Thread: Anyone converted a hand-saw to a pull-saw?

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Having tried a few japanese saws, I've found it's much easier to get accurate cuts with a pull-saw than a western style "push" saw. To me it seems that pushing is faster but pulling is more accurate.

The last week or two I tried reversing all my hacksaw blades and found it to hold true there, too. Now I'm wondering whether anyone has tried handling a normal hand-saw backwards and converting it to a pull-saw? I'm tempted to try it for myself, but mine are all heirloom stuff and I'd never be forgiven if I butchered one.

I've always used a hacksaw that way. I was told by a metalworker that is was the best way and you get a neater and easier start. I made a pruning saw into a pull saw.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

...Now I'm wondering whether anyone has tried handling a normal hand-saw backwards and converting it to a pull-saw? I'm tempted to try it for myself, but mine are all heirloom stuff and I'd never be forgiven if I butchered one.

An alternative to a real conversion is via filing the saw "peg toothed." An easy way to approximate a peg toothed saw is to file an equal amount of rake on each side of the tooth. This makes each side 30 degrees. Easily accomplished by just making sure the top of the traingular saw file is level as the sides are 30 degrees to each other.

And use a 45 degree fleam angle. This enables a western-style handsaw to cut on both the push and pull with great ease.

The problem you will run into is the need to touch up the sharpening more often as a western saw is made from softer steel than a Japanese saw.

But the filing is easy. Sawing is accomplished by easing the weight on the forward stroke and allowing the saw to have its full weight on the pull.

The above is for a pull cross cut.

For a pull rip, one needs to think about negative rake...which the amount is determined by the type of wood being sawn...

Take care, Mike