Building a Strike Block Plane

**derekcohen** · 1st April 2013, 05:54 PM

Over the past few weekends I have been busily building planes for the forthcoming Perth LN Tool Event. In past years I have demonstrated joint-making with handtools (OK, in the land of the blind ...). This year I shall be demonstrating plane building.

I thought it pertinent that I take along some new planes (some for demonstration and a few to sell). To this end I have so far completed 11 planes (it sounds grander than it really is - there are 5 router planes, 2 Krenov smoothers, and 3 Krenov block planes). I am just waiting on a few parts, plus have one more to complete (a solid body coffin smoother), and then I shall post pictures.

This is a solid body strike block plane. Why did I choose this particular plane to build? It is not as though I am low on planes for shooting. However I wanted one to dedicate to my ramped shooting board. Plus I enjoy using woodies, and my eventual plan is to fill a tool cabinet with planes I have made.

The strike block is a bevel down plane with a low cutting angle designed for shooting end grain. It is an alternative to a mitre plane, which achieves the same cutting angle from a bevel up orientation.

Were we discussing metal planes, there would be no question that the bevel up plane has the advantage of achieving a low cutting angle. Take for example both the Lee Valley and the Lie-Nielsen BU Jack. Built in strong and durable ductile iron, there is no difficulty in building in a 12-degree bed. Add a 25 degree bevel, and the result is a 37 degree cutting angle. This is great for planing end grain.

Wood is not a strong enough medium for low bevel planes. A 12-degree wooden bed is vulnerable. Building a 20 degree bed, while stronger, does not offer any advantage over a common angle (45 degree) bevel down plane. The strike block plane provides the low cutting angle by having a bed between 35 – 40 degrees.

Larry Williams (Old Street Tools) suggests that strike block planes fell out of favour in the 18th Century owing to the casual sharpening techniques of the day. His view is that it is imperative to maintain a clearance angle of a minimum of 10 degrees. Consequently, unless the bevel is maintained at about 25 degrees, a strike block plane may run out of clearance angle and stop cutting.

The plane build here is based on a bed of 38 degrees. This should provide the same performance as a low angle bevel up plane with a 12 degree bed. The overall dimensions are a 14” length (that comes from the Old Street version), with a 2 ½” wide x 2 1/8” high body. The blade is 2 1/8” wide, tapered and laminated high carbon steel.

I have used Jarrah for the strike block plane, mainly as it is a dense and heavy wood, and I have a good supply of dry, salvaged roofing trusses. The wedge is White Oak.

There is a steel strike button (more durable than wood) ...

The underside shows the brass mouth ...

A close up (because someone will ask anyway

) ...

This is where it will work (although it will also be useful for cross flattening panels) ...

And .. yes .. it works very nicely. Easy shavings in 1/2" Jarrah endgrain ...

There is a step-by-step record of the build on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...lockPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

**Berlin** · 1st April 2013, 11:06 PM

Great looking plane Derek

I just happened to have read the post on your site and instantly added it to my to-do list. It looks fantastic with the shooting board too.

The only thing I would say is that I wouldn't be so unequivocal about low angle beds in wooden planes. I have been using mine for a while now and haven't molly coddled it and it's still trucking along happily. Granted it's not 12 degrees but it is less than 15.

I think perhaps low angled woodies just had to wait for antipodean building material.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364817978.602972.jpg

Cheers
Matt

**FenceFurniture** · 1st April 2013, 11:19 PM

Lovely work Derek!. You haven't told us about the strike button though....what's it for?

**artme** · 1st April 2013, 11:24 PM

Nice looking and effective tools DereK!!!

**derekcohen** · 1st April 2013, 11:31 PM

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Lovely work Derek!. You haven't told us about the strike button though....what's it for?

Hi Brett

Thanks.

The strike button is for adjusting the blade. I installed a microswitch under it, but it is sticking a bit, and so I am forced to use a hammer.

When you strike the button, the wedge loosens and the blade retracts. Really!

When you want the blade to project a little more, I say "Lynndy, strike the blade a smidgeon for me". She usually does this a little too much (she is heavy handed, like her mother), and so I have to use the strike button again.

Got to fix the microswitch.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**QuarkVI** · 2nd April 2013, 09:33 AM

Thanks Derek,

Your timing is impeccable - just this weekend I decided I need to make a wooden plane. After some more pondering it had to be a dedicated plane for a shooting board - with some UHMW plastic tape on one side to help with wear and tear.

Now at least I have a set of plans to clone

) Though I may stick with a krenov style build to simplify things.

cheers
Robin

**IanW** · 2nd April 2013, 10:11 PM

A nice neat little unit, Derek, & obviously does the job well, too!

Those wedge abutments look perfect, but you glossed over their construction - any new 'secrets' learned in the making of this one, or was it just careful layout and execution (& sweat!)?

And tsk, tsk, why didn't you dovetail that bit of brass into the sole?

Finally, (a serious question) - how deep is the strike-button embedded in the body? I left this feature off the few woodies I've made, and so far they are ok as long as I hit them with a wooden mallet, but I've been thinking I really should include them.

Cheers,

**RayG** · 2nd April 2013, 10:28 PM

Originally Posted by Derek

Got to fix the microswitch.

Flat battery perhaps...

Nice work Derek, your usual high standard is an inspiration,

I see a perfect opportunity to put one or two of the forum M2 plane blades into service.

Regards
Ray

**Sawdust Maker** · 2nd April 2013, 10:29 PM

Very elegant plane!

and it was a pleasure to meet you over in Perth the other night

**NCArcher** · 2nd April 2013, 10:40 PM

Originally Posted by RayG

I see a perfect opportunity to put one or two of the forum M2 plane blades into service.
Regards
Ray

My thoughts exactly Ray. That is the main reason I purchased some of the last batch of blades. Just need a suitable piece of timber now. Would love to find a bit of gidgee the right size.

Great job Derek, and, as usual, a great write up as well.

You have inspired me

**JDarvall** · 3rd April 2013, 06:48 AM

very nice, and like the adjustment options you've got going in the shooting board.

**derekcohen** · 3rd April 2013, 11:51 PM

Originally Posted by IanW

......
Those wedge abutments look perfect, but you glossed over their construction - any new 'secrets' learned in the making of this one, or was it just careful layout and execution (& sweat!)?

And tsk, tsk, why didn't you dovetail that bit of brass into the sole?

Finally, (a serious question) - how deep is the strike-button embedded in the body? I left this feature off the few woodies I've made, and so far they are ok as long as I hit them with a wooden mallet, but I've been thinking I really should include them.

Cheers,

Hi Ian

The abutments needed a little tuning, but setting up the saw cut with the guide (mini "blade/wedge") made the task easier. I've been building a coffin smoother. This uses a 1 3/4" blade, and there is too little space for the flush cut saw. I have had to use a coping saw via the mouth.

I did not dovetail the brass because ..... well because ...

The strike button! This steel button works better than any wooden one I have used. Wood tends to absorb the blow and delay the reaction. The steel seems to transmit the force rapidly, and less impact is needed. I used a bolt - polished up the end to look pretty - and cut it off about 1 1/4" from the rear. This is a tight slip fit and remains attached without epoxy.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**derekcohen** · 3rd April 2013, 11:53 PM

Originally Posted by Berlin

Great looking plane Derek

.....
The only thing I would say is that I wouldn't be so unequivocal about low angle beds in wooden planes. I have been using mine for a while now and haven't molly coddled it and it's still trucking along happily. Granted it's not 12 degrees but it is less than 15.

I think perhaps low angled woodies just had to wait for antipodean building material.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364817978.602972.jpg

Cheers
Matt

Matt, I think that you had better post some more pictures of that plane. It looks really interesting.

Go on now!

Regards from Perth

Derek

**derekcohen** · 3rd April 2013, 11:54 PM

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Very elegant plane!

and it was a pleasure to meet you over in Perth the other night

Thanks Nick.

Regards fro Perth

Derek

**pmcgee** · 4th April 2013, 12:35 AM

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/n...-plane-165779/

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