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Thread: Granny's tooth
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15th June 2023, 11:25 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Granny's tooth
Hi all. Having found a PDF of a Charles Hayward book on making your own tools, I was keen to make a little wooden router. Please see photos below. Timber is Beech, blade was cut out of a "Brobo" cold cutting blade, tempered and annealed and sharpened up on oilstones. First use was cleaning up a sawn and chiselled dado. Worked well in "push" mode but found it small in my hands. I think "pull" mode will make things easier to see.
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16th June 2023, 07:04 AM #2Senior Member
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Nicely done.
A lot simpler to execute than the other common design out there that resembles the metal router body in general shape, and requires some sort of clamping mechanism more complicated than a wedge.
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16th June 2023, 08:01 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Bill. I will have to get used to taking lighter cuts, I have a habit of "smashing" my metal bodied router plane through the cut.
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16th June 2023, 10:27 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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It's a good excuse to use chisels or saws to remove more of the waste. I think the stanley type is just good enough to allow us to get lazy.
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16th June 2023, 10:29 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Well done on the plane by the way, it's got a handsome design. Am I understanding that you hardened or rehardened and tempered the blade? If so, double well done.
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16th June 2023, 11:40 AM #6
It certainly has the 'cute' factor, MA, & looks very handsome in Beech.
I've seen that design a few times & wondered how well they work. The difference between yours & the type folks tend to make now is the cutting angle - yours 'high' & BD, those using the bent blades are low & BU. One would think the LA, BU blades would cut cross-grain more efficiently, but maybe not - it's a pity you don't live across the road so we could do a direct comparison.
My first attempt, after Derek presented his some years back: Done.jpg
Not sure which style would be easiest to make, but the blade for yours is definitely simpler & easier to make from a bit of scrap. Somebody here made blades for theirs from old Allen keys which was a bit of clever lateral thinking.
I think the secret with light little routers like these is to go easy, mine is far happier taking light cuts & you're usually only working very small areas, so you save little time by the 'crash' method, methinks. A chisel can do the grunt work, so it often only requires a few passes to level the trench or whatever I'm cleaning up.
Cheers,IW
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16th June 2023, 02:33 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Hi David and Ian.
I have been "forging" in my fireplace inside. I get a good bed of coals going, pop the blade in and take it out when the colour of the steel matches the colour of the coals (orangey red). Quenched in Canola oil, sitting in front of the fire and then put in the oven at 200°C for 1.5 hours. Left to cool overnight. I have done half a dozen this way now.
I think it might bit small (blade is 14mm wide for scale), my hands aren't large but it felt a little awkward. Being timber it is light but tested on Oregon (Douglas Fir for DW) and went okay.
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16th June 2023, 11:31 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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I'm sure this type of ambient fire heating isn't without precedent. I've not done it, but have seen some pretty nice knives made where a fire is set up like that and the knife is heated above the coal bed but below the oxygen rich top of the fire.
Thanks for the translation on the wood!
What that design gives up in lower angle and weight, and maybe more reliance on other mechanical bulk removing, it will more than give back in not marring some woods like a metal router plane can. You've inspired me to finally make one now, too.
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