Thread: The ever-changing block plane makeover

Originally Posted by IanW

More or less what the Chief said & Matt implied (I think!), that it's horses for courses. There are tasks for which a 60* cutting angle will serve you well & times when the more 'conventional' angle of 20* + 25* will be better. Having owned a 110 for 60-something years, I know they need all the help they can get to prevent tear-out at times.

I think the ideal solution is for you to send two blades, one ground to 35-40 & one ground to 25, & think of some way your elegant palm-saving "biscuit" can be attached/detached & switched to the other blade. Or maybe just fit both blades with a biscuit?

Cheers,

P.S. Found a bit of H.O. that should do for a hammer handle & sent you an email...

Sounds great Ian.

I might look for a second blade. To change the buiscuit from one to thw other is easy. I just need matching holes in the second as well. The buiscuit is only held by 2 screws. So it is easy to take off if it is in the way example if one is using a honing guide.



My main thoughts regarding the angle will be guided by who is the dedicated future owner. From what I know I think he is not so much a hand tool guy (yet), but likes to build things. And therefore we opted for a block plane, where it might well be that he only uses it.to take edges of or just trim things a little to fit. So therefore I also want to deliver a more or less whole package. Hence the adjustment hammer.

Second it is going to be delivered to Germany, where most woods are not as cranky as ours here. Mostly I assume it'll be pine ore maybe oak, or even (I am afraid to say it) ply. Although the ply over there is 100 times better then what you get here, but please let's not go into that here.

So if I give only one blade I would tend to a lower angle to make it more enjoyable. If my impressions are right, then I might spark some inspiration. And if not the plane might also just end up as a display item. However, that will be out of my control as long as I deliver something good and usable. Something I also be happy with.

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Originally Posted by Cklett

Andy, I am not quite sure what you mean. My understanding is that a cap iron is the same as what others call a chip breaker. Chip breaker are directly screwed onto the blade like at Bailey pattern planes. Neither bevel up nor scraper planes have chip breaker. They wouldn't work on them. The block plane is a bevel up plane and my challenge plane is a scraper plane.

Sorry for the confusion CK, I mixed-up the terminology! You are absolutely right, I was referring to the lever cap.

Originally Posted by Cklett

S.. it is going to be delivered to Germany, where most woods are not as cranky as ours here. Mostly I assume it'll be pine ore maybe oak, or even (I am afraid to say it) ply. Although the ply over there is 100 times better then what you get here, but please let's not go into that here.

So if I give only one blade I would tend to a lower angle to make it more enjoyable. If my impressions are right, then I might spark some inspiration. And if not the plane might also just end up as a display item. However, that will be out of my control as long as I deliver something good and usable. Something I also be happy with....

Ck, my two-blade suggestion was meant to be tongue-in-cheek, I think you've already exceeded your brief!

I totally agree with your reasoning, this plane may never be used to its full potential, but with any luck, it might spark a passion & the lucky person receiving it will be off on a journey of fun & discovery (like its maker is enjoying now ).

It would look rather good in a display cabinet, but 'twould be a pity if it languishes unused & your clever added details go unappreciated. However, I take the philosophical view myself - once something leaves my hands, it's up to fate & the new owner to decide what happens to it.....

Cheers,

I finally got around making that plane adjustment hammer. Thanks to Ian's donation of a small piece of hairy oak.



I don't have a lathe so I kept the shape of the handle pretty basic. First everything angled and then just heavily rounding over.



On the flat face I added a small piece of rubber so the hammer can be used on the blade as well the body of the plane.

I am still working on the box and it is coming along nicely. But that is an other story. I just leave a little teaser for now.



First box I ever made with dovetails.





And I also got to play with my dovetail plane and my side rebate plane with the sliding dovetail fence.

However, for the reveal and the story of that adventure you still have to wait a little [emoji16]

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Just love the simplicity and proportions of that hammer, CK. Great design work and craftsmanship!

Hammer - Plane Adjusting.jpg

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Just love the simplicity and proportions of that hammer, CK. Great design work and craftsmanship!

Hammer - Plane Adjusting.jpg

I too love the “simplicity” [emoji6]of the hammer CK.

I think that hammer is just perfect.

Cheers Matt

Ok I am done and hope I did not overdo it.

However, first I reground the bevel on the blade to 25 degrees. See earlier posts. It works so well now that I'd be tempted to keep it.



Now to the box. As the plane, also that changed during the process. I do like to make things up as I go. And I know, it has the risk to go totally wrong. But hey, I am only wasting some wood and my free time if it all goes wrong.

My first plan was to make a box like them Japanese tool boxes. I like them and wanted to make one. But then I thought it is not quite fitting to a western plane. Further the guy it goes to is half dutch and we do like sailing. So I decided to base the box on the design of a Dutch tool chest. I read that they were mainly used by carpenters on the shipyards.

So I started on the box. The sides are dovetailed to the bottom and the shelf sits in a sliding dovetail. See my previous post.



To make sure the plane has a fixed spot I cut a recess into the shelf and planned to incorporate a way to further fix it in place later.

Normally a Dutch tool chest has a lid and you would need to pull a pin from inside to release the front panel to get access to the bottom compartment. I thought that too, but then changed my mind and decided for a full lid which covers top and front in one piece.

Did that and added some blocks to keep the plane from falling out of his recess.



Then I needed to find a spot for the hammer. And first I wanted to fix it to the inside of the lid. You can see the blocks I had temporarily fixed. But the mechanics crossed my plan and that did not work. So I decided to just rest the hammer in the bottom.

Originally I just wanted to put a shelf in the bottom and had already cut the grooves.

Again I changed my mind and knocked up a small drawer.



The drawer is set back enough to make room for the hammer.




Finally the locking mechanism was a bit of a puzzle. I settled for some hooked clasps on the side. But I could only get some with the hook in the same direction. I needed a left and a right one though. So I had to carefully persuade the rivet out of one, rotate the hook and peen it back together.



Turned out ok and lucky it is a tool chest so it can look a bit rugged.

Now all done and ready to go overseas. Just threw a few inexpensive sharpening plates, leather strop and compound into the drawer to complete the starter pack. I know it is not the best sharpening system, but similar to what I used when getting started and it did work for me.




Now you tell me if I have overdone it. It all started when my brother asked me to just restore an old plane for him and this is what he gets.....

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You have completely an utterly gone way over the top, an I personally like that work methodology,
That is such an awesome stater pack,

The recipient I’m sure will be stocked.
Well done.

Cheers Matt.

Of course you've overdone it, Ck, but that's what it's all about, isn't it? You've done something special, and had a ton of fun along the way (not to mention a few anxious moments, no doubt). Everyone is a winner, and even if the recipient doesn't fully appreciate the thought & effort that went into it, we do!

BTW, designing on the fly like you did is a time-honoured method. I've lost track of the number of times I've started with a pretty firm plan in my sketch book but ended up with something quite different. It's one of the many benefits of being an amateur - imagine how boring it would be to spend your days just assembling stuff from someone else's drawings & not being allowed to put your own stamp on it....

Cheers,

Great stuff, love it.

That’s one lucky brother!

Sign and date it somewhere; maybe the underside of the drawer? If there’s enough room maybe write a little backstory behind it. No need to tell anyone either, it can be something for a future descendant to discover.

This story is just getting better and better and I am fast running out of superlatives.

Regards
Paul

Love it as well CK. And more of that superb Chinese Elm! And the stunning Bull Oak!! The best gifts to give are the ones we want to keep for ourselves. I hope your brother is as inspired when he uses it as we were watching you convert it.

Hi CK,

Read this thread today, think its absolutely fantastic what you've done, over the top but if i had your skill i would be doing the exact same for them. Love gifts that are so thoughtful i'm sure the owner will appreciate it and want to start using it more and more.

Couple of novice questions for anyone here that can answer.

1.) the small hammer, what sort of steel is that made out of and is it shaped with a hacksaw and on a belt sander to the right grit to get a finish like that? looks fantastic
2.) The lever cap screw that has timber on the outside of it, can you share or point me towards a similar one as to how this is made? think its an awesome design and am keen to understand how its put together

Awesome box to house it all. fantastic idea!