Thread: Compass (or circular) plane

Mark

a Record 020 is only 44mm wide, much less than the 60mm you are after.
I think you'll find a spokeshave (possibly the large one from Le Valley) is a better choice.

Be aware, that a compass plane chatters something fierce if you attempt to take anything more than a smidgen off each pass.

Mark
As Ian says best results with a fine setting .If you spokeshave first and then fair the curve with the compass ,constantly adjusting the sole to suit the curve ,that could work .If you are using a "West" type epoxy It will fill any small voids .
I have a 113 stanley that I have used for many different jobs .It's mainly used to make patterns for my router and spindle . The miracle of the compass plane ( for me anyway ) is that it stops cutting when it reaches the set radius.It's one of the most foolproof machines I have .

Does anyone know where to buy Virutex in Australia? (Can't find them on Carbatec Sydney website). This might be fabulous for a lot of grunt work.

A google returned no result for the power planer, tho other V machines are stocked.

I should add the 'West System' or 'Boat Coat ' will fill and be strong across a void ,a fairly large void in fact .

Thanks Ian, Ivan, Ern, Bill,

Following your advice, I have just ordered the Veritas large spokeshave, which at 66mm across will cover my 60mm wide laminated ribs.

A bit nervous about the sensitivity of tuning a compass plane, I will try just the spokeshave first. I do not need a perfect finish and can anyway finish with sandpaper. I just need a good way to bevel (while smoothing) the concave face.

I have been using a normal plane to bevel the convex faces; it seems to me you just have to keep using a 'rounding' action as you plane on the convex face. This may not produce the perfect curve needed for furniture but seems to fit the imperfect shape of a 58-year-old hull well enough.

The wood is Celery Top Pine, beautiful stuff. I cut the plies at about 3.5mm thick and there are 12 in a laminated rib, which is 1100mm long.

There are no holes to bridge in the laminations, but on the subject of glue, I am using TechniglueCA, which is the only epoxy glue I have used which comes in a paste or gel form; very handy for certain applications.

Bill, I have used West System a lot and feel I know it well. I like it but it is expensive and has some drawbacks (you know, pumps half filled with air, etc; there's a big thread on this). Is Bote Cote better/worse/easier to mix?

Ivan, thanks for the suggestion for making a wooden circular plane. Because my laminated ribs follow the shape of the existing hull planking I do not have the comfort of even curves, so need to adjust the radius.

All the advice has been immensely helpful; I am very grateful.

Mark

Mark
Bote-Cote is a two part epoxy that has been thickened with cabosil (sp ?) so it doesn't run, flow or drip. You have a 1 hr. working time but it's still very soft 2hr. later. It only needs minium clamping pressure ,you don't want to have a lot of squeeze out .I use it on hard to clamp areas,I push it into place ,make sure it's in position, clean up ,check position again and leave it for 24 hr. It can be coloured with sanding dust. I think West has a similar product .

www.botecote.com.au

Originally Posted by MarkInBoatshed

Ivan, thanks for the suggestion for making a wooden circular plane. Because my laminated ribs follow the shape of the existing hull planking I do not have the comfort of even curves, so need to adjust the radius.

In fact , the task I had to make my plane for was quite similar - long (about 2 m.) curve , 70mm wide and changing it's radius - all you need is the radius of your plane to be smaller than the smallest radius of the curve , just as with spokeshaves , the radius of the tool doesn't have to match exactly that of the piece worked .Anyway , I thing the Veritas tool wil help you with your problem...

...waiting to see some pics