Thread: Buying New Chisels

I am in the same boat as the OP, wanting a decent set of chisels but not sure I want to spend the money or commit to a high end set like the PMV-11 ones that seem so highly regarded. I opted for a set of Narex Chisels the same as linked to in the first post from here Narex Wood Line Plus Premium Bevel Edge 6 Piece Chisel Set - Fine Tools Australia

I figured they would be good enough to get me started and let me understand what I really need/want and if I decide to upgrade they are not so expensive that I couldn't use these for rougher more carpentry/ house renovation type jobs. They arrived the other day, I haven't used them yet but looking forward to giving them a try.

Cheers Andrew

glad to hear they arrived. Hope you saw this thread before ordering - and if not, see it before considering it again? Fine Tools Australia

I hadn’t read that thread, so I guess I got lucky that they arrived in a timely manner. Any online orders I use PayPal, so pretty easy to get my money back if things wrong. I bought from these guys because Timbecon were out of stock and this was the best price I could find elsewhere.

Cheers Andrew

I just bought the Narex Richters, which I chose mainly based on shape/size. I have big hands (and a big mallet) and these feel just right for me.


They do need some flattening though. If I hold them flat against my phone glass and then against the light I can see that the two big ones are slightly convex and the 3 smaller ones slightly concave, but we're talking maybe a 10th of a millimetre, if that. To be honest I might not even touch them, I doubt I can achieve flatter than that. Plus they came nicely polished and I'd rather not have to polish them again, just for the purpose of enforcing my delusions of flatness

I'll let you know how they go in practice, but keep in mind I'm generally trying to find well priced mid-range tools, I was looking for the Makita of chisels, not the Mafell.

Now to decide if I want to do a secondary bevel or not... The chisels actually came with a leaflet that says "a secondary micro-bevel is advisable depending how the chisel is used".
I mean I don't know man, it's used to cut wood LOL
Might occasionally stir my coffee

Thanks Ian

An experience I had recently is that I started out buying a few cheap vintage chisels on ebay, thinking that if I can get them up to a standard, I'll know I can keep them that way. Instead of buying a premium chisel, taking it home, and degrading it, which would just be depressing.

I did then cave and buy a Veritas PMV-11, 3/4 inch, after some beginner work made me more comfortable with a chisel, plus I did not have that size. I do not mind spending money on a good quality tool that I know I will use.

Truth be told it stayed in the drawer for weeks. I was just scared to butcher it. I eventually forced myself to grab it and hone it, and... look, it's lovely. But I had gotten fond already of my vintage ones. I am comfortable freehand sharpening them and can do it quickly now in 30 seconds. My 1" chisel was actually much sharper than I'd appreciated once a few test showed that it was just the fact it was pushing through 1" of material as opposed to (say) 1/2".

I now use the PMV-11 alongside the vintage ones. I feel I learn a lot, bit-by-bit. I particularly like how tall it is, and the flat in the handle, for referencing a chop in the vertical.

However I'm surprised at how good the cheaply bought vintage ones compare. In particular I have a very old 1" Triton that (both ground at 25") I prefer to the PMV-11 in many instances. I suspect it may be a bias about it being the "comfy" option and a feeling the Veritas should be kept pristine.

This led me to going back to my ebay history to see what I paid. $15. I have no idea what metal it is, but I'm familiar with what it'll do in at least a few types of wood.

This is a long way of both agreeing but also pointing out that a whole other option is to buy up vintage chisels as "trainers". I would be the last to deny that quality is worth $$$. And the work involved in flattening the back in particular, once you've done once, you're not going to learn anything by doing again. But it was a great experience for me and I've also got some tools that are definitely tools for life.

Chris

Vintage chisels are good trainers and chisels for life also. Nearly everything with Sheffield stamped on it is good as are Triton and Berg. I have a set of newish Two Cherries and while they work well I just tend to reach for the rack of oldies without thinking about it. Each one needed some TLC and a few needed new handles so perhaps I feel more attached to them because I had to first make them work.
Regards
John

Ok maybe I don't know much about chisels, but finally I figured out a proper chisel roll design! Pretty happy how it turned out











Of course it has to have a few empty pockets, because I've been told chisel collections tend to grow

That looks great S. I'm assumimg you made it - how did you sew the leather? I have always wondered wich is the best way to store chisels, blades out (for ease of identification) or blades in (to protect the cutting edges)? Maybe I've never had so many that I can't keep track of them.

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

That looks great S. I'm assumimg you made it - how did you sew the leather? I have always wondered wich is the best way to store chisels, blades out (for ease of identification) or blades in (to protect the cutting edges)? Maybe I've never had so many that I can't keep track of them.

Making a tool roll for woodworking

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

That looks great S. I'm assumimg you made it - how did you sew the leather? I have always wondered wich is the best way to store chisels, blades out (for ease of identification) or blades in (to protect the cutting edges)? Maybe I've never had so many that I can't keep track of them.

Yeah just follow the link that DJ's Timber posted. Sorry, I got a bit excited about my finished project and posted it in 2 places

I think the best way is handles inside the pockets and blades out. Also, chisels flat side up, and the widest chisels must go to the end (by end I mean the part of the roll that ends up being on the outside when rolled up.

The chisels generally don't really move inside the roll so it doesn't matter all that much. These are precautions to protect the leather from the chisels, not the other way round. Nothing happens to the chisels themselves inside a leather roll, it's really soft.

Great thread S. Thanks for the link DJ.

Beautifully made and nicely documented with photographs throughout the process. Thanks for sharing, Spyro.

Originally Posted by Fluddman

I'm spending more and more time in the shed and would like to buy some decent chisels and give hand cut dovetails a good try.

I am a novice woodworker but have a trade background - so I like decent tools even if I have to grow into them.

Would something like this be a good start?

https://www.timbecon.com.au/bevel-ed...-woodline-plus

Am I better off buying a full set or just one or two at a time.

Thanks for your help and advice.

Regards

Glenn

I'm glad you picked out a good chisel. Since you primarily wanted to do dovetails, I would have recommended buying one of the expensive chisels that have sharp lands.. Veritas, Lie Nielsen, Blue Spruce, and the like...

If the question was a decent beginner chisel, I would have recommended Sheffield made Stanley (Fat Max, Bailey, or Sweetheart) or Irwin Marples Blue Chip. They are usually readily available and their quality is known, unlike Chinese internet discount fare... Don't buy a whole set, just get one or two.

After going through the wringer building myself a collection of old rust user chisels, I would not recommend it. It takes some time to learn what to look for, and the learning curve is expensive because of the number of damaged and badly abused tools out there. I'm currently batting under 50% on used chisels where I'm pretty sure I know what I'm looking at....