Thread: cleaning up an old brace (or two, or more..)

There is an article on cleaning up wood in the latest Australian Woodsmith.
As for the metal, a solution of 1 part cleaning vinegar to 6 parts water works really well over a time of several days to remove rust etc.

Thanks for the tips,

I've found a useful recent thread that someone posted in woodworking general (which is why I didn't find it) and a link to another good restoration description from ALF at the Cornish Workshop. Good stuff.

I haven't yet tried the rust removal baths mentioned here and in other tool restoring threads, I found a wire wheel on my Dremel was effective at removing the rust on my first brace. As the rust sort of sits on top of the nickel it didn't take much force to lift off.
Afterwards I gave the metalwork a good polish using a cotton polishing wheel on my drill. It came up well.
I'm still not sure how to tackle the metalwork on the older braces. I may leave them largely untouched.

I'm still after a good finish for the furniture. My nickel plated Stanley brace originally had yellowish wood handles. I've died them darker and given them some Danish oil to rejuvenate the wood. As a finish I'm considering Hard Burnishing Oil, Ubeaut Hard Shellac, Shellawax, etc. I'm after something with a nice glow to it.

I'll post photos shortly.

gday you could try electrolysis works quite well without any effort this website should help www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php
ive used a few times now on old bits and pieces and cleans them up either overnight or couple of days

here is a photo of the current crop of braces

the one I've started on is the silver one in the centre

I've included a rosewood handled Stanley screwdriver and Stanley #7 with ecuadorian rosewood handles from Blackapple tools, to illustrate the nice lustre I'd like to give the brace handles

HI Silver,

I'll admit to having a few braces found at swaps and markets and for those that needed it I have used a few methods to clean them up.
-A gentle wire wheel is always good for rust removal but like any method you need to take care as some people can wreck the patina of a tool with the wire wheel.
-Depending on the rust I might give it a going over lightly with a scraper followed by fine wet n dry lubed with wd40 - just add elbow grease. That does a good job.
- Can also do electrolysis - half the brace at a time (as you don't want the wood in the water) and remove the round pad like you have done. just ned to rig up something to suspend it in the right spot.
I don't overdo it with the electrolysis, as again you can destroy any patina and leave the metal starke. So only give it a light zap, just enough to losen any rust and convert it to the black oxide, then go over it with wet n dry. The zapping will also get in to all those hard to reach places. Then a good soaking with wd40 to drive off any moisure in the works and a lube after.

-As for the wood, my preference on the old rosewood and cocobolo is just a very fine steel wool lubed with metho - it removed crud and leaves a clean surface, and the patina stays intact. I rarely sand, if you need to sand then maybe best with a fine paper lubricated or it will clog.

-To finish the wood again you can do just a wax, or give it an wipe of linseed oil rubbed in followed by shellac then wax. Or oil then wax.

Re nickel plating, electrolysis will remove or losen plating that has rust under it - and that would come off anyway, leaving behind the good plating. Otherwise again gently with fine steel wool over it will do a reasonable job.

Have fun.

Steve

thanks for some good advice,

I guess with the old braces its a case of 'less is more' but I'm going to be a bit more aggressive with newer, nickel plated ones.

I've been testing vinegar for rust removal and so far the results have been ok. I left an old nail punch in a bottle of vinegar for two days and its just starting to look a bit 'pewter'. Maybe half a day too long.

As Mr Derek Cohen suggested, this looks to be a great method to rejuvenate old files and I'll keep experimenting with various brews before testing it on good tools.

I couldn't find any Hard Shellac in Canberra, so unless Ubeaut decides to sponsor this experiment, the first brace is going to be done with Hard Burnishing Oil. I'll have to find something good to watch on tv to take my mind off my sore elbows...

I tried some HBO but the results were disappointing. Gee its hard stuff to get right. So I went searching for something better and found some Minwax Wipe on Poly at Bunnings (seem they are carrying it again) but then I found some Ubeaut Hard Shellac at another store and thought I'd go with that.

The results initially weren't great - I followed the instructions but I don't think they are really aimed at first timers (it says 'apply as you would any other shellac' - thanks!)
I tried to cover every spot and as a result I laid it on too thick and got brush marks and drips . I should have checked this forum before starting - the experts say to do lots of light coats, to ignore missed spots and get them with the next coat.

So I sanded back with 800/1200 wet and dry, reapplied in small amounts and the results were really good. Here they are

Looks nice Silver.

So where did you get the hard shellac?

Originally Posted by Zsteve

So where did you get the hard shellac?

A place called Fitch's tools near Bunnings in Fyshwick. Its a great shop, and now that Canberra Carba-tec is on the way out, its the only place you can get their products.

(Not sure why I have to advise where to buy Ubeaut products on their own forums, but there you go).