Thread: Anyone built a roubo frame saw?

For a kerfing plane, something like this would be suitable https://www.timbecon.com.au/pony-jor...andsaw-rip-cut if you don't want to make one from scratch. I used a cheap general purpose hard point saw from Bunnings, but it's too fine pitch & doesn't clear the sawdust very well. The Blackburn tools instructions have a blade template. http://blackburntools.com/new-tools/...onst-right.pdf

Originally Posted by 62woollybugger

For a kerfing plane, something like this would be suitable https://www.timbecon.com.au/pony-jor...andsaw-rip-cut .......

Yep, I'd second that suggestion. The thicker blade will be more suitable & no need to spend more than you need to.

And I strongly suggest you cut some new teeth, big ones with deep gullets, like the ones Blackburn makes. Small teeth have small gullets which quickly fill with sawdust. With no way to clear them 'til you get to the end of the board, a saw with small gullets will spend much of its time not cutting anything.

The value of deep gullets was brought home to me a few years ago when I made a "trenching" saw for cutting the sides of rebates & sliding dovetail trenches. New S_D.jpg

At 10TPI, clogging can be a problem, especially in stopped trenches, but I have to live with it in this case because it's required to cut clean kerfs across the grain. Someday I intend to experiment with some more exotic tooth patterns to see if I can improve the clogging aspect. However, it does work, I just have to extract it every few stroke & clean the teeth, & given that I don't make sliding dovetails more than about once a year, it's not a high priority...

It's on my "to do" list to make a kerfing saw someday, so when I get the round tuit, I'll have a bash at cutting Blackburn style teeth & let you know how I go...
Cheers,
Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Yep, I'd second that suggestion. The thicker blade will be more suitable & no need to spend more than you need to.

And I strongly suggest you cut some new teeth, big ones with deep gullets, like the ones Blackburn makes. Small teeth have small gullets which quickly fill with sawdust. With no way to clear them 'til you get to the end of the board, a saw with small gullets will spend much of its time not cutting anything.

The value of deep gullets was brought home to me a few years ago when I made a "trenching" saw for cutting the sides of rebates & sliding dovetail trenches. New S_D.jpg

At 10TPI, clogging can be a problem, especially in stopped trenches, but I have to live with it in this case because it's required to cut clean kerfs across the grain. Someday I intend to experiment with some more exotic tooth patterns to see if I can improve the clogging aspect. However, it does work, I just have to extract it every few stroke & clean the teeth, & given that I don't make sliding dovetails more than about once a year, it's not a high priority...

It's on my "to do" list to make a kerfing saw someday, so when I get the round tuit, I'll have a bash at cutting Blackburn style teeth & let you know how I go...
Cheers,
Cheers,

Hi ian,

Can you explain how a trenching saw differs from a regular backsaw, aside from the snake plate. Is it to do with hang angle?

Regards,

Adam

Originally Posted by taz01

Hi ian,

Can you explain how a trenching saw differs from a regular backsaw, aside from the snake plate. Is it to do with hang angle?...

Nope, Adam, the saw does have a fairly high hang angle, which is because it is used at bench top height & the handle also needs lifting a bit to clear the workpiece.
You could certainly use a regular backsaw for cutting trenches, most folks who hand-cut them do. The 'extra' my saw brings to the table is that the blade exposure is adjustable (the bolt holes in the blade are actually slots). It can be set so that when full depth is reached, the stock bottoms on the fence (which is nothing more than a straight bit of wood clamped across the workpiece). I also curved the front up a little so that by using the saw with a bit of a rocking action it can clear some of the sawdust (but not all). I use a fence that has a vertical edge on one side and the dovetail angle I typically use for S-Ds (1:6) on the other edge. If I want/need any other angle it's just a few minutes work to make a new fence.

One other difference from a regular backsaw is that this saw has a very light set so it cuts a cleaner face & also minimises chewing up the fence as I start the cut. Since most S-D trenches or rebates are quite shallow, it only needs a very light set..
Cheers,

Using a chainsaw file to make those massive gullets sounds like an excellent idea.


Question - I'm having trouble finding an inexpensive source of spring plate. Would it be reasonable to use one of these and chop it up? Trojan 360mm Tenon Saw - Bunnings Australia


edit - perhaps one of these thick blades from a bowsaw: Cyclone 21" Dry Bow Saw Blade - Bunnings Australia

or even a aggressive little handsaw like this? (blade only) Fiskars Two Positions Powertooth Folding Saw - Bunnings Australia

edit edit - My original thought was to use a 250mm Ryoba blade. They are very aggressive and relatively cheap. I've a few of these, but only expensive ones.... perhaps if I bought an el-cheapo KAKURI GIKOU Japanese Ryoba Nokogiri saw Spare Blade 240mm Made in Japan | eBay

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Using a chainsaw file to make those massive gullets sounds like an excellent idea.


Question - Im having trouble finding an inexpensive source of spring plate. Would it be reasonable to use one of these and chop it up? Trojan 360mm Tenon Saw - Bunnings Australia

Maybe not super cheap
But I brought some of this a while back

1095 Spring Steel Sheet, Blue Temper, Spring Steel, AMS 5122/SAE 1095/AISI 1095/AISI 1095, 0.020" Thick, 6" Width, 25" Length, Pack Of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDPM2W...ing=UTF8&psc=1

How much are spring plate are we looking for Evan??

Cheers Matt.

enough to make the kerfing plane.... (edit) 250mm? (40mm tall)*

Thanks for the Amazon link! I keep forgetting about them for weird crap like this.



* hance me looking at a handsaw to mangle

An alternate source of saw plate is, of course, old re-sharpenable handsaws. I have a number of such saws that I have no plans for other than to make scraper blades! Assuming a standard size for the kerfing plane (the Blackburn version is 10" x 1 5/8") I may be able to send something for about $2.50 including the postage. The saw plate could be up to 50mm deep if desired.

Let me know if there is interest and if so I will sort through and post some pix either tonight or tomorrow.

Regards
Paul

Bushmiller, perfect.

300 * ~40 --> 50mm is HEAPS.

A nice thick one so I get a good FAT kerf

LMK by PM if you have any luck and I'll pop you the $.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

An alternate source of saw plate is, of course, old re-sharpenable handsaws. I have a number of such saws that I have no plans for other than to make scraper blades! Assuming a standard size for the kerfing plane (the Blackburn version is 10" x 1 5/8") I may be able to send something for about $2.50 including the postage. The saw plate could be up to 50mm deep if desired.

Let me know if there is interest and if so I will sort through and post some pix either tonight or tomorrow.

Regards
Paul

I’ve just returned from the Steel palace on a Toy hunting mission, to bring back to Smelly Melbourne.

One item on the list,was my stash of saw plate material(Because I feel I need to make a saw).

Evan I was thinking about your requirements while I was gathering.

So it now seems you have a decision to make, go with Paul’s very generous offer or I can make the same generous offer.
Probably be the same postage price!

Just really depends which site of town you want to go for.
I don’t actually want any $$ for the material.
Let me know before the end of the Decade regarding your decision.

Cheers Matt.

bwahahaha!

When it rains it pours!

All I need is a fat plate for the kerfing plane, so I can make that, so I can buy the frame saw, so I can resaw up my tasty juicy delicious timbers into box making materials.

This fortnight is out for any big purchases (my daughter is getting married on the 1st!!!!) so... no frame saw for Ev BUT! I can certainly get a kerf blade.

I have confusion Simplicity, I think I read that you will make me a blade for free... or am I deliberately misunderstanding that?


It is, gentlemen, just a kerfing saw, to make a kerf - it doesn't need to be some hand-forged dwarven master to make it... just a fat kerf, with chunky sharp teeth to remove swarf

If Evan doesn't take up someone's offer, can i sneak in there [emoji16]

A kerfing saw plus a kerfing blade for half blinds are both on my to do list

Regards,

Adam

Originally Posted by woodPixel

bwahahaha!

When it rains it pours!

All I need is a fat plate for the kerfing plane, so I can make that, so I can buy the frame saw, so I can resaw up my tasty juicy delicious timbers into box making materials.

This fortnight is out for any big purchases (my daughter is getting married on the 1st!!!!) so... no frame saw for Ev BUT! I can certainly get a kerf blade.

I have confusion Simplicity, I think I read that you will make me a blade for free... or am I deliberately misunderstanding that?


It is, gentlemen, just a kerfing saw, to make a kerf - it doesn't need to be some hand-forged dwarven master to make it... just a fat kerf, with chunky sharp teeth to remove swarf

Evan,

That is very noble try,
The politely answer is No I will not make you a blade for free,BUT I have the materials for your self, to make a blade for what ever fee you wish to charge your self out at.[emoji6]

An my said materials will be FREE.

Cheers Matt.
Hope that makes sense.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Originally Posted by taz01

If Evan doesn't take up someone's offer, can i sneak in there [emoji16]

A kerfing saw plus a kerfing blade for half blinds are both on my to do list

Regards,

Adam

If Evan says No, bugger off Matt.

Happy to sent them your way Adam.

Cheers Matt.