3. #137
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ......As I watched that video, I wondered if that brace-induced slight wobble was feeding one cutter in, while holding the other back?....
    Good point. What I'd do to test Vann's theory is mark which cutter is cutting freely, then turn the bit 180 in the chuck. If the opposite cutter now cuts well & the other doesn't, diagnosis confirmed. If the same cutter still cuts & the same one still clogs, it's back to making sure the sharp edges of the cutters are level...

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #138
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
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    Default

    I gave my two Forstners a run, the one without centre point went well, the other not so good. From the look and feel of the edges I can tell no difference in sharpness. Even with a 3mm pilot hole the c/p one needed a heap of pressure to cut a hole. After a few practice runs I managed to get the non c/p doing a good job, as in the photo, and though the shavings appeared to want to clog it spat them out ok.

    Of course on this BRACECENTRIC thread it is only polite to ID the brace you're using and in my case it's a Tough Major proudly WA made.
    Mike I'd hazard a guess you're using a Stanley 945 - 10in....?

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
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  5. #139
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boringgeoff View Post
    I gave my two Forstners a run, the one without centre point went well, the other not so good. From the look and feel of the edges I can tell no difference in sharpness. Even with a 3mm pilot hole the c/p one needed a heap of pressure to cut a hole. After a few practice runs I managed to get the non c/p doing a good job, as in the photo, and though the shavings appeared to want to clog it spat them out ok.
    Glad to hear it is working
    Of course on this BRACECENTRIC thread it is only polite to ID the brace you're using and in my case it's a Tough Major proudly WA made.
    Mike I'd hazard a guess you're using a Stanley 945 - 10in....?

    [/QUOTE]
    Yes sorry for my lake of manners
    Sorry Geoff no cigar this time it is a SAMSON Made in the USA.
    DSC02384.jpgDSC02386.jpgDSC02388.jpgDSC02389.jpg

    and my only other brace is this unmarked fellow.

    DSC02390.jpg

    I would like to get my hands on a nice small brace for driving screws etc, I seen one in a shop yesterday but i'm not paying $35 for one. (call me cheap).

    Mike

  6. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boringgeoff View Post
    .....I gave my two Forstners a run, the one without centre point went well, the other not so good. From the look and feel of the edges I can tell no difference in sharpness. Even with a 3mm pilot hole the c/p one needed a heap of pressure to cut a hole......
    Geoff, rim sharpness is as important as cutter sharpness with these things. Maybe the rims on your C/P bit need a touch-up?

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Good point. What I'd do to test Vann's theory is mark which cutter is cutting freely, then turn the bit 180 in the chuck. If the opposite cutter now cuts well & the other doesn't, diagnosis confirmed. If the same cutter still cuts & the same one still clogs, it's back to making sure the sharp edges of the cutters are level...

    Cheers,
    Well done Vann and Ian that is exactly what is happening, Tested using Ian's method this afternoon the cutting side is always on the side that the handle is on regardless of the orientation of the bit.

    Mike

  8. #142
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
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    Mike, I was sure it was a Stanley but there you go, you can't win them all, I've never come across the Samson brand. I found one similar to your "unmarked fellow' in my spare parts/unknown pile which is unmarked apart from "British Made Patents Pending" in a circle on the top of the head.
    The trouble with the smaller sweep braces is they usually are more expensive, probably because they're less common but the "cuteness" factor also plays a major part.
    Ian, I'm sure you're right about the sharpness of the one bit compared to the other, I need to buy a slim stone that I can give it touch up and see if it improves.
    Cheers,
    Geoff.

  9. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by code4pay View Post
    Well done Vann and Ian that is exactly what is happening, Tested using Ian's method this afternoon the cutting side is always on the side that the handle is on regardless of the orientation of the bit.
    I guess the question now is what to do about that. I'd imagine trying to bend the brace to better centre the handle (head?) inline with the chuck, is a hit and miss operation - more likely to end up with a damaged brace, than success?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #144
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    Default

    What happens when the bit is turned 90°?

  11. #145
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Colin62 View Post
    What happens when the bit is turned 90°?
    Good thought! Just tried it out and I can't get it quite at 90 degrees to the handle because the way the bit sits in the chuck. The side that is slightly closer to the handle is still doing most of the cutting. The brace it self looks pretty straight. So I don't think that is the issue.

  12. #146
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    Default

    I'm not really worried about it. It does what I need it for.

  13. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boringgeoff View Post
    The trouble with the smaller sweep braces is they usually are more expensive, probably because they're less common but the "cuteness" factor also plays a major part.

    Geoff.
    I have thought about cutting a larger one down and rewelding it, I can't see why that won't work.

  14. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boringgeoff View Post
    .... I need to buy a slim stone that I can give it touch up and see if it improves....
    Geoff, unless you've got a HSS bit, the cutters can be filed with an ordinary auger-bit file. I sometimes polish up the edge left by the file with a fine diamond paddle, but tbh, it doesn't seem to make any difference to how well it cuts (in the DP). You might be able to feel the effect of a better edge using it in a brace.

    Sharpening rims is the challenge. I made a suitable scraper by grinding down an old chainsaw file. It takes a bit of practice, but if you get the angle & pressure right, you can peel off a thin, even shaving of metal surprisingly easily. Just watch you don't slip at the wrong moment - I can attest that a sharp metal scraper does the same sort of damage to pinkies as a chisel!

    Cheers,
    IW

  15. #149
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
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    Mike, it should be feasible to cut a brace down and reweld it, probably modify one that has steel handle retainers rather than lead. I've attached a photo of a Holt whimble I bought on eBay a few years ago. When it arrived I found it was a cut and shut with a piece of rod added to make a brace into a whimble. The heat from welding had melted the lead retainers and the modifier had had to reform them.

    Ian, I'll have a go at touching the rim of that bit up with a file and see how I go.
    Cheers,
    Geoff.
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  16. #150
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    Geoff

    This video might be of interest:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDEyDKj2R9U

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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