Thread: Building a Wooden Router Plane

The only improvement I can think of is that it'd look better on my workbench! Seriously tho, no, I can't think of anything. Great job, u've inspired me to make one also.

Derek, do you tend to use it pushing or pulling?

Cheers,
Paul

I use it pushing, Paul, but I cannot see why it cannot be pulled.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek
I wonder if you could put a piece of 90° angle at the back of the router iron.
It seems to me that is where the most wear will come from.

TT

Derek thats real nice little router plane is this what they used to call an "Old Woman's Tooth"?

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

Hi Derek
I wonder if you could put a piece of 90° angle at the back of the router iron.
It seems to me that is where the most wear will come from.

TT

Hi TT

I have been thinking along these lines, not because of wear, but because it may be easier to seat the blade this way. I did something similar with the plough plane I built. However this is not straight forward with the router plane because there is a mortice for the eye bolt that would pass through the angle backing. That would effectively slice the angle in half. Now you have the problem of aligning the two parts in a deep groove.

I am working on it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Derek thats real nice little router plane is this what they used to call an "Old Woman's Tooth"?

This is more technically a router plane. A OWT is traditionally made using a plough plane blade ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi TT

I have been thinking along these lines, not because of wear, but because it may be easier to seat the blade this way. I did something similar with the plough plane I built. However this is not straight forward with the router plane because there is a mortice for the eye bolt that would pass through the angle backing. That would effectively slice the angle in half. Now you have the problem of aligning the two parts in a deep groove.

I am working on it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I see what you mean. Maybe the only way around that is the have the angle and the clamp made as one unit and installed together.
This would probably require some sort of tig work and then it defeats the principles of your simple (uncomplicated) piece

Still, this type of problem solving is interesting. I'm looking forward to what you do next

TT

Derek, BobL and I think IanW have all made things/parts from hardware store brass bits and pieces before ...

I wonder if there wouldn't be some common piece ... like a kitchen sink plug, or the section it plugs into ... that might give you a circle of brass (eg) to inlay around the inside of the throat at the base? (... a bit like Derek did with some of his wooden planes)

Paul

Use a piece of brass angle and run it vertically then it goes inside the wood and the eye bolt passes through it?

Using brass angle was what I had in mind - I like the extra bling - however, there is still the issue of the mortice.

At this stage the only way I can see that the angle brass is retained in one piece is to make it wide (to retain some section at the outside of the mortice). This will require that the rear section of the router is made deeper (to accommodate the extra depth of the angle brass). This, in turn, impacts on the lightness of the design and its feel. As you can see, it is not straight forward. Happy to hear your ideas.

Regards from Perth

Derek

How about using a U bolt instead of an eyelet? That way you could spread where the holes enter the rear of the plane.
The type of U. Bolts I'm thinking of can be sourced from a marine supply sore.


TT

Hi TT

How would you envisage that working?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek
I see that the U bolt would take out the necessity of making a mortice for the eye bolt. The brass angle would have notches either side to accommodate the U bolt and just require 2 holes to be made in the frame. So in my diagram one of the nuts would be fixed and the other a wing nut would do the tensioning. I don't know for sure but I'm thinking that that arrangement would operate much the same as a Moxon Vice where only one of the wheels does the adjustment once the piece has been properly balanced in the vice. The notches should prevent the U bolt from pulling through the timber of the frame and hold in securely in place against the router blade. That way you would have more depth on the angle to play with. Do they make brass U bolts? If not stainless angle with a stainless U bolt would look good against the type of timber you are using.

Apologies for the rough drawings. As you can see I used one of yours which is much better than I could do.

Regards
TT




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