Thread: Chisels. Lie nielsen A2 Vs o1

Originally Posted by skippy

I am in the process of finding a quality chisel set thats going to last a long time. LN and H&S seem to be the main contenders at the moment. Yes i have read the "Intense" threads re one vs the other. My main reason for leaning to the LN at the moment is price (set of 5 for AU$306 without roll) and lead time. It seems both perform to a high standard, depending on user of course.
My main thing is is there any real difference from A2 vs o1 steel in general use? It seems the o1 has the edge (pun intended) at more acute sharpening angles i.e. 30 deg to 25. I assume the A2 will work just as well at those angles but will need sharpening more often. Is this a correct assumption? I am pretty competend in the sharpening field so a touch up every now and then is not daunting.
Thanks in advance

Skippy

Chisels - bench chisels especially - are a very personal decision. A handle may feel great for one yet disliked by another. Some prefer a short handle, others a long one. Some a socket, others a tang. Short handles tend to suit those who want to use a mallet/hammer most of the time. The Japanese chisels typify this group. Control comes from the careful use of a genou. Longer handles offer more control when paring, and may improve balance. The weight of the blade and handle are relevant here. Tanged chisels are lighter and less blade-heavy. Socket handles may be versatile (changed out) but also tend to fall off and can be a royal pain in the watsit.

Questions to ask when grasping a bench chisel: does it feel balanced when chopping, is it secure in the hand when pushing (does it have a place to push against).

Left to right: Koyamaichi, Stanley #750, and a #750 with a custom handle ...



Veritas and LN




Steels vary widely, but the commonest choices in new chisels are O1, A2, HSS (M2) and now PM-V11. These all differ and have pros and cons.

O1 is the easiest to hone but holds its edge the shortest time. Its advantage is that it is easy to get a sharp edge. Most of this steel has fairly fine grain, so hones to a good edge.

A2 is a little harder to hone and holds an edge about 50% longer. I suspect the reason it came to prominence in modern times was not simply the edge holding, but it is easier to manufacture as the air hardening does not cause the steel to twist as much as oil hardening (O1), so there is less rejection and lower costs. While A2 is a better choice than O1 in Australia owing to our harder, more abrasive woods, it does not take quite as good an edge as O1 as the grain is coarser. In real terms, however, I doubt that most could tell this (especially if they are good at honing).

HSS is very durable and has the advantage of being the easiest to grind. It is more durable than either O1 or A2. However it is also the coarsest grained of the lot, and takes the worst edge, and is the most difficult to hone. It is a good choice where the going gets rough.

Japanese laminated blades can take and hold an exceptional edge. They are also easy to sharpen. The very hard high carbon steel layer is thin and this facilitates less work.

The recent addition by LV of the PM-V11 changes the game. The immediate downside is that it is more expensive than the other steels. "PM" means that the steel is manufactured to a formula. One of the advantages is that it is very durable - I'd say more so that HSS - but equally importantly it has the finest grain of all, and so takes the finest edge of all these steels. They hone with the same degree of difficulty as A2 (i.e. nothing special required)

The ideal angle at which you grind and hone a bevel differs for the steels. O1 can be honed at 25 degrees for decent edge-holding, A2 requires a 30 degree bevel, I think HSS can do it at 25 -30 degrees, while PM-V11 hones at 25 degrees. I think that only O1 and PM-V11 can be honed at 20 degrees (as when dedicated to paring).

The blade shape is important. There are a few makes on the market with very fine or zero lands. Zero lands are important for ease in getting into angled corners, such as dovetails. This is most relevant with narrow dovetails or areas where you cannot skew a chisel. Most bench chisels on the market are termed "bevel edged" but are in reality bevelled firmer chisels - too thick at the shoulders. Good versions are made by Ashley Iles, Blue Spruce, LN and Veritas.

I have a review of the Veritas O1 chisels here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...selReview.html There is more discussion on choosing a chisel there. I also have a set of the PM-V11 chisels, and can attest that they take and hold a very fine edge. Well worth the extra over LN if you can afford them.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'll be getting a H & S 1 1/2 in. bevel edge, the only size missing in my Ulmia set. A mate has one and when at his place I can't put it down.
It's beautiful, balanced and a joy to use!!