Thread: Convert marking gauge to veneer slicer

Hmm, 'tis a bit off, isn't it? Looks like some clown broached the blade slot back to front, so the incline is on the stock side instead of the other way. I would probably have straightened the existing slot back, & eased an incline on the other side where it ought to be, & make a bigger wedge. If you use a thicker blade, such as an old jigsaw blade, for your slitter, you may not need a new wedge. There are a few ways to hold a cutter, but re-making the wedge slot is the simplest option I can think of on the spur of the moment.

Cheers,

Square up the existing slot and drill and tap, from the end of the beam, for a retaining screw.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

Square up the existing slot and drill and tap, from the end of the beam, for a retaining screw.

Yep, there is plenty of meat between the slot & the end of the beam, so if you've got the gear to drill & tap, it might work. But be aware that most woods don't like being tapped into end grain, & even if you manage to get a useable thread, it will be weak, so treat it kindly.

A more elegant solution would be to insert a brass dowel across the beam and tap that for a retaining screw, something like this:

DF mortise g.jpg

It's not that difficult to do, but does need a bit of care to keep everything centred.

Cheers,

Or use the slitter on a Stanley combination plane. I think they are designed for cutting veneers.

Hi Dengy

I would cut a slot at the front of the arm - like a mortice - wide enough for a blade. You can get the blades from LN or you can use one from a cheap knife set or you can make your own.

Here is one of my cutting gauges that I modified for stringing. I have another with a cutting knife. Same principal (just do not have a photo).



Here's one a friend did ...



Regards from Perth

Derek