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10th November 2012, 06:19 PM #1
And now for something completely different... A Japanese Push Saw...
A while back there was a brief mention of the ECE frame saw that comes with an optional Japanese tooth pattern blade... Frame Saws, Bow Saws, Turning Saws
After a while, I got to thinking, that this idea was sufficiently intriguing to get one and have a play with it.. well I got two, and gave one away as a present (saves on freight costs )
It arrived a week or so back.. Very nicely made, and pretty good value... The blade is a shade under 25thou in thickness.
Overall the blade is 600mm ( 2ft long ) the whole saw is approx 34"..
A couple of rough cuts, using to cut on the push stroke is not all that much different to cutting on the pull stroke, but since the blade is already in tension
it feels pretty good, and cuts very aggressively...
So, here's two areas for a bit of research..., first, a thin japansese push saw.... second a japanese pull saw blade with much higher tension..
If I get tired of the Japanese experiment, I can just swap the blade...
Regards
Ray
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10th November 2012, 07:03 PM #2
Ray - judging from the marks that seem to be indicating the start of each stroke, it looks like you went about 6mm with each push?
It should be a very useful blade for ripping into softer woods. Are the teeth hardened, & if not, what are your chances of sharpening them by hand??
Cheers,IW
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10th November 2012, 09:18 PM #3
Hi Ian,
The blades are generally non sharpenable, I'm thinking I'll be making up some blades, ( conventional filing )
If I push it a bit I can easily cut 25mm per stroke in softish pine... my limited experience with japanese filing has been better on soft woods rather than harder woods...
Regards
Ray
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10th November 2012, 10:02 PM #4
Hi Ray - not hard to make blades in that size. Old bandsaw blade would make suitable stock - I recently used some 0.5mm thick stuff and it went well once the narrow bit of extra-hard metal was removed. For my small bowsaws (10 inch blades) I have been using scraps of the 0.4mm shim stock I got from you a while back. The blades I made are about 4 to 4.5 mm wide. It was easier than I anticipated, and at 15-16 tpi they cut very nicely indeed in stock up to 30mm thick. They also fit perfectly in the kerf of my nice little dovetail saw, made from the same material, and will turn enough to chop most of the waste from all but the smallest dovetail space, so I am very pleased with them!
I think your experience reflects the general consensus. Those long, pointy teeth will tear through softer woods like steam, but just don't like being pushed through our hard, silicous woods. One of these days I must try and make some of those complex fangs on a (small!) saw, just for the challenge.
Cheers,IW
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11th November 2012, 09:49 AM #5Senior Member
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for the type of saw Ray appears to have there, bandsaw blades are generally too narrow i would think, doesnt mean you couldn't use them but you would be changing it to suit another purpose, at the moment it looks like a continental frame saw and about an inch is as narrow as you would go for that saw (dont see em much now but up to 3 inch is also ok). using a bandsaws' blade under an inch , and some are down to say 1/4 is changing it to more toward a turning saw and more difficult to cut straight when you want to
cheers
chippy
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11th November 2012, 11:25 AM #6
Nobex mitre saw blades might be the perfect thing for reworking. The teeth are hardened but the blades must be 30 - 40 mm wide and I think they come in 600mm. I'm sure there would be framers with blunt ones they'd be happy to give up.
Cheers
Matt...I'll just make the other bits smaller.
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