Thread: How to clean an old saw vice

Methylated spirits should be fine.
A little machine oil also should be fine.
If later you are going to get in sand blasted.
You could either have it powder coated or have a body shop paint it for you.
They will have the facilities to bake the finish.
And mix the paint to any colour you desire.
Or lastly you could strip it with a wire wheel fired to a grinder
And paint it your self depends on what finish you would like and durability power coating would be the toughest tho.

Thanks Simplicity I would prefer a professional finish considering it is about 100 years old I believe its most probably before the 1920's and it has survived this long I would like to restore it to its former glory and have it last another 100 years this is something I would like to do with my egg beater as well. Some may think its extreme but I like my tools to be in pristine condition.

There's nothing wrong with pristine.
Or looking like they just came out of the factory.
But saying that my three suggestions none would be original.
The auto finish would look nice but be a bit brittle.
Powder coating would be tuff.
As for what was original put on I suspect it may be a brush on oil finish maybe I could be wrong.

Not sure if they brushed backed then because I can never see any brush marks on any of the better kept antique tools, may be they dipped parts in I'm nt sure but why would the auto finish be brittle.

Auto finish is ok
But is easily damaged in a workshop environment
It scratches easily
It may have been dipped
Henry ford did that with his model T ford panels black only
Because it tried the quickest
Then they cut the sags off and polished
Rolls Royce use to brush there finishes then hand polish
To remove brush marks
So it maybe off been dipped or brush
Air spraying is relative new

It would have originally have been japanned.
See here for a DIY method: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/diy-japanning-109892

However, the modern alternative seems to be with engine enamel which you can buy in a can for $15 or so.
Others here have had much success with this.
I'm pretty sure that's what Wiktor Kuc uses to transform his hand drills:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/hUS-borTo...s1-1957-01.asp
Seems to do a pretty nice job.

How interesting I've never known that polishing could take out brush marks. I've read that Wiktor bakes his paint but I think I will give that can job a go myself, when the vice was delvered the guy had a sponge moulded to fit the vice which I will keep it as storage since you don't need a permanently attached to your bench unless your professionally sharpening many saws.

Thanks alot boys for the great ideas.

Polishing means in this instance sanding then polishing hope that makes sence
Hiroller
I've leant something now and may look in to japanned a bit more now have a few planes that could do with some
Thank you

oh ok I now know what you mean

If you find the ball joint too loose and moves even when clamped. After cleaning the dirt and rust out, put some lightly oiled pieces of news paper in, or waxed paper from the kitchen.

That is some very good advice I still haven't gotten around to cleaning it because of my current project order I need to complete but I am looking forward in putting to use, after I do some sharpening I am going to give it a thorough clean out and paint job. Everything seems a little stiff at the moment but after lubrication after the paint job it should be fine but if that ball joint starts to give me grief I'll now know what to do.

Originally Posted by section1

I just bought an old disston saw vice just how old I have no idea but it's great, it's needs cleaning and lubrication. Is methylated spirits ok to use as a cleaning agent and machine oil as a lubricant. However after I sharpen my saws I would like to sand blast it and repaint, is sand blasting ok on this vice. Lastly I want someone who is a professional that can repaint and bake the paint do you know anyone on the Gold Coast that does this.

I would not sandblast it.

Use a good paint stripper (one of the gel types) and then hit it with a high pressure washer. Let it dry of then use a wire brush attached to a drill.

You may have to do it a few times but it won't hurt the metal at all. The idea is not to damage the inner parts of the jaws.

I have just done this to an old Carter 9" vise. I used a clear enamel after that as I liked the look of fresh cast iron.

Any auto enamel spray pack will work. If you like you can bake it in the oven at about 50 to 65 C.