Thread: Chisel Bevel Angle

I have always stuck with the 25* primary and 30* secondary bevel and keep all my chisels the same to avoid confusion. I know there are some like different angles for different timbers but whatever you do is a compromise. 25 & 30 will be ok for cherry as it is not all that hard. I have no experience with jap chisels but I guess they have a steeper angle because they thump on them with metal hammers. A fine angle will cut deeper but with more risk of the edge chipping. I use a guide to regrind the primary bevel but I touch up freehand on an oilstone so the secondary is sonewhere about 30*. I dont see a degree or two mking a big difference as long as the secondaey is a bit more than the primary. I just want something that takes only a few strokes to touch up and get back to the job.
Regards
John

The ideal answer (but not necessarily the practical answer) is to grind as low as the steel permits.

A Rule of Thumb is that 20-25 degrees is for paring (pushing), 25-30 degrees is for general all-round work, and 30-35 degrees for heavy work (such as pounding).

The above is for the final bevel andle, and does not say how you get there. Some prefer a lower primary bevel and add a secondary bevel. My preference is a hollow grind at the desired angle (including Japanese chisels), then freehanded on the hollow to create a micro bevel. The only chisel that I give a secondary bevel to is a mortice chisel.

My Japanese dovetail chisels (hooped for pounding) are bevelled at 30 degrees.

Regards from Perth

Derek