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  1. #16
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    Interesting thread. This is something I've been wondering about lately - the question of whether a new HP saw will outperform an old saw. I like nice tools, but my saws are all hardware store specials, or powered. I think I might have to try an old saw or two, just to see what they are like.
    Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.

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  3. #17
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    I must be tough on saws, because while I agree the hardpointers are initially very good they still go blunt on my hardwoods too quickly. This is particularly so having regard to how little they get used.

    This is my pile plus there are more that have been consigned to garden pruning. Only two are even close to passable

    Hardpointers 001.jpg

    The reason I haven't thrown them away is I thought I would have a play at making my own saw up after I cut off the teeth.

    Hardpointers 002.jpg

    This collection of throwaways, and it's to my mind wastefullness, is why I am in the process of reverting to sharpenable saws. I have to confess that it is not an economy drive by any stretch of the imagination. It's is more like an obsession .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #18
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    Will you change the handles too Paul?

    Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by code4pay View Post
    Will you change the handles too Paul?

    Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk

    Yes I will. Absolutely. In fact that will be part of the fun. I have also about four or five re-sharpenable saws that also need new handles so I will be trying a few things in that department.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  6. #20
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    I had the opportunity to put my words into practice the other night and this is how the plate came up:

    Hardpointer 2.jpg

    A toothless wonder?

    At some time, probably in the distant future at the rate I am currently going, I will make this into a lightweight saw of some description.

    In fact the more useful future for something like this, apart from scrapers, is tenon and dovetail saws (plate might be a bit thick for the latter when I think on it). I just checked it out at 36 thou..

    It took me about five minutes to do this including setting up and clamping a straight edge as a guide for the grinder.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  7. #21
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    Any sign of distortion caused by the grinding Paul?
    Cheers,
    Jim

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbur View Post
    Any sign of distortion caused by the grinding Paul?
    Jim

    Yes, but only as is evident in the pic, on the toothed piece. The plate remained really good. In that pic the burr hasn't been removed, but is hardly even noticeable.

    I should test the plate for hardness. I have some of those files that are graded for RC hardness. When I get a moment I might give then a try, although I have to say they can probably only be a fairly rough guide.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    .....I should test the plate for hardness. I have some of those files that are graded for RC hardness. When I get a moment I might give then a try, although I have to say they can probably only be a fairly rough guide....
    Paul, if my experience is any guide, you are more likely to hit a few hard spots than encounter any softening. I guess you get a bit of local heating of dags of metal to conversion temp., and the cooling of the thin plate is sufficiently rapid to keep the carbides in solution. I always file the cut edge until I get a nice even drag all the way along. I find similar hard spots on some of the new plate I've used, which I put down to a bit of local work-hardening from the guillotine.

    Been thinking of getting a set of those hardness-testing files. McJing has a set for $35 - doesn't fill me with a lot of confidence at that price, but everything I've bought from there has been capable of doing the job, so far, so maybe they are ok for what I need. Anyone who has tried them & has any comments??

    Cheers,
    IW

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Paul, if my experience is any guide, you are more likely to hit a few hard spots than encounter any softening. I guess you get a bit of local heating of dags of metal to conversion temp., and the cooling of the thin plate is sufficiently rapid to keep the carbides in solution. I always file the cut edge until I get a nice even drag all the way along. I find similar hard spots on some of the new plate I've used, which I put down to a bit of local work-hardening from the guillotine.

    Been thinking of getting a set of those hardness-testing files. McJing has a set for $35 - doesn't fill me with a lot of confidence at that price, but everything I've bought from there has been capable of doing the job, so far, so maybe they are ok for what I need. Anyone who has tried them & has any comments??

    Cheers,
    Ian

    The Mcjing files are the same as mine, mainly because I bought them at the Brissy Show, from McJing!

    It was the price that has led me to think I may be hopeful in achieving a satisfactory result.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Ian

    The Mcjing files are the same as mine, mainly because I bought them at the Brissy Show, from McJing!

    It was the price that has led me to think I may be hopeful in achieving a satisfactory result.

    Regards
    Paul
    Yairs, 'you get what you pay for' & all that, Paul. However, the stuff I've bought from him, like HSS cutters & such like, have always done the job for me, so I'm hopeful these will, too. Give 'em a run sometime & let me know what you think of them...
    Cheers,
    IW

  12. #26
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    I have what was a beautiful standard pattern (I think) Sandvick hand saw.
    Steel is superb, bend it in half & springs back perfectly.
    Sandvick, under cost pressures, used a rather poor quality plastic handle which failed dismally early on.
    I have never sharpened a saw myself, & the cost if I could find a skilled sawyer would most likely be prohibitive.
    So I'd need a new timber handle plus ................. just to restore this old saw which I reckon would out perform any but the very best Disston.
    Meantime it's hard to beat the hard points, even the plastic handles seem to last well.

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterlonz View Post
    .......I have never sharpened a saw myself, & the cost if I could find a skilled sawyer would most likely be prohibitive.....
    Peter, depending where you live & who you took your saw to, it probably wouldn't cost as much as you think to have it sharpened - most of the reputable saw sharpening places do handsaws. If it's a rip pattern, you will quite likely get a reasonably good job, too, but if it's crosscut, all bets are off - there's even a risk it will come back to you sharpened as a rip saw!

    OTH, it's always worth having at least one go at it yourself. As I keep saying, even a not-very-well-sharpened saw cuts better than a very dull one. If it was well-sharpened the last time, & if you are careful & follow the existing angles, you should get a pretty satisfactory result for your first sharpen. It's the next sharpening you try, or the one after that where things start to go pear-shaped, as you compound your errors. You do have an added problem in that Sandviks are notoriously hard, and most files these days are too brittle, so it might be a bit of a tussle. However, I reckon it's worth a go, you have nought to lose than a $12-15 file & a bit of pride....

    Quote Originally Posted by peterlonz View Post
    .......So I'd need a new timber handle plus ................. just to restore this old saw which I reckon would out perform any but the very best Disston.....
    A bit of wood & a few pleasant hours with a coping saw, a rasp & some cloth-backed paper, & listening to your favourite radio station - should do the trick...

    Quote Originally Posted by peterlonz View Post
    ......Meantime it's hard to beat the hard points, even the plastic handles seem to last well.....
    Welllll, I confess I do use one for rough work away from home, & especially if there's a risk of encountering hardware, but I can't agree it's hard to beat, give me one of my 26" Disstons any day!

    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterlonz View Post
    I have what was a beautiful standard pattern (I think) Sandvick hand saw.Steel is superb, bend it in half & springs back perfectly.Sandvick, under cost pressures, used a rather poor quality plastic handle which failed dismally early on.I have never sharpened a saw myself, & the cost if I could find a skilled sawyer would most likely be prohibitive.So I'd need a new timber handle plus ................. just to restore this old saw which I reckon would out perform any but the very best Disston.Meantime it's hard to beat the hard points, even the plastic handles seem to last well.
    Anything like this one?

    P1030788 (Medium).JPGP1030787 (Medium).JPGP1030789 (Medium).JPGP1030790 (Medium).JPG

    Original plastic handle is in the second pic. Couldn't get the saw handle the right colour in the pix. It is between the last pic and the others in true colour. It was the only saw I ever bought from the shop. New in about 1981! It came with the hole in the toe . 22" saw plate.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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