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Thread: Bullnose Planes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    166

    Default Bullnose Planes

    Hi all,
    I just bought an old Stanley #75 bullnose plane from ebay and just want to know how to set it up -its my first time with this type of plane. A few specific points:
    1. Ideal blade depth/mouth setting
    2. Without the lever cap tightened, the sole (infront of and behind the plane) all lines up, but then when you tighten the lever cap, the front part (sorry, not good with plane terminology) lifts up a bit, is this normal or should it remain coplanar?
    3. What angles should I set the blade up with (bevel, 'microbevel' etc.)?
    Cheers
    Will

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Hallidays Point - the land of blackbutt and swamp mahogany
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    Default

    Hi wsal

    Welcome to the forums! I hope you stick around - you can learn lots here.

    I'm sorry I can't help you, and I hope that someone else can.

    jas
    "... it is better to succeed in originality than to fail in imitation" (Herman Melville's letters)

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lindfield N.S.W.
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    5,643

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wsal View Post
    Hi all,
    I just bought an old Stanley #75 bullnose plane from ebay and just want to know how to set it up -its my first time with this type of plane. A few specific points:
    1. Ideal blade depth/mouth setting
    2. Without the lever cap tightened, the sole (infront of and behind the plane) all lines up, but then when you tighten the lever cap, the front part (sorry, not good with plane terminology) lifts up a bit, is this normal or should it remain coplanar?
    3. What angles should I set the blade up with (bevel, 'microbevel' etc.)?
    Cheers
    Will
    Will

    The #75 can be a bit of a b0gger to set up.

    To answer your questions using your numbers:
    1. I make the setting as fine and the mouth as tight as will take a cut - I don't use this for hogging timer out, but for shaving in corners and at the end of stopped trenches, etc
    2. I think the sole should be co-planar - you need to file and fiddle to achieve this - the lift up suggests movement between the two parts of the body.
    3. I use 30 degrees and no microbevel.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    788

    Default

    Although I don't have the 75, here's a quote from Blood and Gore in the 75 section ;
    http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm

    "The section of the sole ahead of the iron is not co-planar with the sole behind the iron. The plane is purposely made this way to assist it with its cut (you guys what owns the 'lectrical jointahs should know why the plane's sole is the way it is) so there's no need to practice sole lapping on it. "

    Now I'm not sure I completely understand this (I don't own a 'lectrical jointah), maybe someone could 'laborate...

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    166

    Default

    Cheers guys
    re. the 'lectrical jointah, he's referring to the infeed table being lower than the outfeed table, (so the wood rides along the infeed meets the cutter and then the outfeed table is set to support the wood where it has just been planed) which when flipped around is like the plane having the part before the mouth sitting higher than the rest of the sole... Does that make sense?
    I'll have to do some more fiddling...

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