Thread: Building and buying hand saw parts / kits

Sorry no answers just a question, Are Wenzloff the only known commercial suppliers for blades/saw hardware?

Hi pampelmuse looks like its just you and me for the moment.(Said one blind man to the other)
Did some googling:
Gramercy sell a dovetail saw kit and a carcase saw kit. They also sell the 7/16 ' nuts at 11.95 a pair and a split nut driver. Also a bow saw kit

if you want spring steel only it can be bought from Blue-Tempered Steel Shim Stock. This would mean a bit of a learning curve filing teeth from scratch but can be done.

Originally Posted by Pac man

Slotted vs folded back ? Does the size of the slotted back detemine how much usable blade is exposed?

Hi PC,

slotted is easier to fit in the mortise because the sides are parallel. Usually 1/4" of the blade vanishes in the spine.

Originally Posted by Pac man

And handles do i pick one i like and start from there ? How do i determine an appropriate hang angle?

There is a good discussion of the hang angle at the saw blog. Don’t Hang Yourself: Tote angles change your saw… « The Saw Blog

You'll find a lot of patterns on Ray's backsaw.net and a few on my blog, too: Old Ladies: Saegenmuseum

Originally Posted by Pac man

Is there anything else i should know apart from building saws is a terrible affliction close to PAS (plane acquiring syndrome).

I've collected a few saw making tutorials:

Old Ladies: Sägenbau - Saw making

Cheers Pedder

Just give it a go. A lot of the questions answer themselves as you do it. Even if the first go is not right you are on the learning curve. If you get a kit with the teeth already cut then the saw is almost made. As for angle of dangle, if the first handle is not right then make another. You can't stop at one anyhow. My first one not happy with the teeth but it still cuts really good. Still working on No2.Ugly as sin, but
Regards
John

Originally Posted by Pac man

.......
And handles do i pick one i like and start from there ? How do i determine an appropriate hang angle?

Hi Pac man, I've been out of action for a coupple of weeks, so this is a late reply.

If I'm trying out a new style of handle, I always make a mock-up from scrap, then cut a fine slot so that the blade will stay put when squeezed into it. You can then hold the saw at the level it will be most commonly used at (i.e. close to the bench surface, or up higher, as when cutting dovetails). If your wrist is in the neutral position with the tooth line parallel to the work, that's a good angle. Draw a line on the top of the cheeks parallel to the top of the blade, and adjust the handle pattern accordingly, if necessary. If you don't have a sufficiently fine saw to cut a tight slot, a small clamp across the cheeks should hold the blade firmly enough while you check the grip angle.

It's interesting how a few degrees difference in grip angle makes a huge difference to the percieved comfort of the saw, so I think it's a worthwhile exercise to get it right for yourself. Making a mock-up is also good practice before you embark on the real thing.

Originally Posted by Pac man

.......
Is there anything else i should know apart from building saws is a terrible affliction close to PAS (plane acquiring syndrome).

Nope - if you have even a slightly obsessive personality, you are entering very dangerous territory! (or should that be )

Cheers,

Thanks Pedder ( who knew you could spend hours looking at old ladies?), John and Ian for your replies and for pointing me the right direction.

I will get on and have a go (as per you suggestion John) and order some things from Mike Wensloff and let you know how I get on.


Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Pac man

who knew you could spend hours looking at old ladies?

I've programm that shows me from where people are linked to my page. Sometimes I get read ears, when I read, what they had looked for on google: old+ ladies +...Agghhhhh

It got even worse, after I published an entry about this little decorativ element on the front of some old hand saws.

Cheers
Pedder

Hi All,

I found a potential new source for saw plate..

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...id=1&top_cat=0

Haven't checked out postage costs, but I'll investigate further..

I still have a limited amount of slit brass, if anyone want's some send me a PM..


Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by IanW

Making a mock-up is also good practice before you embark on the real thing.

Ian,

Do you think the use of a sliding bevel would help in determining the appropriate hang angle?

A simple process of placing some timber in the vice to the height you are comfortable sawing. Grabbing hold of the sliding bevel's blade (in replacement to a saw handle) and placing the bevel's handle against the end grain of the secured timber. Thus giving you the opportunity to adjust the angle of the bevel to your desired level of comfort.

Regards,

Denim

Originally Posted by Denim

.......A simple process of placing some timber in the vice to the height you are comfortable sawing. Grabbing hold of the sliding bevel's blade (in replacement to a saw hangle) and placing the bevel's handle against the end grain of the secured timber. Thus giving you the opportunity to adjust the angle of the bevel to your desired level of comfort.

Hi Denim - a simple method that has never occurred to me , but which sounds perfectly sensible & logical. An excellent idea, and easy to transfer the desired angle to your handle drawing.

I guess I've always done mock-ups when trying a new style of handle, or one for a differently-shaped blade, because I'm usually checking more than the hang angle alone. For example, a few mm difference in the thickness of the stock makes a big difference to the comfort of the grip, so I like to check how that feels. If I decide it needs to be wider or narrower, I can make a note to cut well outside the template line, or trim a couple of mm off the template.

Another area to check is the finger-room between grip & the rear of the cheeks. I like to keep my handles as compact as posible, so that the handle & functional bits are as close as can be, so it's advisable to check that there is enough clearance for the digits. For example, the more vertical grip as on a dovetail handle, closes this area up a bit, so if you are modifying a handle that worked well as a carcase saw, it pays to check that you still have plenty of finger room. You can get some idea by holding the template, of course, but I've found that what seems ok on a template isn't always so for the thicker handle.

Now that I have a little experience, I can usualy design a handle that will be in the ball-park, and I don't bother with mock-ups when working off a template I know is "good". However, I still find it comforting to make a handle from scrap if trying anything 'new', & especially if I plan to use the last remaining piece of a very precious bit of wood!

Cheers,